Aii_Aitch
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Posts posted by Aii_Aitch
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ah, didn't work then.
new pads it is.
my rotor should be fine as long as i clean it with muc-off or meths, right?
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okay, and how long will it take to bed in the pads? couple hours?
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can you oven the disc as well, or would it be better to clean the disc with meths?
I take it muc off stuff is just another agent that does the same thing?
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all the parts for my new build.
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Oh, and if anyone has an M5 helicoil kit i can borrow or buy, then please could they bring that.
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cool, thanks guys.
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are the threads m5 or 6?
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one of my threads just died because i'm a pillock and decided to tighten my clamps way too tight.
how do i fix it? what will i need?
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i'll be there. finished my build about an hour ago so i'll be fiddling around all day probably. i'll be late, so i'll ring chris or ryan when i arrive.
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Sorted. For anyone reading this in the future: I took out the pin on the calliper and took out the pads and spring from the opening on the opposite side. Then pushed on both of the pistons with a flat-headed screwdriver. The pads go back in a lot easier than when you're taking them out as there's more room. Disc fit between the pads and i squeezed on the lever 3 or 4 times until they got used to where the disc was. Then just a case of aligning the calliper so the pads don't rub. If you have a new disc that looks like it wobbles, it's probably because it's not tight enough on the hub.
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Pull the brake a few times to reset the pads into their desired position. The use washers to space the caliper away / towards the fork leg depending on which side it rubs on.
What I mean to say is that there's no space on either side of the disc. I think I'll need to take out the pads, but I'm not sure how to?
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What I used to do is just try not to hit the rim and otherwise not worry about pressure. Was around 20psi on a mod rear wheel. I'm same height and 11st if that helps...
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Take pads out, use large flathead screwdriver or something to prise the pistons apart. I've found that it's better if you do this when the bike is upright, i guess because the master cylinder is then at the top. Put the pads and everything back in, put wheel in and pull the brake a couple times to reset the pads.
Get a small flat head screwdriver and see if you can lever them back at all. Might well be the levers been pressed in with the rotor/wheel out and they just need pushing back.
I've prised them apart with the pads in because i'm not sure how to take them out
Now I can get the rotor in and spin the wheel, but it still rubs and if I try to spin the wheel freely it does 4 or 5 rotations before it stops. any more advice?
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Just bought a new rotor to fit my front mono mini (i've never used it before, but it's second hand).
Once I had it bolted onto my front wheel, I tried to put it through the pads on the calliper and it won't fit.
I know how to align the brake, etc. but the space between the pads seems to be 2mm too thin for the rotor to slot into it. The lever has no adjustment screws/knobs/whatevers, so I'm stumped as to what to do.
Can anybody help?
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Work out where you need to shorten it to, use the chain tool there. Don't push the pin all the way out, try to leave it enough in so the link is held together, that makes it a lot easier.
Ta poppet <3
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How do I shorten my chain?
Just unboxed my KMC Z610.
I have a chain tool, but is there a special way of doing it, before i just go and burn my tenner?
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Shouldn't take them long to restock, i wouldn't've thought. depends how urgently you need it doing
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usually it's more street orientated riders that use vee-brakes.
Obviously there're also disc brakes. As a guideline, you don't want a cable-operated disc on rear because of the friction between the cable and its casing. But the BB7 up front is very bite-y and it holds strong.
Basically, only mod riders (20") have dual discs.
Discs aren't necessarily better than Vees or Maggies.
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Most people in trials use hydraulic rim brakes, but some top-end bikes still come with vee-brake attachments, so it's all up to personal preference.
I'd say Maggies (hydro rim brakes).
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That kit looks a bit dodgy to me.
Why not just buy these: 2 syringes, 2 hoses and 100ml of royal blood? You get more fluid and it's cheaper overall.
EDIT: The other kit is 21p cheaper, with half the fluid.
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"Righty loosey, lefty tightey"? I guess it makes sense.
I can't do anything until tomorrow anyway because without getting it perfect when I take off my wheel, it'll only touch the pads again.
But thanks
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I was expecting an answer like that.
Okay, I'll get to it.
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So I have the spoke key, and i've given it a few goes but I just can't get it 100% right.
I seem to get half way through truing and forget which way I should turn the key, so if anyone has any handy rhyme or something...
Also, once it's all trued, how do I then get the same tension in all of the spokes, or should they all even out?
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As judgement on whether you can trust a seller or not, if they've been around for a couple of hundred posts then they will have feedback on their profile. Some people also leave text as to how the seller treated them, etc.
If you open my profile page, you'll see on the right-hand side that my feedback is 2 positive (and under it says neutral). But it doesn't mean that someone hasn't gone bad, it's just an indication as to whether they are legit or not.
Which Bike Will Be Better For Beginner
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
zoot all the way!