Clerictgm mk2

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyperbole

Whats wrong, kek? If I have what I like why to try something that maybe good maybe not. Bite and hold are already rim brake like, plus it don't make this annoying sound and have really good modulation. What else do you need from trials brake? And I'll rather try Saints, because billions of trials riders ready to die for the SAINTS and WORSHIP it every day? I may try TZ but if calipers would be sold separately, because I already have so much Hope stuff I need a freakin warehouse.

V4 has enough power and awesome modulation, I don't need anything else. BB7 lever feels like shit for me. Even with linear cables. So I never ever would use mechanics and cheap hydraulics. I see no sense in trying trialzones, I would choose between V4 or Saints.

I heard it alot of times. But now V4 with standard pads working great for me. Deadly lock and sharp bite.

Setting up is a process of setting up, not choosing rotor/etc. BB 7 are good if you don't have much money Otherwise I don't see a reason to run them. Hope/Saints/or some cutoms FТW.

Don't lie. I do not pretend on an absolute truth. Just like to sort out what I'm interested in. And also learn to read, I'm saying that MY SETUP is BULLSHIT. Turn your logic on, this is != BB7 is BULLSHIT. And yes, this is just my opinion. For me now Hope V4 Tech 3@203 Hope Mono6 SAW is the best brake ever. I'll try Saints later and maybe my opinion will change. But I personally hardly dislike mech brakes after trying Deores and Hopes. >not able to set it up right. Make me laugh. Are you serious? Only retard can't set mech brakes. Don't say it like it something hard and like you need skill to do it never. You'll be disgraced and ridiculed in eyes of cyclists of any kind. Problem is in pads/rotor combination. Echo TR seems to be shitty rotors. Because with roundagon my BB5 worked awesome.

Hmmmm.. For me thick grips = slow and painful torture. The thinner grips are the better. I can ride for hours every day without gloves and alright.

Can't resist: Brake slips every ride and has absolutely no bite. Works better in the wet, yup. Better modulation than rim brakes, yup, cap. No need to grind rims, yup, cap. A bent rim does not interfere with your brakes, yup, cap. Considerably cheaper than hydraulic brakes (disc or rim), nope, I bought my set for 160 EUR, could buy deores or something even better instead. Nokon/Ultimate setup may cost like a pair of a top shiny new Hopes. Very easy to maintain with simple tools and no mess.. hmm Good hydro brakes with well available parts are too very easy to maintain if you are not a retard. What about magura/echo's - can't imagine simpler construction than that. Once set up correctly the brake stays put and requires no maintenance, also like a good hydro. Pad wear adjustment dial makes it really easy to compensate for pad wear, takes 2 seconds and no tools. With hydro brakes it takes NOTHING to do. You just do nothing and pads adjusting magically by themselves. Spares readily available, like with good hydro brakes. Spares are not a rip-off, yup. But you don't need Hope spares so often if you cleaning/oiling pistons and rebleeding it at least once a 3 years. No more overpriced Magura HS-33 CNC backing pads. This is true, maggie pads are crazy overpriced. Polyurethane FТW. Avid mech disc brakes spares are much cheaper than hydraulic brake spares. Repeating yourself. Most parts serviceable with just an Allen key, perfect for in-field servicing. Hmm. With good hydro brakes you don't need this "in-field servicing". What can happen? Teared up braided hose? No. No need to bleed brakes. Changing a cable takes just a couple of minutes and can be done anywhere using an Allen key. Bleeding brakes, however, is the sort of thing you need to plan ahead for. Rebleeding hydros is too just a couple of minutes. No need to buy hydraulic fluid, which tends to be overpriced e.g. Magura Royal Blood. No it's not overpriced if you have a brain and it's working. For oil there are a bunch of analogs (fork/transmission oils) that even better. You can even use Antifreeze. What about DOT - it's cheap as hell. Harder to damage (e.g. no snapped hoses). Have you seen snapped braided hose or damaged Hope caliper or lever that rather snap some part of you? Avid levers feature a "bend zone" which means if you knock the lever blade it will bend rather than snap (I had a crash a while ago and it worked, all I had to do is bend the thing back by hand). Re-read previous statement. No oil leaks (unlike some Maguras when running a water bleed). Good discs hydros also has no oil leaks, because they has no oil, lol. Those who has also has no leaks. Saints are pretty leakproof, for example. Avid CPS design means the pads always sit perfectly square to the rotors, no shims required unlike with Hope brakes, and certainly a lot easier to set up than HS-33s which are a royal PITA with those plastic rings that get deformed once you tighten the mounting bolts. I don't need any shims while setting my hope brake. It's even easier to set than bb7. Pull the lever - tight up bolts and it's done. No frame flex issues, no brake boosters needed. Maggie doesn't necessarily needs a booster. Rim brake pads need to be of softer compounds to guarantee suitable braking performance, but soft pad material wears down fast. Disc brake pads last much longer. Lulwut? TNNs lives for freaking ever. It takes really long until they wear down. Soft pad compounds make brakes feel mushy, while my rear BB7 feels stiffer than any front HS33 I've ever used. This is true but only for really soft pads. TNNs are not soft pads. Metal backing rim pads improve performance but cost an outrageous £30 here in China, whereas I can get a whole brand-new BB7 **with** pads for just £32. Okay. My set-up is as follows: Lever: Avid FR5 Calliper: Avid BB7 Cable: ECLAT CORE Linear (linear cable). Echo TR 180 Rotors

Also saints has 15 and 17mm pistons, so it's weaker than V4 by this logic. Lever is also must be included in calculations. It seems that saints has longer level, but to compensate it longer travel they using this fancy "servowave", so you get power and good feel of the lever. I don't understand only one thing, servowave must be must have for trials, but why people need it in other disciplines? And why they need this maggie level bite and hold? FamilyBiker You're right, but it doesn't mean you can't compare 2 brakes in similar lab conditions and find out what's better in concrete parameters.

This is not my topic, kek.

Go f**k yourself, kid. >topics that's been discussed again and again at least forum is not so dead. And this topics appears without me regularly anyway.

Nope. Pads square(to be more accurate - contact area) must be included in calculations, because constant of friction includes square of contacting surfaces.

Just stop whining. I can't ride until next season. So you can enjoy my society for next few months or leave TF.

Of course there are no best brakes in terms of personal preference. But using scientific approach we may find out which brake/pads/rotors/levers combination has: 1) best hold 2) best bite 3) best resistance to overheating (not actual for trials) etc.

If saints are so crazy powerful tartys should invalidate warranty on frames and forks of those who using them

Now find a concrete review about CrMo 4130(or what arcade made from) vs 7005-T6. And plus info about weld strenght on both materials. And all this in terms of riding STREET-TRIALS.

In frames and forks. Ozonys and other second-rate companies are just copying the Inspired move to steel. But if we compare the best AL frame and the best steel frame. What would be the difference? I assume that steel is 1) better for spins(180/360/+++) in terms of reliability. 2) feels not so hard, has a little bit of springiness. 3) can be re-welded without re-heat treatment. 4) looks more elegant ... ??? And why steel frames so rare nowadays in bikes industry? In pure trials there are absolutely no serial steel frames.

But if V2 can stop fast this thing from 170km/h and reliable enough to be a dragracing brake I don't get how Hope brakes may be not one of the best brakes ever. And Saints are DH brakes, usage brakes in DH is completely different to a trials though, isn't it? Well, anyway I'll try all this brakes. One more question about M810/20 they are close hydraulic system?

Think... physics...

168 km/h

I still don't get how HOPE brakes may be "not so good, overhyped, etc."

So what's the difference?

or V2 which is the same.

Thanks for detailed reply. Mark using E4 or V4? And with 183 or 203 rotors? My expirience now is this - in ascending order braking quality : 1) cheap vees and cheap disc shimano mech brakes 2) avid juicy three - shitty brake that even can't stop wheel at snow in some situations 3) set of BB7 with echo TR rotors, shitty brakes (not BB7 but my setup) 4) Deore Vees + TNN pads + fresh grind + linear cable - pretty good brake but vees are shit because they always upsetting and you need to reset pads distance and keep your rims in ideal state. 5) ECHO TR 08 brake - works awesome but leaks like a bitch. Hydro brakes always > than mechs. And it is said by me - fan of mech brakes(in past). And also here a BB5 + avid rotors (roundagon 180 as far as I remember) awesome on/off brake, good hold but bad modulation. 6)Hope M4 Tech 2 Evo with 203 203 Hope Mono6 Saw rotors. 7)Hope V4 Tech 3 with 203 Hope Mono6 Saw rotors. (more power + lever is more comfy, and of course they are looks awesome) By forum replies it seems that TrialZone is worst than Hope 4-pot brakes so I don't even want to buy them. The last question for me is SAINTS. It seems that I'll have to try both M810 and M820 despite of M810 are really crazy hard to find.

But you didn't tryed hope V4 Tech 3. So what to argue about? Also the fact you riding better than me doesn't overlap the fact your riding is not so abusive to brakes. Not a single BH gap to rear or huge dropgap. Let's end this stupid kiddish arguing. I by myself will buy and try all this fu☾├<ing brakes. Why are you riding with rear brake only? How it feels compared to both brakes on riding?