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Disc Rotor?


T.McMillan

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Well it can't be that bad...

what disc you runing it on? Cause if you think you have enough power in your disc to grip the rotor then meh should be fine..

dont hold me to that :P

lol will you give me my money back if it dont work lol

i think this one will be better

fbec_1_b.JPG

what you think

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Wavy rotors are better because the pad exerts it's force over a smaller surface/contact area, giving it more power, which is better than a bigger contact area and less power, so, the first rotor (hope Gothic?) might be quite good, they look cool though, which is their main reason for existence.

Edited by Fat Pants
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Wavy rotors are better because the pad exerts it's force over a smaller surface/contact area, giving it more power, which is better than a bigger contact area and less power, so, the first rotor (hope Gothic?) might be quite good, they look cool though, which is their main reason for existence.

But alas, when you pull the lever your brake goes warbling everywhere (warble is a pulsating vibration where it grips and doesn't grip etc) it feels a bit nasty and i'd advise against getting a spiky rotor.

The avid rotors and hope mono trial rotors are excellent though.

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Wavy rotors are better because the pad exerts it's force over a smaller surface/contact area, giving it more power, which is better than a bigger contact area and less power, so, the first rotor (hope Gothic?) might be quite good, they look cool though, which is their main reason for existence.

Friction has nothing to do with contact area.

F=µ * N

where F is the force of friction, µ is the coefficient of friction and N is the force applied. No areas...

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Clive Leeson made super spikey rotors out of Hope C2 rotors back in the day. His reason was that with spikey rotors, the pads had more sides to clamp around than a normal rotor.

I guess if you imagine your disc pads were super soft, when they clamp onto the disc they would sorta mould around the edges of the disc and get between the spikes etc.

I think thats the general idea anyway.

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Also depends what break you have, the first one will only work with some breaks, such as hayes, hope mono-trials, old hope mini/C2, so basicaly, it only works with breaks with a deep pad, so no 4-pots, no newer shimanos, no BB7s ect. Second looks good, as long as you dont slightly bend one of the points, but again, it will prefer the thiner style pads, so oposite of the other one.

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