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Because Bikes


Mike W

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Looking at getting a new frame and was wondering if anyone has any information on the because mod frames?

any pics of them built up? reviews?

Also looking at the onza blade frame? same again really

Thanks guys :)

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We've not built a Because yet but they seem pretty good value for money. Quality is decent, geometry good, weight and design are both sensible. The Blade is also a good frame, again with sensible design and very light for the cash!

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Was gonna' suggest these to you Mike, look alright, nice geo for the long also.

Adam, how flexy are the stays? like if you push the dropouts together, because my Python hardly moves, but Echo Lite moves loads, and I can tell in the braking power/flex.

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Because bikes a sister brand to neon and ive only heard bad things about neons?

Yes thats one of the things that put me off a bit, im fairly smooth but i have my moments.

Thanks for the advice guys, any more would be appreciated

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Yes thats one of the things that put me off a bit, im fairly smooth but i have my moments.

Thanks for the advice guys, any more would be appreciated

i own a because simple 20" short rode it a few weeks. One thing you should know is the chainstay length is wrong. Its actually 355 not 350 which makes a huge difference to people like me because it throws off my chain tension. Also where the magura mounts are postioned you will need to run the wheel at 360mm chainstarys or the brakes wont work. Anyways the frame seems half decent but I would buy a bionic instead, they are the exact same price and almost exact same geo but from a reliable company. Anyways as for the frame it self it feels decent. Flexes a medium amount. The geo specs speak the rest it will feel the same as any other bike with the same geo. The weight is wrong too I am pretty sure I think its heavier than they claim. For neon products it seems more sturdy than most.

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i own a because simple 20" short rode it a few weeks. One thing you should know is the chainstay length is wrong. Its actually 355 not 350 which makes a huge difference to people like me because it throws off my chain tension. Also where the magura mounts are postioned you will need to run the wheel at 360mm chainstarys or the brakes wont work. Anyways the frame seems half decent but I would buy a bionic instead, they are the exact same price and almost exact same geo but from a reliable company. Anyways as for the frame it self it feels decent. Flexes a medium amount. The geo specs speak the rest it will feel the same as any other bike with the same geo. The weight is wrong too I am pretty sure I think its heavier than they claim. For neon products it seems more sturdy than most.

So what your saying is the brake will not touch the rim?

cheers

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So what your saying is the brake will not touch the rim?

cheers

yes unless you run the wheel normally with snail cams. I mean if you slam the wheel all the way into the dropout it will not work. I always slam my hub all the way in so the wheel doesn't shift around when I ride.

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yes unless you run the wheel normally with snail cams. I mean if you slam the wheel all the way into the dropout it will not work. I always slam my hub all the way in so the wheel doesn't shift around when I ride.

mod frames arn't designed for that though because the frames are designed to be used with snail cams so the mounts are position acordingly for the brake as the wheel will have to be moved back for tension.

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mod frames arn't designed for that though because the frames are designed to be used with snail cams so the mounts are position acordingly for the brake as the wheel will have to be moved back for tension.

I know, but lots of frames do work when its slammed in all the way. Most people run cams, but in case he didn't it would be usful to know.

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I know, but lots of frames do work when its slammed in all the way. Most people run cams, but in case he didn't it would be usful to know.

Cheers for advice man, so from experience would you purchase another because frame? or should i steer clear?

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All the Neon frames I've got and weighed are spot on or rarely within a gram or two - which is acceptable.

As far as their components go, its pretty spot on.

Dunno about the Because frames though, but I agree, they seem pretty good value.

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I know, but lots of frames do work when its slammed in all the way. Most people run cams, but in case he didn't it would be usful to know.

Not most, every (or chain tugs)

Why not use cams yourself?

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Not most, every (or chain tugs)

Why not use cams yourself?

I find the wheel shifts around too much when I use them. The left bolt always moves right (away from the frame) leaving my wheel crooked. I don't know why slamming it prevents this. Theoretically it should still be able to move away from the frame but somehow it doesn't when its slammed. The other main advantage to slamming is mechanically its a lot easier. You don't have to set your chain tension or center the wheel, and bolts can't go in crooked. With cams sometimes one side will be closer to the frame than the other and when you ride they center out leaving your wheel crooked. I would use them if I had no choice, but if I can avoid using them its one less thing to worry about. The other thing is geometry. Changing your chainstay length 1cm totally will screw up your riding completely. I don't like the idea of changing my geo to adjust chain tension. With slammed its consistant geometry

Edited by sayshell
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With slammed its consistant geometry

No, it's the opposite.

The chain stay length is determined by the lengths of the links in the chain at 18:12 gearing (hence why you can't have a 362 CS length, and a 363CS length frames). Slamming your wheel up against the dropouts on one frame might alter the CS length than on another frame when both frames have the same CS length, as it depends on the length of the dropout.

What will change the geo is if you like your chain really tight or really slack, but it'll only effect it slightly.

How do you even get a good tension on the chain?

Have you ever used toothed cams?

Edited by JT!
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No, it's the opposite.

The chain stay length is determined by the lengths of the links in the chain at 18:12 gearing (hence why you can't have a 362 CS length, and a 363CS length frames). Slamming your wheel up against the dropouts on one frame might alter the CS length than on another frame when both frames have the same CS length, as it depends on the length of the dropout.

What will change the geo is if you like your chain really tight or really slack, but it'll only effect it slightly.

How do you even get a good tension on the chain?

Have you ever used toothed cams?

I either get perfect chain tension by fiddling with +1 tooth cogs or -1 tooth or run one of these

http://labs.yesspro.com/products/etr-horizontal

Another problem I had is gears are never made perfect so the chain tension has tight and loose spots so the spring tensioer balances that all out. If you slam the wheel and have perfect chain tension than its basically impossible to take your wheel off so I usually have it slightly loose and run a tensioner. You make me want to try snaiil cams again its 40 grams lighter hehe but wheel shift annoys me too much.

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I either get perfect chain tension by fiddling with +1 tooth cogs or -1 tooth or run one of these

http://labs.yesspro.com/products/etr-horizontal

Another problem I had is gears are never made perfect so the chain tension has tight and loose spots so the spring tensioer balances that all out. If you slam the wheel and have perfect chain tension than its basically impossible to take your wheel off so I usually have it slightly loose and run a tensioner. You make me want to try snaiil cams again its 40 grams lighter hehe but wheel shift annoys me too much.

That's fair enough i suppose.

I had a little trouble with chain tugs, and cams without teeth. I don't know why, really they both should hold the wheel fine, but only cams with teeth is the only thing I've been happy with. They hold the wheel wherever you set them.

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