• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About ScottM

  • Rank
    Trials Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
  • Bike Ridden
  • Country
    United States
  1. I have wondered if the Trialtech Carthy front rim might work well for a Hex? 31mm wide with 32 spoke holes. Weight is on par with the Spank rims so maybe not too light to serve as a rear?
  2. New pads so plenty of meat. It looks like I only needed standard clamps after all? I held the cyclinders in place with the rim installed just now and it looks like it would work with standard clamps, at least until the pads wear down. My understanding is that I’ll have to move the cylinders in as the pads wear? I have only dealt with hydraulic disc brakes to this point.
  3. I am trying to set up an old 26" comp frame (ZOO with 99mm spaced mounts) with an HS-33. The bike previously had a V brake with adapters and has an old DX32 rim which is about 38mm wide. The V brake works but the bushings on the arms are pretty worn out and I like the feel of hydraulic brakes I have tried so thought it might be a good time to try some on my own bike. I found a pair of Tensile offset clamps thinking they might work a little better for clamping the cylinders further inboard with the narrow rim. At this point I'm not sure, I guess standard mounts might have worked ok since in this position the offsets don't get me any extra clearance to mount the cylinders further in. It does seem like it would still be good to clamp the cylinders closer to their centers however? The problem I have now is that the Tensile clamps have little "ears" protruding on the portion of the clamp that would contact the brake bosses on the frame but the bosses are too wide for the brake clamps to sit flat with the little "ears" in the way. I checked the clamps against my Hex as well and it looks like they would have the same fit problem... Looking at some pictures it seems like Magura clamps are made the same way? Anybody have any advice for the best work around here? I think I could file the little ears flat but I wanted to get some advice first because I think it would take quite a lot of work to make sure I get both surfaces flat with respect to each other and I don't think replacement Tensile's are available if I mess them up. Alternatively I may try to get some aluminum washers to fit between the "ears". This would be easier but then the clamps won't have near the contact with the frame bosses. I mainly don't want to deform the bosses on the bike or not have a strong enough fit. Before I go too far maybe I should just bite the bullet and build up a wider rim or maybe just new V brake arms!? Thanks!
  4. Long time mountain biker here that has been slowly getting into trials over the last few years. I started with an older comp bike, tried a Norco Manifesto for awhile and then just bought a Hex a couple months ago. My only regret is not going for a Hex years ago!
  5. Ok nevermind, somehow I knew it would be simple and I would look dumb. The bolts simply go much tighter than I am used to for bike components. 50NM according to Adam at Tarty.
  6. I am needing just a little help setting up a Howitzer bottom bracket with a Holzfeller crankset as found on a stock Inspired Hex. I just bought the bike lightly used and as it arrived there was only one spacer located on the drive side. As found the cranks had a definite side to side play so I looked up the installation sheet for the Howitzer bottom bracket and saw that with the 68mm shell it needs two spacers on the drive side and one on the non-drive. I now have it installed in this configuration but still have side to side play in the spindle. Is there something I don't know about how the Inspireds are supposed to be setup or what am I missing? It looks like it needs yet another spacer but I already have the three installed. What gives? Thanks.
  7. If they are broken down inside the hub mount the best thing I have found for that kind of thing are left-handed drill bits. Center punch the bolt first then start drilling into it with the left-handed bit and at some point it should catch and come right out.