Jump to content

shovel

Members
  • Posts

    427
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by shovel

  1. the evo 2 refers to the extra booster bit that mounts on to the bosses first, kinda works like an extra booster(very thin though) but makes the brake a bit easier to set up

    so in answer to your question. get the hs33 and you'll get the evo2 for free ;)

  2. at the moment shift down into 3rd gear, look at the bike from behind and you should have a straight line with the chain, if not, then measure how far over to the right the chainring needs to go to make it straight. that measurement should help you figure out how much longer your bb needs to be. probably either 122.5 or 128. the bb you have at the moment will either be 113 or 118 as you don't get 115 ;)

  3. middleburn make xtr compatible chainrings for the new hollowtech 2 xtr chainsets although they are 4 arm. pretty sure if you check with your local bikeshop that they might make one for the older xtr like yours, failing that shimano are obviously going to make chainrings to fit their own cranks. . . .

  4. its because the mech swings in an arch, so the shiffter is now not matched, try a 6 speed mech

    :- other than that i dunno, oil the cables

    won't be the shifter, i run a modified 8 speed cassette with only 6 cogs and i use an 8 speed xt shifter and it works fine. hows to chain line on the bike? your bb length could be too short and the chain line could be a bit off? the only other thing i can think of that it could be man!

  5. as said above, look at all the basics.

    mech hanger straight?

    mech have excessive play?

    cassette worn?

    chain worn?

    jocky wheels worn?

    chain clean/lubed and not twisted/free of stiff links?

    cassette clean?

    no kinks in inner cable?

    no worn/damaged sections of outer cable?

    shifter not broken?

    and finally are the gears set up properly? have you re-adjusted the limit screws for the smaller range of gears and have the gears been tuned properly with proper cable tension etc.

    i run an 8 speed cassette with two cogs removed and three spacers in the back to space it out on a king rear hub and i have no probs whatsoever, i usually find that poor shifting is down to dirt in the cables, best thing to do is to flush out all outer cables with gt-85 and fit a new inner cable, makes loads of difference :)

  6. as said above^^^^^ truvativ gigapipe dh's are the shizz in isis bb, mines lasting me well at the moment, still suprisingly smooth actually :shifty:

    but yeah if it is a square taper then go for un53, they've done me well in the past, although if it is square taper than you should see this as an oportunity and upgrade to isis, i changed to isis a while ago and cranks feel soo much stiffer and you feel like you can get alot more power through than square taper, also bigger axle so less chance of future snappage (Y)

  7. you'll have to unscrew the three little screws/file off the three little pins on the back of your cassette which will allow you to take it into pieces. choose which 4 gears out of that 6 you want to keep, slot the cogs on with one of the spacers in between each and finish off with the two loose cogs that were there before, tighten up the lockring good and tight and you're done! :)

  8. ha, i've nearly got a bike built out of spares, not bad spec too:

    giant martin hawyes replica (original yellow one)

    hope suspension on mavic xb17cd front

    hope ti-glide on mavic d521 cd rear

    raceface turbine lp cranks

    xtr short cage rear mech

    fsa xl2 headset

    answer pro taper bars

    irc kujo rear and el gato front

    few other random bits too. . . . not a bad bike for just being my spares :rolleyes:

  9. Out of interest why? Dont you like being able to see through your windscreen?

    getting them removed and the holes left smoothed over. going to move the washer jets to the scuttle pannel so they'll be hidden under the bonnet. so they'll still be there to use. but the bonnet will be all smooth to look at ;)

  10. i choped a heap off with the stanly knife and then gripped the sides of the barbed connector with the hose on it and pulled at it and it came off. when i hammered the barbed connector onto the new bit of hosing it was a very tight fit, gave the bike a bit of a test today and it's all good

    the new tubing will turn round a little bit on the barbed connector, quite stiffly though. . . .prob need a couple of new barbed connectors if the hose is spinning very freely

  11. toxsin one all the way, they're awesome :P

    they fell soo nice to ride, any type of ridin really, natural or street, they're great!

    oh and i'm actually pretty sure i read that the two is lighter than the one :S only by about 50g though

  12. i got a split in my rear crossover and just replaced it last night, best thing to do is to clamp the barb connector in a vice and chop at it with a stanly knife and then use some cable cutters and prise it off, do the same with the other connector, with two little plastic hose holders hold the new piece of hose in the vice and hammer the barb connector in

    not very hard to do at all ;)

×
×
  • Create New...