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Rc Car Boys, Look In!


Rob_P
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Rite boys and girls

Decided to sort me petrol car out as it hasnt been used in ages.

This is she here.......

IPB Image

So I charge glow plugs, all batts etc etc. Wack some blue thunder in, try and start....

Now what it keeps doing is starting, then just cuts out. I think it's because I havent used it in so long, but the head still gets hot etc. It kinda goes, weeeeeeeeeeeeEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE..... dead.

Because I havent used it in so long and I know there are a few into this on here so thought i'd ask what the secrets are cus i've forgotten everything (N)

Like how many turns do you undo the petrol switch, and the carb hole etc. I dont know wheather it's becauese it's got too much petrol going through and flooding it or not enough. I've tried alot of combos etc like blowing petrol through etc etc but I just cant get it to stay on for long enough to warm up and drive it.

Heres the three things I cant remember how to adjust......

IPB Image

Any help MUCH MUCH appreciated

This car is for sale btw, ask me any questions you have if interested

(Y)(Y)

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Hi you might have to tune the carb (1 on your picture) so its revving a bit less. If that doesn't work if you still have the manual then out everything back to the factory settings then start again by running in the engine and setting the car etc. Hope it works (Y)

Edited by fredrico
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price? :-

Pm'd you (Y)

Just looked in the instruction manual and it's just pages of how to assemble it, even though it came 90% assembled anyway :ermm: Nothing about setting it up etc which is a fat lot of good

Edited by Rob P
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turn the carb (no1 in the pic) in all the way then turn out 2 1/2 turns, then because it hasent been run in so long put some fuel straight into the engien and pull the pull start a few times (without the glow plug in) then try and start it again if it does start leave it to tick over for about 10 minuits DO NOT rev it as soon as you get it running as this will sease the engien

sam

Edited by wad
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You mean put some fuel in the purple head where the spark plug goes? or in number 2?

I've tried that and the pull start goes tight as f**k, so have to pull the pull start without the plug in so all the fuel comes out the head.

Cheers, I thought it was about 2 1/2 (Y)

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Engine manufacturers often include base-line settings for the mixture needles, so it’s wise to start with these. If this information is not provided, then you must arrive at needle settings that will get the engine started. A universal starting point is usually about 1 turn open (counterclockwise) on the low-speed needle and somewhere in the 2- to 3-turn range on the high-speed needle. This varies among engines, but it gets you started running, and then you can make the necessary corrections. After the initial startup, follow the proper break-in procedure, then worry about performance tuning!

The proper sequence for adjusting the mixture needles is hotly debated. When you start to fine-tune the engine, it’s generally best to start with the high-speed needle, then set the low-speed. First, however, get your engine running, and keep it running before you worry about race tuning.

During break-in, the engine typically idles a long time, so it’s best to adjust the low-speed setting first so the engine runs slightly rich (loading up every 30 seconds or so). It requires an occasional “blip” of the throttle to clear out any raw fuel that has accumulated in the engine. Once break-in is finished, then get the high-speed needle in the ballpark.

Place the car on the ground and accelerate smoothly to give the engine a chance to build some heat. With the high-speed needle in the proper range, the engine should be able to rev relatively well up to full speed once it has been running for a few minutes on the track or parking lot.

FINE-TUNING

A word of caution first: there’s a fine line between the perfect tune and a blown or damaged engine. Nitro-engine fuel also contains engine lubricant, so as you get close to dialing in the mixture to where there is just enough fuel to burn and deliver maximum power, you also are close to having just enough oil to keep the engine lubricated. Anyone with experience in tuning 2-stroke engines can tell you that they run best right before they seize or blow up. Our engines are a little tougher and more capable of taking some abuse than bigger 2-strokes, but there’s no sense in pushing the mixture settings so lean that you risk damage to the engine. I can’t say this too often: get the engine up to full running temperature by running the car exactly as you would on the track or parking lot.

Is that any good to you? :closedeyes:

Adam

Edited by Punkrider
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1st, i seriously suggest you get an air filter or you engine will die VERY quickly.

If the fuel is old, this might be one of the main problems, try fresh fuel. If the bottle was half used, and has been standing in a light place and/or damp place it is likely to be way past its best- nitro fuel is very hygroscopic (yes, thats wit a G not D) and absorbs moisture from the aptmosphere very readily, even if sealed.

as has been said, 2.5 to 3 turns anti clock wise from fully in should get it started, if not try it so the screw is flush to the sleeve.

carb should be open abotu 1mm at idle.

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Ok thats cool cheers, i'll try some fresh fuel as mines been sitting for a while in the garage.

LOL of course i've got an air filter ;) took it off for pics.....

Na glow plugs work fine, they brighten the spark plug striaght away in my hand

(Y)

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Ok went and bought some brand spanking new fuel (tornado) £15 :(

Anyway, IT WORKED!!!!!!! lol

Sweet cheers guys, new fuel it was then, works fine but just needs a good few tanks running through it :)

So then anyone interested?

I'll take £160 with 2 glow plugs, 4 new tyres on new wheels, brand new fuel (if I can post it that is) 12 recharable batts, 2 crystals, shell, fuel bottle etc etc and all the other bits and bobs that come with it.

Btw, I paid £280 for the car (Y)

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