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Pad Bodge?


Dan6061

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As many of you may already know, I got my bike back today.

I put my new wheel on, and my back brake doesn't feel as nice.

It locks and everything, but the lever comes too far for my liking.

And the tpa is all the way, and the cylinders are a s close to the rim as possible.

I think it need a bleed too.

Also, the pads (Plaz) are hardly worn, so I don't want to buy new pads.

Got no money :$

I've seen people attach other backings to their current pads, but I think that'll be too much?

Could try it though...

Any more ideas? (Y)

EDIT: Changed topic title slightly

Edited by Dan6061
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If the pads hit the rim and then the lever comes in significantly after that a bleed would probobly work well, also, if you pull the lever and there is no movement at the pads, that would indicate a bit of air in the system too.

With my TPA, I can adjust it but there is no noticable pad movement at the cylinders, I don't know if that should be the case or not.....

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make sure to bleed with the TPA fully unscrewed, and not to play with the lever while the pads havn't anything to press against, I believe that can screw things up somewhat.

If you've bled and positioned the pads close to the rim, once the pad's hit the rim, the lever shouldn't come much closer, even if it does, you wont gain much power at the brake, chances are your stays will just flex more.

Like I said, if you pull the lever and there is no response at the cylinder's there's air in the system somehow. If you pull to the point where the pads are touching the rim and the lever come's in more, again it's either flex, or air in the system...... (Y)

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dude, it sounds like everything that can be f**ked up about a magura has happened to your brake. why do you think it's the pads? unless you're running some narrow-ass rim on a frame not meant for it, then tpa all the way in and cylinders as close as possible to the rim doesn't happen. just start all over.

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Zona Zip with a Ronnie.

I don't think the brake's fooked at all :ermm:

I'll bleed it tomorrow. As I can't be bothered now plus my mate has my syringe :rolleyes:

I didn't say I thought it was the pads at all...

I said It can't be them, because they're hardly worn.

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could try an "over bleed", i read this once, that when you are bleeding the brake get a friend to pull on the pads so that the pistons are already a bit further out than they usually would sit, then you wouldn't need to pull the lever to move the pads as much??

don't know if it will work, just an idea that i have heared before.

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could try an "over bleed", i read this once, that when you are bleeding the brake get a friend to pull on the pads so that the pistons are already a bit further out than they usually would sit, then you wouldn't need to pull the lever to move the pads as much??

don't know if it will work, just an idea that i have heared before.

Nice idea, but like he said, his pads are close enough to the rim.

It really sounds like you just need a bleed.

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cylinders are as close asposible not pads!! (Y)

If he has pads in the cylinders, and his pads are not significantly worn, the pads will be closer to the rim than the cylinder as they protrude more.

He has pads in the cylinder's and he has said they are not very worn......

An 'over bleed' wont be of use to him. :rolleyes:

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How far away from the rim are the pads? Got any pics? Simple really, if theres not much gap between the rim and pads, and its still not biting right, you need a bleed.

Easy way to tell if youve got air in there - loosen off TPA - pull lever lightly - do the pads move as soon as you pull the lever? If not - air.

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make sure to bleed with the TPA fully unscrewed

Most important thing right there ^.

Your problem dosn't really make any sence. From what i hear your pads can't be moving at all. If your pads are dead close to the rim, there should be no problem, there could be a serious amount of air in the system, or maby it's leaking slowly.

The only thing you can do is bleed it (like said above) and if that dosn't work somethings really fooked.

Edited by JT!
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