Deonn h

The best option would be to get some isis cranks and bb.If the ones youve got arnt already isis.Try-all bbs are strong.I would no for square bb`s though.

wtf this topic is abit old int it .

lol just go to magura.com. **Start by backing off your TPA (screw clockwise!) or pad adjuster screw and reach adjuster (screw both of them counter-clockwise!). This is very important and must not be missed. 1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. If you bleed the brakes any differently than the above steps, the chances of air being in the system is great. The above steps ensure that oil will not siphon back through the system and drag some air with it. You have been warned. The next steps might not be necessary but it will truly give you air-free brakes - Lay the bike on its side with the lever you're working on being the lower lever. Remove the bleed screw (which is pointing UP) again and now just drip fluid into the hole until it is completely full. Re-install the bleed screw (some fluid will get displaced, that's okay). That's it, you're done. You now have a completely bled system free of air. Go ride! Or Quickbleed ! If you just have to replace a lever and you don't have to disturb a slave cylinder or a line, you will be able to get away with just filling the master (lever) cylinder and you won't have to do a complete bleed. When you remove the line from the lever, just make sure it doesn't wave around or fluid will be lost and a full bleed will have to be done. A vacuum will allow the fluid to remain in the line. Remove the fitting from the lever and tuck the line in among your other cables or tape it in place. Just don't let it wag or snap around. Replace the lever and screw the line fitting back into it snugly. Use a new olive - you'll have to cut the line with a very sharp knife just behind the old olive. Remember - the fitting is going into aluminum so don't go nuts. Also, you MUST back the pad adjuster and lever throw adjuster right off with a 2mm allen wrench. Lay the bike on its side and prepare to work on the lever who's bleed screw is facing up. Remove the bleed screw. Fill your bleed syring (or an eye dropper) with brake oil and drip it into the lever until it ALMOST fills the screw cavity - leave a gap from the top. Operate the lever S-L-O-W-L-Y for its full travel and you will see bubbles rise and pop. Go verrrrry slowly or oil will spill out. When the lever is back to the bars, release it slowly and re-fill the lever body. Squeeze the lever again slowly and repeat the squeeze-release and fill sequence until no more bubbles surface. It will take about 5-6 full pulls to accomplish this. You'll wonder where all the oil is going. When you're sure it's full then try tapping the lever to open it a mere gnat's whisker. You may find other small bubbles appear. This is good! Repeat and re-fill until no more bubbles appear at all. Completely top up the lever right to the top of the threads and replace the bleed screw. Now squeeze the lever several times to circulate the fluid, this will also cause any air that still might be in the line or master cylinder to rise to the top. Perform a Quickbleed top up once more, reset your TPA/pad adjuster and reach adjuster and you're done.

Same here I use them for street , just wantin some for natural though. P.s the person who said the tyres are shit , what are u on there better than maxxis , and least I won`t get punctures ever 2 mins like i did when i used to run maxxis ages ago.

cheers for the advise.Anyone running one on a ronnie rim cause there abit thin not sure if it will hold a 2.7.Need a new rim anyway the amount of tyre foldage with them rims it`s basically impossible to run low pressures with them rims .

Right I`m wanting to get one of the new monty tyres but I`m not sure if it will fit .Is anyone else running 1 on a python 05 frame.The gap is 7.3cm in my frame so if anyone fancy`s measuring there new monty tyre on there bike that would be a great help. Thanks Deonn.

ok

Wouldn`t you start getting like that if you got put back to new members 4 times.I know I would be quite pi**ed off .lol.Some people just get validated for a couple of posts nothing special and for others it takes ages.But I aint complainin , just trying to prove a point .

Where abouts is round 2. And for the british round at addingham am I allowed to compete non competetive if i don`t have a acu licence.

Where u get it from then?

http://www.observedtrials.net/vb/local_links.php left click and save target as on tra england 2.

Well obviosly me and my other mate.But no other people.Not sure if people in the cars saw it they must have seen something.

no we was just stood there talking and he must have just run over the road we didn`t see him comeing.And it was on a main road too.

--> QUOTE(Josh B @ Feb 27 2006, 08:02 PM) ←I take it/hope youve rang the police Yeh my mate rung the police immeadiatly.

Me and two of my mates were out today in my local town (wakefield). This random guy walked up behind my mate and held a 6 inch knife out and grabed his handle bars and rid off casually.The bike is a zoo! pitbull with king zoo cranks onza bars hog front rim, double maggies.Could people look out for this bike on ebay ect, or around wakefield maybe leeds area please.

Awsemm vid cap some huge gaps n lines in there

Whats the point in this topic there already is 1 about the comp. Mint day though.

Thats what i was thinkin too. Or does joe have an 06.

You can grind them.Here is the tartybikes description. - Trials-specific rims from Echo. - Super wide 47mm wide rim offering un-paralleled anti-roll performance, even at the lowest of pressures. - 24mm holes to shed vast amounts of weight. - High grade aluminium alloy construction for maximum grind life and dent resistance. - Double wall construction for increased strength and stiffness. - Also features double thickness sidewalls! These help prevent dents, and provide extra rim life since the rim can be ground many more times! - Cleverly placed internal walls (see picture), situated closer to the spoke bed than other rims, help support the spokes better, for a stiffer and stronger wheelbuild. - Un-eyeletted to save around 50g of weight per rim! - Anodised finish (including the braking surface) works great out of the box, but can be ground away should you wish. - Colours: Black, Silver, Red, Blue, Green and Gold! - Available in 32h only. - Weight: 476g

It will fit wont it .T-birds come with a ronnie rim on back .I run a ronnie rim with tryall`s.Just give it some pasty or get metal tyre levers or nic the knives out of the kichen like i do.

997mm i think.Or 995mm or something like that.

It`s snowing.And iv`e got school.

me and me mate are gonna be at station at 11:10.Anyone wonna meet us there or at the red walls across the road from the station.

--> QUOTE(Josh B @ Feb 22 2006, 06:15 PM) ←Is my mate ok riding a gu 20'' mite be a stupid question, No bash plate if any one is wondering. Also how do we get comfirmation barabra has recived our forms/money. Yay sun josh .. I have a zoo with no bash and i enter comps so its ok.

I`ve no idea where that is .