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ooo

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Posts posted by ooo

  1. yeah its easy don't worry about it, if the disk is at an angle and you just drag lightly it won't cut through. How harsh your grind is sort of depends on technique like how fast you move the grind disk but also the thickness of the disk. Generall a thicker (grinding) disk will give a deeper harsher grind where as a thin cutting disk will leave a shallower grind, thin cutting discs remove less material from the rim. Different pads / rim combinations and weather conditions need different types of grind but just experiment, and follow the TNN and tarty guides, don't run back and forth it just removes more material.  Usually tarty says on their site what sort of grind you want. Also wear protective gear if you are going to be sketchy.

  2. ADM pads are great but are more suited to riding in wet weather (I use them but I ride in the rain a lot), if you ride dry weather only there are better pads.

    Those trialtech forks are a real popular choice so there must be something good. I like a longer lower feel, I'm considering the new hashtagg stem at the moment. I see you ride normal bar angle as well, so you may need the extra length? You are pretty tall so you may need stackers and a long stem ??

    also echo make a 158mm by 30 stem which may be good to look at

  3. yeah what isitafox said, 2mm of flex is normal and should affect the brake. But if you weigh a normal amount the brake shouldn't slip under any condition except coming up short of a corner, theres just too much leverage there. If it is slipping otherwise then thats a problem.

    IMO Heatsink yellows are great pads for summer, but they don't work well in the winter or in the wet, TNN ADMs work real good when wet.

  4. Is that 5mm of frame flex? Other than trying another booster (or frame), I'm not sure. The trialtechs are pretty good, I use a carbon one (the newer one) its very good and I have used a 4 bolt before but I can't compare them so not sure which works out stiffer. I think some of my flex is taken by my rim too, so if you have a very tough rim compared to frame it might look more flexy.... ???

    Is the rest of the brake setup okay ? does it feel okay to ride ? 2 or 4 finger lever ?

  5. 32 minutes ago, Dman said:

    I can have run split links in old's for ages with no problems, must be as strong?

    Also I have used the odyssey chains (Bluebird) for years which is a KMC 510HX in black, I'm sure if odyssey replaced that they will have made it way better and that is a decent chain for trials already. But to be fair i haven't seen the price of the key chain....

  6. odyssey make well nice gear. I'd trust that chain, they reckon its stronger than a normal chain, but I guess theres one way to find out.

    But if i understand correctly you have to use the master link, you can't reinsert any of the riveted pins with a chain tool ??? 

  7. 36 minutes ago, Daviesdt said:

    Right o, thanks. My thinking was drill core skills first to get solid grounding in basics. Been getting hung up on it though, want to move on but back wheel balance sucks and its affecting pedal hop control.

    back wheel balance is important, but its not a focal point like in pure riding, the bike geo is very different and even theough the moves are very similar you need to have a slightly more two wheeled mind set to progress. Focus on your bunny hop and adding pedal strokes to it too to make pedal punches and pedal kicks stuff like zap taps, bunny ups. Back wheel control on your bike will be easier if you learn to wheelie

    I.e. side hop like this, combine a sideways bunny hop with a pedal punch.

    This a perfect example how to use wheelies and bunny hops to ride trial on a low bb bike:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHsWtbdaXiQ

    • Like 1
  8. 54 minutes ago, Daviesdt said:

    One thing for me though that would mind an answer on, when i back wheel hop ive found it easier to keep arms straight, lean back and then adjust weight purely through hip position, that sound about right?

    I think when I rode an inspired I had to do something similar, but I didn't progress much as I prefer static riding. With inspired you are better off working on bunny hop based moves and rolling moves, if you do use the rear wheel don't stay on it long enough to hop keep moving. think James Barton / Ali c etc. If you spend you time trying to do static side hops and stuff, it'll be harder to progress.

    • Like 1
  9. a tip that helped me when practicing back hops was: Back hops are used to correct your balance when you start to fall, in an ideal world you would be able to balance on the back wheel without hops. You'll get more balanced if you try not to hop, but instead balance and then just use them when you feel like you are going to fall. Hops will tire you out quick, so just use them to correct position or balance.

    • Like 1
  10. There are many ways to do stuff. But short answer is to raise the front and lock the rear brake, then do a few rear hops to stay balanced then pedal kick. So you'll need to be able to do rear wheel hops first. The easy way to learn pedal kicks is this:

    When you start don't jump just do a sort of static one footed wheelie,

    lower the front of the bike slightly by crouching backward into a manual position (not by leaning forward).

    Then release the brake just enough for the wheel to slip and gently push the pedal until you are stood up again (the wheel doesn't leave the ground it just wheels along) and squeeze the brake again when you are stood up.

    Once you have that balanced, you will feel where you can jump and you can do small pedal kicks flat and up stuff.

    Rear wheel hops https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRgqaj-BUzg

    As Davies says trashzen is very good: http://www.trashzen.com/  and the rushway site had very clear videos, in left and right foot but its in french

    Rush way http://www.rushway.fr/index.php/technique/#.VoEJC2RuT5s

     

     

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