ding_dong

yeah they was we was talkin to then for a bit, but they wasn't ridng the rocks when we got there, but they left about 7ish kinda as we got ther.

07870518048 thats my number dude, gimme a text n ill cum out

i used to do this shit for a living, key up (sand) the side walls with some 1200 grit wen 'n' dry sand paper, then mask off the rest of the wheel, make sure its completly clean i used to use panel wipe for this job but im guessing you dont have that so just give them an uber clean, then apply 6-7 layers of really thin primer, flatting ech coat with some 2000 grade wen 'n' dry, then leave for at lest 12 ours to set properly, unless you have a good heater that can get the room/booth up tp arround 50 degrees plus, then it will only take a couple of hours to set properly. once the primer has set, and has been sanded down with some 2000, start with the paint again flating between layers (5-6), once you have a good coverage leave to set for another 24h or bake it as said earlier, then once again flat the paint then apply 4-5 REALLY thin layers of laquer, be really carefull with this stuff as it runs easily, espsialy from a can. your best bet for this would be to remove the masking from the rim but leave the spokes n hub coverd, then flat the whle rim with some 2000 then laquer the rull rim, thus making the whole thing look brand new and like its all been freshly painted if you do this you will get a spot on job, as long as you dont get any runs with in your paint. the key is to be pacient, don't rush its not a race.

when i rode mod i used 18.12 like most do. When i man'ed up and went to stock i ran 18:16 for a while but prefared 18:15 by far. Now i run 18:14 on my 24" and its perfect, can get enough speed for "streety" kinda stuff, but still easy enough for "propper" trials moves

pretty much hit the nail on the head, altho i run a 100x15 degree rise zoo stem on my 24" but it has a "traditional" no seat trials geo, rides nice for all round stuff, would be better for "propper trials" moves with a higer stem, but im learning spins n stuff so it all good for me. EDIT: im also running old style zoo! bars plus 10mm of stem spacers/stackers

dunno i got if off my mate.

got the rims off tarty, there onza ronnies, and i already had the pro II for the rear and the random front hub, then i just got the spokes and built 'em my self

dude i got my new 24" all sorted now so im guna be rinding that all the time now lol, shame about the weather today i wanted to go out, mike not the best idea putting your numba on a public forum EDIT: saying that its not even right so your ok, it has one to many numbers lol.

yope!! good to see some new riders in hull, im not the best of riders lets say that, just get you self out n give it a go add me to msn, both of you that is t-mag_rider@hotmail.co.uk

i read summaty on here the other day about a guy using them on a crome rim on the back and the brake beeing that powerful it was ripping the material out of ther backings so sound like they work just a bit too well.

sure was.

erm.... cant rember off hand but ill find out lol and yeah i just realised it should be in bike pics :$ one more cos i can

yeah trials geo still, i actualy got the frame off my mate brand new so i didn't choose the geo but it rides awsome. and that better??

and another

just got my new 24" all finished so i though i would share some pics, so you could let me know what you all think thanks

thanks for that saved me a job, but i still need to know how to measure the hub as its an unbranded hub im running on the front so i can find it anywhere on the net for sizes.

can anyone tell me either what spokes i would need ti build my 24" onza ronnie ont a pro 2 26h 3cross pattern? or how to work it out? also what parts of the hub do i need to measure to work out spoke length? as i dont know what the hub is so i cant look on a web site or anything like i can with the pro 2. this is for the front being built on to a reggie rim, aslo 24". cheers

i haven't got my built yet but i will have tomoro when my parts come, i have 24"built by him and its awsome, cant find a fault with it buy looking at it, the welds look good, its nice and light and its got renforcing gussets/plates in all the right places and they all look really neat. i will put a pic up of it tomoro when its built

i found the simplest way to do it and get it spot on every time it to put it under the water, take both bolts out then pump the lever untill it appears no more air is coming out. chances are there will be though, so...pull the lever, and while you have it pulled put your finger over ther bleed hole on the slave (bit where the pad goes in) then the go of the lever, whilst still covering the hole, the take finger off the hole, i found this helps as it sucks in water then forced the air out the other end when you take your finger off, also put the bolt back in the brake while its still under the water so thers no shance of air getting in ther anywhere should be ok, if not u might have a small leak somewhere.

that doesn't help lol, they any good or not?

i orderd my stuff this morning and i have gone for 18:14 and a 2.35 dmr moto digger on the front, and i got some echo pads...these any good? i just like the colour they matched my frame :$

what tyres you running up front guys?

cheers dude, i can live with it a little stiffer, i ran 18 15 for a while on my stock and quite liked it lol.

so when you say "as close as you will get" do you mean it will be slightly slacker or tighter on a 14t?

as it says, i am in the process of ordering the rest of my stuff off tarty but dont know what rear cog i need, on my stock i ran 18, 16 and i would like to keep it arround the same ratio but am i right in guessing the different size in wheel means id need a smaler cog on the rear?? please help. another thing what tyres you running? i have a sum random 3" wide knobly as frick thing for the rear but not sure what to run on front, thinking a dmr moto digger? what you other 24" dudes running?