djb
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Posts posted by djb
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I could ride after work for a bit. I finish at half 3 so could be in the city by 4ish. It all depends how long you want to be out for, i'll quite happily stay out 'till late evening time if there's a few others about but I can't be bothered if you're all gonna want to leave much earlier.
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Hope hubs and Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims - super strong and not exactly heavy.
I personally wouldn't choose Halo rims as they have a habit of denting really easily though the newest ones seem to be better.
As for Mavic rims they do (did?) exist in 24" but are super rare and the only bike shop I know of that sells them is in Australia. From what I remember they don't ship abroad and the rims are quite pricey compared to what can be easily found in this country.
For more suggestions try a look here, a thread just for 24" component suggestions/recommendations
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So how do I go about getting these parts? - DeWHORE calipers? Where's they from then...
EdiT - Been having a look around, adding up all the parts i'll need and they seem to be a touch more expensive than a maggie, perhaps I should just buy a new magura! But think Vee's would be so much simpler!
DeWHORE = Deore, available just about anywhere
The cables can be found on ebay or any BMX shop such as alansbmx.com, levers are probably cheapest on CRC where you can also get the caliper. Pads will depend on what you want as to where you can get them from.
As for being more than a Magura, you get what you pay for - really. I've ridden vee's for ever and I rarely come across a bike with a brake set-up I like and trust as much as my own that isn't based around a rim caked in tar. OK i've gone down the pimped route with Ultimates, XTR levers and Linear Slick cables but a good set up can be found for just a few quid more than a set of Maguras and once assembled they're completely hassle free. Make th change, deep down you know you want to.
EDIT: damn you Paul, beat me to it
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Finally got my bike back to working how I like it so I will be riding tomorrow. Likely to be a few minutes late though since i'll be getting the bus.
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Mines a 28.6mm, I know because my Hope clamp is sitting beside me at the moment in two bits since the collar snapped rather randomly on me last night
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A mate of mine is now riding a Drone fully built with other DMR and Halo goodies having killed his Transition. Now I don't know actual geometry figures but all I can say is that it all feels wrong. The bike feels horrendously heavy (much more than it actually is), has twitchy steering, a seemingly very short top tube and a rather long back end making it feel incredibly sluggish for spins and giving a rather strange riding position. A different stem and bar set-up may change things but I cant see it making massive improvements.
It's not just me who says this about it either, he doesn't particularly like it and most of the other locals think it's a little weird and I know of no one who would rate it over his Transition. Strangely he's still able to ride it incredibly well but was saying only yesterday that it still doesn't feel right even after having it for a few weeks.
I really really wouldn't recommend buying one without riding one first to see if you can get on with it, if you want a DMR go for a Transition - excellent bike for street, park or dirt.
That's my 2p anyway, hope that helps
Daniel
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I've been so tempted with one of these recently, especially given the issues of fakie tricks with a stupid super spinny trials gear. The main thing holding me back is, as boon has said, the problem of getting a sensible trials gear and also the need for a new frame with 3/8" dropouts. I'm not sure how well they'd take the harsher engagement of trials riding either.
Someone give one a try please, I need to know how well they perform!
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They are custom , u make them ride how u want to! hehe
you have to know what u want!
Having said that I bought mine second hand so it was someone else's geometry choices yet it's still the nicest bike i've ever ridden by a long shot.
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P2s used to be one of the better forks back in the day before dedicated trials components were made offering good length, strength and light weight. There's now a few different P2 forks and the newer ones are in my opinion outclassed by forks from dedicated trials component manufacturers, either way they're better than Trailblades which are both very heavy and not overly strong.
Daniel
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Here's my machine
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noticed you had Avid levers and a tesioner for sale, How much you looking for
tensioner a fiver plus postage, offer me for the levers - they're six years old and look it but still work well, I was using them untill about 8 months ago. Covered in scratches and the blades are bent a fraction downwards.
dyo know whether it will fit my bb size. if i use just freewheel and cranks? bog standard onza cranks . cheersNot a clue mate, sorry.
The shell width is easy enough for you to measure yourself, just measure from the edges of the bottom bracket tube on your frame. It will be either 68mm or 73mm. As for axle length being enough that's a bit more tricky, if you search on the forum there's a list of axle widths for most mod and stock frames, failing that tell the forum what frame you have and see if someone else knows. You can get a rough idea by measuring the distance between the centre point of the crank arms where they're bolted to the bb but it's hard to say since different cranks seem to push different distances on to different bbs
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I've sworn by them for the last eight years, never yet broken one.
I have one for sale, a 68mm x 113mm if your interested, not that old bearings still wonderfully smooth and has a brand new left hand cup. Picture here with all my other stuff that's for sale photobucket link, after about £7 posted
Daniel
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I may come if the weather is good, probably with a mate from work too
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You are indeed correct but there is no need to get the whole headset, you can get just the star nut, bolt and top cap. I got mine from Halfords where I work for the pricely sum of £2.99, i'm pretty sure we're still selling them too though they're not on our display so you may have to ask someone if there's one lying about. Failing that your local bike shop or any decent BMX shop should be able to sort you out.
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Another vote for Bubble Bobble here. I managed to track down a proper PC version with the original graphics and music about a month ago and haven't spent a day without playing it :$ . I was also so addicted to Treasure Island Dizzy on the old 64, I can remember having an A2 size map all drawn out so I knew where to go when the inevitable crash occurred
Damn this is stirring up some good memories, only thing is you know none of the classics will be the same if they get re-released on this new Commodore
You lot are gonna get me searching ebay again, i've come so close to buying another one it's just stupid.
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change of plans means I can't make this weekend, still up for the ride on the 11th though
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I should be good for this.
Being a Saturday it's likely to be quite busy though so it may be worth trying to find some more out the way spots if we can, it would be cool if we can find something new.
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Wow, didn't realise I'd spark up such a discussion.
Chris, my comment about it being a pain was based on my previously simple selection of spokes to build a D521 onto a Mono in my first wheel building experience. I am always interested in learning and honing new skills and the satisfaction of riding on good strong wheels built by myself with the added bonus of £20 staying in my pocket is what makes me want to do it again.
It's nice to see there are other people passionate about getting things right and able to help lesser experienced enthusiasts. I'd just hoped (and possibly a bit naively assumed) that the dimensions would be the same for any given rim of the same make and model enabling me to order the rim and spokes together. Like Adam has explained it is hard to see how such differences as have been noted can be achieved in manufacturing, yet they obviously do and it is a point I will remember for future wheel builds (which will hopefully remain few and far between).
Thanks again to both of you for your comments
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I think just to be safe I'll buy the rim first and measure it up before ordering some spokes. Luckily i'm not in a rush to get it done and with both of you having built the rims up with different length spokes and them being a non-returnable item I can't be doing with the hassle of getting the wrong ones.
What a pain in the arse for something that should be so simple
Cheers for your help guys.
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Is that the one listed on the Sun website? If so, its incorrect. The last pair of Rhyno Lites I built came out to more like 499... (bought spokes for an ERD of 493 and they were miles too short, had to buy more).
Gimme a few mins and I'll work out the lengths for you
That is the measurement on their site, though the DT Swiss calculator says it's 497mm, which would tie in with what you're saying.
Your help is much appreciated.
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Cheers Chris. Further research has indeed confirmed 493mm is correct.
Only thing left to decide is whether to go shorter or longer. The calculator says use 235mm spokes on the drive side but CRC only does 234mm or 236mm, is one going to be better to use than the other or does it not really matter?
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Right, I've done a search and checked the DT Swiss spoke calculator and have come up with numerous spoke length possibilities for the wheel I want to build up. I'm gonna get a Rhyno Lite XL (unless anyone recommends anything different sub £30 available 36 hole and in black) to build 3 cross on to a Hope Mono. The Sun website gives two different ERDs and the DT Swiss spoke calculator a third. These are 486mm, 493mm (confirmed by derf on here in a previous topic) and 497mm. Obviously these differences give quite substantial spoke length changes.
So my first question is what is the ERD of a Rhyno Lite?
My next problem is spoke choice its self, which seems to be very limited for 24". CRC only lists spokes in even lengths and the calculator always gives one side as odd. So is it better to go shorter or longer, or for the sake of 1mm does it even matter?
Third and final question, which spokes out of the DT Swiss or the Halo ones do people most recommend, or are there maybe some more out there that I have missed that won't cost me an arm and a leg?
Cheers
Daniel
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Because i'm such a legend i've put it on Google video here. The quality got raped a bit which is annoying but at least it's up again for the world to see. Enjoy.
I was watching through it last night and there were a few spots that were supposed to be in Norwich that I had no idea where they were, the most confusing being the big stately home park area where everyone fell into the water hopping to the fountain, anyone got any ideas?
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Same as Leedstrials really, i've always had a streety/BMXeyness about the way I ride (mainly due to riding company) so switched to 24", it's the best investment i've made in my 8 years riding. The bike is much more flickable and feels so solid and confidence inspiring, I can't see me ever moving back to stock.
I'd say the choice to switch has mainly to do with your riding style. If you've got more of a street/BMX flavour then i'd say do it, you won't regret it.
Cnced Parts For Radio Controlled Cars
in Chit Chat
Posted · Edited by djb
I've just been discussing this with my brother as he regularly races RC model cars. In his opinion there is a limited market for alloy components outside of those parts already readily available and since these are simple items there is little room for improvements or variations giving you a fair bit of competition, especially if you consider companies in America (my brother mentioned JCONCEPTS for example) that produce a number of components that can be imported for dirt cheap prices.
He thought your best way to get into making and selling parts was to get in touch someone like Atomic Carbon who my brother is sponsored by. It's a small company that has relatively recently taken off making carbon fibre components and chassis kits. At the minute all the CNC components that come with that kit are sourced from America but a UK supplier may interest the owner and my brother says he is highly likely to be supportive of anyone wanting to make a start, especially if it could assist him as well. Apparently he is currently developing a 2 wheel drive chassis that will I assume require different bits to those he already gets for the 4 wheel drive so you may be able to help out there.
It may also be worth having a trawl through the photos on oople as there are quite a few shots of cars where you could get a a good idea of what is already made and the complexity of the components. My brother also mentioned some other more custom items that would be good including out drives (basically a cylinder with a groove in coming off of the gearbox that transfers drive to the drive shaft) slightly longer than the ones available and gearbox casings though they could end up quite intricate.
Sorry that turned out to be a bit of an essay but I hope it helps a bit. If you want any more info i'm sure either my brother or Jonathan at Atomic Carbon would be willing to give it.
Daniel