UK_SPAWN Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hi guys. Been having problems with chain rub and was reccomended to check the spacers on the axle. At the moment the wider spacer is fit on the disk side and a smaller one on drive side. Is that the correct way? If i swap them will my disk still be alighned? Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCOTTY___ Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 MIght be worth posting pictures of the issue. Could be the axel spacers as you mentioed.. but also the BB could be to long or the spacers there aswell. Clutching at straws with writing stuff on here, get pictures up! P.S. Sad to hear your having issue with the bike you bought of Connor. Reason i walked away from the buy was his inconsistant answers and the sketchy-ness of the bikes condition after all the chopping & changing. Hope the forum can help you resolve the issues you have dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_SPAWN Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Yeah i was going to go and look at it first but was like 400mile round trip... Its not a bad bike just not been well looked after parts wise. He said there is no bike shop near him so i guess he just improvised/botched what he could. Iv got pics will upload in a moment. Cheers bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Post a pic of the bike from behind, at just above axle level, looking straight down the chainline. Then post one of the bb area form the drive side. Hopefully someone will be able to shed some light on it. It'll be summat simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_SPAWN Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/4523/20130513133529.jpg http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/1728/20130513133544.jpg http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/7638/20130513133605.jpg http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/8656/20130513133652.jpg http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8026/20130513134019.jpg Please copy/paste the links as the pics are too large to attach. If you need to see anything else just say. Thanks for the help. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Chain is miles too big for a start, looks like a gusset tank. the chainline looks ok from what I can make out, and the spacers are fine. Get a kmc610 chain, and that freewheel looks like an acs claw. Change it for something better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_SPAWN Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Freewheel is a shimano cuz thats all i could get for free lol its a 30 click bmx one. I thought the chain was too wide too and the link you take it off.with sticks.out even further and i guess thats whats rubbing. What about freewheel offsets? Is that where the teeth are positioned? If So what offset.do i need.to make.the chain run closer to the BB? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Get a proper trials freewheel, they are a lot narrower and will allow you to use a spacer between it and the bashring. You should be able to get a better position on the cranks. Get a tensile or an echo sl freewheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_SPAWN Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Ah so i can run ring + spacer.. I didnt know that. Ill keep posting my progress. But im guna ride now sick of tinkering Im going to have a good trawl through tarty and check all the freewheels n spacing/offsets/compatability etc. But ill just havto go steady for now. Im only just starting up again after a.long time so wont be doing anything drastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 They are all pretty much the same thickness, give or take a mm. And they are all the same thread on tartys, so any of them will fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_SPAWN Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 So u say i should have the bashring,then a spacer then a narrow freewheel. Sounds good will the crank have enought thread for all that though?On the spacer it says " for no bash ring use" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 You might not need one. It depends on your chainline. The best thing to do is to put the freewheel on your crank when you get it, and put it on finger tight, then put your crank on and do the crank bolt right up. Then have a look at your chain line to see where it is. The beauty of having it finger tight is so you can easily take it off to adjust it. Then once you have the right chainline, ride it to tighten it up. Go to your local bike shop and get some metal bb spacers of varying thickness. Or get some off crc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_SPAWN Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Im gunna have another go at removing the tryall freewheel soon. The schimano one allready is sounding bad and had a little clunk last night... Atleast it gave me my first (very hesetant) ride on the bike. Must say other than this, the bike is super smooth. The guy says he will refund me 40 for the problems as he claims he was unaware of them. This means i paid 460 posted, which i am more happy with having to spend time on. The HOPE trialtech n mono trial hold my maximum force and never sliped through in the wet. Bike feels nice on back wheel and seems easier to rotate the entire bike.. than my 221ti anyway. Very hapy guy now having had a ride.. Just wonna thank you all for help. Cheers all, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 The shimano freewheel won't stand up to trials usage, the 'clunk' you heard will be it skipping. Minimum you should get is a tensile 60click Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_SPAWN Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) Take a look at those pics. Do you think if i can get the bashring off wih the grinder it will allow the freewheel to be loose? Ps: i dont need the crank arm/ can be destroyed if it gets it off! Edited May 14, 2013 by UK_SPAWN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_SPAWN Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 I have that try all one but cant get it off.. Need a vice + long bar or a very good large spanner not the adjustable i have and a 10lb lump hammer lol. i need ideas that cost nothing as im skint. Theres a garage up the street but am a but wary or just randomly askin a car garage "hay can u help.me.with this/can i use.ur vice please?" Mite stop.bein a fanny n just ask em all thy can say is no! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) Why not? I do it all the time, kwik fit always let me use theirs, it only takes ten seconds with a big bar. Put the tool in the vice with it all bolted together, and put a piece of tube on the end of the arm. Apply lots of brute force and swearing, and it should come off Edited May 14, 2013 by bing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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