ClarkeHutchison
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Posts posted by ClarkeHutchison
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Looks great! Dunno about the half and half rim tape though.
What made you mod the tyres?
I was waiting on parts, so I was bored and curious of how much weight it actually saves.
@niconj I'll try what you said and yes the bearings were running smooth. Also i am hoping to get a splitter on the front brake at some point.
cant be that, a weight weenie wouldn't buy a kaiser in the fist place. most likley because of the extra bounce
The bounce is another reason, but saving weight, while not hampering performance is a no brainer
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Cheers for the comments, it's my first build thread (hopefully of many), as I love building up bikes from nothing.
My front wheel hub is still very stiff when the bolts are tightened, I tried putting a spacer inside the hub stops so that the bearings were sitting better but it didn't help at all. I'm starting to think the axle may be slightly bent.
Any suggestions are welcome?
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Bike built up and ready to ride.
Featuring some funky rim tape
Thanks to all the sellers who I bought parts off, all very helpful, except from a certain bloke who i wont name............. Gary Sanderson)
SPEC :
Frame and Forks
- Frame: Rockman Aurem 4
- Forks: Trialtech Sport Light HS33
Wheels
- Front Hub: Trialtech Proto Unbranded (Ti Bolts)
- Rear Hub: Echo TR 135 (Ti Bolts)
- Front Rim: Trialtech Sport Light
- Rear Rim: Trialtech Sport Light
- Front Spokes: Sapim Race
- Rear Spokes: Sapim Race
- Front Nipples: Sapim
- Rear Nipples: VIZ Alloy
- Front Innertube: Maxxis Welterweight
- Rear Innertube: Kenda XL
- Front Tyre: Continental Mountain King 2.2
- Rear Tyre: Continental Der Kaiser 2.5
Brakes
- Front Brake: Magura HS11 2011 (4 finger lever + Trialtech Splitter)
- Rear Brake: Magura HS11 2011 (4 finger lever)
- Front Pads: TNN LGM Green
- Rear Pads: TNN ADM
- Front Clamps: Magura (Ti Bolts)
- Rear Clamps: Magura (Ti Bolts)
- Slaves- Magura 05 (Rawed)
Drivetrain
- Cranks: Try-All ISIS 175
- Freewheel: Echo SL 108
- Chain Tensioner: Echo Smooth Snail Cams
- Rear Sprocket: Echo TR (15t)
- Pedals: Echo TR Platform
- Bottom Bracket: Trialtech Sport Light ISIS
- Bashring: Try-All Symetrik
Steering
- Handlebar: Trialtech SL Carbon
- Stem: Try-All 3D 150x30
- Headset: Echo SL
- Grips: Trialtech Foam
Geometry:
- Wheelbase: 1100mm
- Chainstay length: 380mm
- BB Rise: 70mm
- Head angle: 71°
- Reach : 660mm
Weight
- 9.24 kg
Edit: Rims have now been grinded.
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Is this serious -
Had this problem with my trialtech hub. The axle stops were too close so that the bearings couldn't touch them. As soon as I tightened the wheel, they were deformed in direction of the axle stop and the wheel didn't spin freely anymore. I had to get the bearings out and put 2 0.2mm washers on each axle stop so that the bearing was seated correctly. Spins fin now no matter how tight I tighten the bolts.
I'll give that a try, Thanks
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please, please dont grind the rims
Unfortunately I will be grinding them, will still look good as not as easy to notice as when black rims are ground.
Axle could be very slightly bent dude, it only has to be microns out due to the tolerances involved with bearing. Either that or the bearing isn't seated in the hub body properly, and may need a light crack with a socket and a dead blow hammer to seat it properly. That's how I do mine, never failed me yet
I've tried shocking the bearings into place with a hammer and it didn't help at all.
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Another delivery, this time a box from tarty.
Inside: Trialtech sport light rear rim to match front, Sapim Race spokes, Spoke tensioner (found out it didn't fit nipples very well) and VIZ alloy nipples in blue. I am building the rim onto my echo TR hub which I bought from Neil Tunnicliffe (great seller).
I used the lacing pattern 3 cross and just used a standard flat head screwdriver, it was a smull stumpy one and worked really well.
I painted one side of screwdriver white so I could count how many turns i put on each nipple, so to reduce the chance of a buckle when finished.
Process:
First spokes in driveside
Driveside finished
Followed the same pattern for the non-drive side.
Complete but not tensioned. At this point I put grease on each spokes thread, was easier than applying at the start and less messy.
With tube/Der Kaiser (Spokes look a bit twisted there but pulled straight after some more tension).
Rear and front wheel complete. I'm happy with the silver rims, but at some point i will get some black spoke and blue nipples for the front.
Sorry for the poor quality picture it was chucking it down.
I don't have a trueing stand so I have my own weird way of doing it. I held the yellow crayon (from a repair kit) tight agaisnt the brake booster and then spun the wheel quickly, It then leaves a mark on the tyre where the buckles are (i really should of held it agaisnt the rim to get it more accurate, but it worked well anyway).
In this case i loosened the spokes around the yellow mark and now my wheel is about 95% true,(I can never get it perfect). Chainline is also spot on
I will get more pictures up tommorow of bike fully built after i get brakes set and other small fix ups are finished.
I've got another question for members on here, My front wheel does not spin smoothly.
My front hub uses small washers inside the forks and agaisnt the hub, they have a small lip around the centre hole.
Off the bike the wheel spins very freely and smooth, but when i tighten the wheel on the forks, the wheel is very stiff. I thought it was the washer squezed up agaisnt the edge of the hub preventing it from turning smoothly. I tried putting a small washer inbetween (see picture) so it wasn't touching hub but it's still just as stiff as before.
Maybe my bearings are knackered, but they are almost new.
Does anyone have any idea of whats going on and how i could fix it?
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Thanks for the comments, wheel has been built using grease on threads as suggested and got it about 95% true
Pictures to follow
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why did you change the adm's on the back?
The ADMs were always for the rear brake.
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Thanks for comments, it's taking me a fair time to build it due to work, football commitments and the Gary Sanderson dispute. I can't wait to get out riding on it.
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Welcome
This site is great for information as well as tutorials etc. http://www.trashzen.com/
I'm sure there will be others living near you that would help you out.
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Well 2 months after paying Gary Sanderson for a wheel that failed to arrive and he has still failed to refund me, i bought a front wheel from Chris H on here, which arrived within a few days, great member and great price for the wheel.
(If anyone is wanting an echo TR front disc hub, New condition, let me know)
It's a Trialtech Sport Light rim built on a prototype trialtech hub (think it's the sport lite hub). New condition, 890g.
I quite liked the blue rim tape, but I decided on white for now.
Titanium Bolts with Echo SL axle washer.
I am going for silver front+Rear Trialtech sport light rims because I have heard good things about them and I have always trusted Trialtech with quality parts. They are lightweight, look good (with a grind compared to black rims) and also should hold grinds well.
Setting brake:
Perfect
Just waiting on Rear rim, Spokes and nipples from Tarty so i can build it up onto my Echo TR hub.
Also when your building up a wheel do you put grease on each individual nipple or is this not needed?
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Two riders I know cracked these frames in a very odd place..
Right where the seat-stays meet the top tube right in the middle above that weld.
Strange place for a crack, you would think there wouldn't be much stress there.
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I loved mine, one of the frames i improved most on. It's very solid and won't crack/snap unless you are very rough. Its also reasonably lightweight and looks great.
The only reason i got rid of it (sold for £85 in 2012) was that I got a 24".
Picture of mine built up :
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Yeh I went for a ride and although it held fine I decided to just use the rear brake.
I actually feel like my hooking technique improved after being limited to just the rear brake.
Also 05 hs33 lever body ordered, I will just need to raw it so it matches the other one
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I fixed it for now, lack of strong materials though
..... good old cable ties always do the trick.
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My first thought to any broken part
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1
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For the sake of waiting two days I wouldn't even risk that. What of it snaps mid gap and you f**k up your landing and really hurt yourself. Not even worth it.
It snapped when landing a gap to front and the brake held fine, the annoying thing is the lever is moving all over the place, so I suppose I could easily miss the lever mid gap and have a nasty fall.
I will only ride it if I can modify it so it feels a lot sturdier.
Also what lever replacement would people recomend? I was thinking about the racing line CNC body but it's pretty expensive.
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Don't have aluminium straps but could try and get a hold of some, or make some.If you have the material you could bodge up a ally strap coming off of the lever clamp bolt, will look hideous but should hold it if it's thick enough sheet.
It's just a short term plan so dosen't matter what it looks like. Thanks for your help.
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Tonight i was out riding and cracked my lever body, i know i should have modified it better to prevent this in the first place.
I was just wondering if anyone has ever done a quick fix on this temporarily , I am hoping to use it for just a couple of days before getting a replacement.
It is on the bottom side of body and is cracked right through, so the lever is wobbling all over the place, but brake is still working. I know this might be a stupid idea that could lead to an accident, but i'm desperate to get riding again...... ANY IDEAS..
Thanks
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Sell them to me
Nah I'll be keeping them haha
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Trialtech only recalled the HS33 version:
http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/news/trialtech_fork_product_recall/u248.html
Oh I'm worrying now, I've got some HS33 version forks on my new stock build.
Where's the most likely place for them to snap/crack? So I can keep an eye on them.
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Great spec, but I honestly don't like all the red
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Wrong forum your looking for Trials Central. This is the cycle trials forum
I have a gas gas txt pro 250 2010 and I use Putoline TT synthetic 2 stroke oil with a 70:1 ratio. It works well for me.
Rockman Aurem 4 Stock - Build Thread
in Bike Pictures
Posted
Bike is now for sale, have a look if your interested: http://tinyurl.com/o9jpe5e