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planet x alan

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Posts posted by planet x alan

  1. Thanks for the suggestions guys, the idea of welding a bar onto it i could not seeing work, it's a 4mm hole so he'd heve to be a pretty shit hot welder to get a bit of steel in there without melting my brake mounts to bits. As for cutting a slot, as Adam said there's been a bit of torque gone through it to shatter it (Yes I did go at it with brute force and ignorance and paid the price!). I think my plan of action is gonna be to live with it with a jubilee clip holding it on until a decent frame pops up for sale cheapish!

  2. What he's referring to is the lockring, rather than the whole freewheel itself. Ive experienced this with a tensile freewheel twice, but if you use locktight on the threads, it's fine.

    Yeh ofcourse... On freewheels like the tensile and such that you would normally run on the front the lock ring is on the opposite side as they are designed to be run as ffw set ups, whereas bmx freewheels aren't, hence why running an ACS claw on the front (like a lot of budget trials bikes used to) the lockring came off, whereas if fitted on the rear you'd experience no problems at all.

  3. Back in the day I ran an ACS claw on a dmr revolver hub using 22/16 ratio. They don't unscrew as you pedal and the freewheel never seemed to skip on the back. This would probably be the cheaper option.

    More expensive option would be to run front freewheel, white industries or similar (heard people saying the echo SL is a decent one aswell but I've never used one so can't really comment on that). Probably still marginally cheaper than going down the pro2 route.

    Running a freewheel up front seems to give better pick up on the engagement. But I think a freehub on the rear would be a bit more reliable with a deeper, wider ratchet and larger pawls.

  4. The tap has well and truly snapped off inside the mount and not retreivable using long nosed plyers or anything like that. In hindsight i should of used better quality stuff for the job!

    The question is: If i were to drill the whole lot out would it be worth it/possible for an aluminium welder to fill the mount back up and for me to re drill/retap the mount. Would the heat involved weaken the frame in any way?

    Bodged it together with a jubilee clip atm and it's holding up well enough but would be nice to be able to fiddle about with brake set up while out riding!

    Any input appreciated.

  5. "No."

    "Why not, I won't nick it?"

    "I know you won't, 'cos I'm not letting you have a go."

    best answer for a little chav, but if its a big b*****d something on the lines of "nah mate it's broke" normally works. tell them your wheels f**ked or something and they believe you.

    But if its a drunken bloke or something i just let them have a go cause its funny, if they do decide to try and ride off on it, they aint gonna get far on 18/14 gear ratio and aint gonna be able to ride a bike with +40bb and no seat lol.

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