BJ.
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Posts posted by BJ.
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Solar PV isn't worth getting ATM unless you're going for a battery storage system too. If you go down this route look into Therm IQ infrared heating panels too, they only draw about 400w.
Also have a look into Micro CHP (Combined Heat & Power) Boilers. I assessed an old Victorian solid brick built property about 6 week ago and the property gained an A Rating in its Energy Performance Assessment which was achieved mainly by the boiler.
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Sounds like it needs more cable tension.
How close does the mech cage sit to the chainrings in first and third? upload a photo in first and first and third and what ever your highest gear is. -
I don't think you'll get the spokes through with the sprocket still attached. Trying getting some heat into it and trying unscrewing again. It may need two of you to try and crack it free.
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3 hours ago, forteh said:
It's physically impossible to check a fork and shock for cavitation
It really isn't I do it on a daily basis.
Also you should check to see if the CSU is clicking
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Check the fork and shock for cavitation
check the pivot bearings and check the drivetrain for wear
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Hi. The issues you're having is definitely cable related.
The barrel adjuster on top of the carb when wound out would put tension on the inner cable and when wound in release tension which would close the carb.
It seems like you've just cut the cable too short.
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I've got a mate that imports cars and parts from Japan. Check out Gorrilla Imports on Facebook. He had a GS300 not so long ago.
I've also got a mate with a Toyota Soarer up for sale which may be of interest to you.
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2 hours ago, Greetings said:
It's exactly the opposite. In trials the rear brake stops the wheel from rolling backwards. Therefore having a brake mounted underneath makes it act like a wedge. It's exactly the same story with forks having brake mounts on the back, where you're stopping the front wheel from rotating forward.
The wheel spins forwards? The only time this is ever going to be of any benefit it if you're landing in the rear wheel from something like a rolling gap and when your rear wheel hits the landing the bike would have to be past vertical.
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The rear brake mount position isn't ideal in my opinion. That'll flex away from the frame under braking putting a huge amount of stress on the mounts as well as not feeling as positive as it would have been if it was mounted the usual way.
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Just ride it. If it comes loose send it back for a warranty claim.
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From the top of my head I'm pretty sure it's 45 x 45
if you're struggling sourcing them give me a message and I'll pop you some in the post they're £6 each plus postage.
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1 hour ago, SamKidney said:
Is it the 1.6 HDi or 1.9 DW8 lump?
If it's the HDI it can either be the ECU itself or the clocks de-solder themselves. They're a worst case scenario...
Check continuity through both the VSS plug on the loom to the relative terminals at the other end, and that the sensor earth wire is grounding properly too.
Other option would be to try another set of clocks to see what result you get if you can. Rules one more option out.
It's he 1.6 HDI.
If it was the ECU would the management light not flag up or at least the diagnostics not show something?
Im struggling finding a wiring diagram to be honest so I feel like my hands are tied.
also I don't think it's the clocks because when you turn on the ignition they all move and do a little test and all seems to be fine.
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So after trying the Berlingo forum and having no joy I thought it's worth a punt at testing the knowledge of fellow trials enthusiasts.
I've recently purchased a Citroen Berlingo with a faulty speedometer and it's really starting to get on my last nerve.
Symptoms are: Clocks won't register any speed or milage. The speedo moves when the ignition is turned on and does a little test but when driving just sits at 0mph
So far I have located the speedo drive sensor and replaced it for a new one (although the box was damaged and it was the last in stock from Euro so maywell have been a duff one) and still not had any luck.
I took the car to an auto electrician who plugged it in on a Bosch computer but didn't find a relevant fault code, but said it's common for the drive gear inside the gearbox to snap and not spin the sensor best way to check was to take out the sensor rotate the wheels and see if the cog was moving, I did this and that cog seemed to be moving fine (video to hand if needed)
The electrician then said if I plug the speed sensor in and attach the other end to a drill the speedo should move and the drill would simulate a moving vehicle but the clocks still didn't register anything.
Feel like I'm banging my head against a brick wall now any help is much appreciated.
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Hitting it really hard off the floor is the only real way but it'll never be perfect
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Flipping awful. don't understand why they haven't got with the times and put a tapered headtube on it.
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That was amazing! I don't think he fully understands how scary tapping rails is :')
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If you end up taking that rear hub apart send me a few photos of how the modifications have been done.
Bike looks well mate.
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January 2017 Sunday 29th Shipley Glen, Baildon, W.Yorks TykeTrial Club, Rnd 4 Email for information or see Facebook page February 2017 Sunday 12th Penistone Country Park, Haworth, W.Yorks TykeTrial Club, Rnd 5 Email for information or see Facebook page March 2017 Sunday 12th Bracken Rocks, Derbyshire TykeTrial Club, Rnd 6 Email for information or see Facebook page April 2017 Sunday 2nd Addingham Moorside, Silsden, W.Yorks British Trials Cup, Rnd 1 Email for info May 2017 Sunday 7th Fort William (in conjunction with last day of SSDT and start of downhill) Scottish Biketrial Club, Rnd 1 Email for information or see Facebook page Sunday 7th To be arranged TykeTrial Club, Rnd 7 Email for information or see Facebook page Sunday 14th Biketrial Academy UK, Cambridgeshire British Trials Cup, Rnd 2 Email for info Saturday/Sunday 20th/21st Aalter, Belgium UCI World Cup Rnd 1 Website June 2017 Sunday 11th Bob Macgregor Trials Park, Ayreshire British Trials Cup, Rnd 3 Email for info Sunday 11th Bob Macgregor Trials Park, Ayreshire Scottish Biketrial Club, Rnd 2 Email for information or see Facebook page Saturday 24th Newburgh, Near Perth (part of Muckmedden event, info here) Scottish Biketrial Club, Rnd 3 Email for information or see Facebook page July 2017 Saturday/Sunday 1st/2nd Prague, Czech Republic UCI World Cup Rnd 2 Website Sunday 2nd To be arranged TykeTrial Club Email for information or see Facebook page Saturday/Sunday 8th/9th Vocklabruck, Austria UCI World Cup Rnd 3 Website Sunday 23rd Reinosa, Spain BIU European Championship Email Delegate for info Saturday/Sunday 29th/30th Les Menuires, France UCI World Cup Rnd 4 Website August 2017 Saturday/Sunday 4th/6th Viborg, Denmark UCI World Youth Games Monday - Friday 14th-18th Bueu, Spain BIU World Championship Email Delegate for info Saturday/Sunday 26th/27th Albertville, France UCI World Cup Rnd 5 Website September 2017 Sunday 10th To be arranged TykeTrial Email for information or see Facebook page Saturday/Sunday 23rd/24th Antwerp, Belgium UCI World Cup Rnd 6 Website October 2017 Sunday 8th To be arranged TykeTrial Email for information or see Facebook page November 2017 December 2017 -
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Only real issue you're going to get is bearing corrosion if you're not carrful around moving parts
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1 hour ago, lifes-a-trial said:
Wrong
I'm pretty sure @Adam@TartyBikes will tell you exactly what I've just said. As would anyone in the cycle trade.
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9 hours ago, Ross McArthur said:
You do realise that its the pad that wears (considerably faster) not the disc.
Yes of course I know this.
The bedding in procedure is the pad leaving a residue of its self onto the rotor, the material we make disc brake pads out of can't grip onto a metalic surface which is why the brakes need to be bedded in.
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27 minutes ago, niconj said:
This is how you claze your pads.
Nope. At that sort of speed you're not travelling quick enough the emit the amount of heat you would need to glaze a set of pads.
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2 hours ago, Ross McArthur said:
Pulsing is maybe the wrong term. Sounds like you're asking him to have the brake on slightly, then harder. That's not the case.
What you need to do is jab the brakes. On. Off. Repeat.
Never do this.
The process of bedding in brakes is to get an even coating of pad material on the rotor, if you jab the brakes you'll create high and low spots in the rotor and this will cause brake judder and you'll find that the brake works mint on certain spots of the rotor and completely rubbish on other parts.
The way to do it is to ride up and down at a steady riding pace (15 mph-ish) and drag your brakes once up to speed and come to a slow and steady stop. Repeat 15/20 times.
Riff Raff Barcelona 2012
in Videos
Posted
Bit of an old post but does anyone have a link of this video that works?