Silferme

Rear.

I got a pair but not for sale

Brilliant! I'd love to be part of something similar but I doubt it would ever happen in Copenhagen though. That's how the traffic looks every day here

You are braver than me for sure then. After my last chainsnap I've learned to minimize the risks which most likely kill me

Well I wouldn't dare to ride with the chain hanging like that (checked on the video too) I'd advice you to consider a chain tensioner before it jumps.

Is it just me or is your chain really loose? But looking good anyway.

That spacer is just a piece of plastic around 2-3mm thick. Just use large screwdriver to pry it apart.

I wouldn't be ordering the part until I get home anyway but why not make a mobile friendly version of the shop so others can use it too and not only the technically handicapped who wish to spend too much money because of group pressure

Timing is the key. When you are charging for the jump you tense your fingers on the brake aswell. But I'm sure other more experienced people can give a better explanation.

The reason for those red details is the HS33 which happens to be the nice older version. Especially when you get one for free you don't complain but change the bike to fit the colour instead

Neon green rimtapes and you are set! Looking good.

That was actually quite damn impressive what momentum you gain with that stick. I wouldn't say no if someone asked me to try it

Thanks It's a completely different ride with new stem and brakes.

Just a crappy picture taken with my phone after today's ride. I'll add specs later if someone is actually interested

If the Fourplay is fully functional then you really should go for it (or I will!)

Ofcourse the simplest thing is to count the spokes but now we are only talking about a difference of one spoke (9 instead of 8). If I was buying a Chris King hub I doubtfully would be relying on my eyes on a half decent picture. I don't know anything about that specific hub so I was wondering that maybe I was missing something here. (I'm assuming that you are buying the hub or the complete bike so you can strip it)

Just for interest, how do you know that? It's been sold at 36h as well.

blue loctite

You can always try fitting spacers and only using half of the surface if the pads but I quite sure that it's not optimal. A friend of mine had the same problem with magura louises and logically it was only 50% of the braking power so he ended up updating the rotor to 180mm after few weeks of frustration.

Yes, but you got chance to do the small adjustments by rotating the bars what you can't do when running normal bars. Well, at least not as "much" as with high rise ones

So when you have V's on the bike, suddenly the frame gets stronger? The frame flexes more due HS33's are stronger than those flimsy V's. Use some more muscle when using the V's and suddenly the frame is flexing more too. Oh, hold on! That does mean that the original V's are as good as HS33's but only if you use some more strength! But then again, I'd rather have brakes which doesn't require me to have cat-like reactions combined with daily finger strength exercises. I've ridden both of those and you can't compare the V's to the HS33 on the same day. I'm sure you have too, considering your strong opinion about this. I'm not debating about the strength of Zoot's frame as we all know that it is not the strongest there is, I'm debating about the sudden stiffness gained only by using V's instead of HS33's.

It surely is but the flex is the same on both HS33s and Vees.

Your mate's Zoot must have been made of cooked spaghetti . It must have been flexing as much with the V's then aswell?

Or just simply buy the Evo II adaptors and HS33s. It is a bitch to setup properly but it is possible.

I highly doubt that you can use the same spokes as we are talking about millimeters here. Contact Tarty and tell them which hub and rim you are using and they'll send you the right spokes, simple as that.