Magura?

[BIG L]

I know this has probably been asked a hundred times but i cant find it how do you bleed a magura hs33 and what tools do you need? again sorry if it has been asked before im new!

[yoyoyo]

If a you have a bath handy.

Try here

[Joe_Kearney]

Click here <-<- There's a guide picked up from FAQ if you use the seach function you'll find plenty more details they're as common as sliced bread is great.

Edit: I'm not as quick as i used to be, beaten by the fast show guy

Edited June 2, 2006 by Joe_Kearney

[MaXsteri]

Magura Cult page

[T.McMillan]

I know this has probably been asked a hundred times but i cant find it how do you bleed a magura hs33 and what tools do you need? again sorry if it has been asked before im new!

here is the magura manual if you have got Adobe Acrobat Reader Click Here Magura Manual

The filling and bleeding of a MAGURA brake is not a routine work. This is due

to the fact that the MAGURA Royal Blood hydraulic oil does not absorb water like

DOT brake liquid in cars and on motorcycles. A filling and bleeding of a MAGURA

is therefore only necessary in case of an incorrect installation or a tubing change

after a crash. Only use MAGURA Royal Blood hydraulic oil, never DOT brake liquid!

1. The service kit contains everything you need which you need for bleeding or repairing

your MAGURA brake.

Push (by hand) a barbed fitting into both the transparent filler and vent

tubes.

2. Put the filler tube on the syringe and fill completely with MAGURA ROYAL BLOOD

mineral oil. In the case of an emergency, cooking oil will work, but needs to be flushed out

after the return to civilization. Never use DOT brake liquid! Pay close attention not to

have any air in the tube or syringe. Remove bleed screw (5mm allen screw) at the

slave cylinder. Fit filled syringe and filler tube and fix it with an 8mm open end wrench.

3. HS 33: Turn the brake lever (HS 33) on the handlebar from the horizontal position

until it is in the shown 20° angle. Turn back fully the TPA knob in the “-” position.

HS 11: Turn the brake lever on the handlebar horizontal. Turn fully back the 4 mm pad adjustment

screw.

Remove the bleed screw in the brake lever.

4. Install the vent tube and hold its end into the oil bottle.

5. Push the oil through the system. Use the whole content of the syringe. You can

see air in the form of small bubbles in the vent tube.

6. The bleeding procedure is completed when no more air bubbles can be seen in the

vent tube.Remove the vent tube and replace the bleed

screw. (Tightening torque 4 Nm/ 34 in.lbs).Remove syringe from slave cylinder and

replace the bleed screw. (Tightening torque 4 Nm/ 34 in.lbs). Return brake lever to its

normal riding position, and clamp correctly. (Tightening torque 4 Nm/ 34 in.lbs).

They system is correctly bled when the pads move immediately upon

activating the lever-blade. Adjust the pad/rim clearance with the TPA or the

allen adjustment bolts (see chapter maintenance/pad change). Check the entire

system for oil leaks. Check the flawless performance, high power and excellent

modulation.

Edited June 2, 2006 by speedyjustice

[BIG L]

If a you have a bath handy.

Try here

Nice one mate helped alot but wont the water wreck the maguras?

[ridemechanic]

Right m8, here goes.

What you could really do with is a Magura specific bleed kit, which comes with the bleed pot and the syringe, which is basically all you need.

What you do is attach the syringe to the top of the lever by unscrewing the free bolt-although this depends on what year your brakes are.

Then you attach the bleed pot to the spare nut/bolt/whatever on your left calliper(this depends on what way your looking at the bike). After that its pretty easy as you just push the syringe and the old brake fluid will come out in the bleed pot and then the fluid inside the hoses is gonna be your new stuff.

Good luck, but bleeding Mags is a lot easier then some other hydraulics.

By the way, MAKE SURE YOUR TPA SCREW IS LOSENED OFF, otherwise your bleed the hydraulics and then when you come to tightening the pull/push, you wont be able to tighten the brake any further!!!

Edited June 2, 2006 by ridemechanic

[Lawnmowerman]

It's a lot easier if you use a syringe at either end, one for pumping and one for collecting. That way there is no chance of getting air into the system and it's a lot cleaner. Make sure you always have one syringe attached as leaving them both off will leave you with a very slippery floor

[Clawz114]

Or if you buy a magura bleed kit you can use the vent tube instead of another syringe. get the heatsink bleed kit, its very cheap but it does the job

[_Owen.]

why not just buy a magura bleed kit. i no they cost more but surley they are the best way to bleed ?

[Jaffacakes]

All you need is two alan keys to undo the bleed bolts.

Put the whole break in the bath without the pads on and take off the bleed bolts and loosen off the TPA fully.

Put your finger over the hole on the lever that you took the bolt out so it's air tight then pull the lever, Take your finger off the hole then release the lever, then put your finger over the hole and pull the lever, then take your finger off and release the lever. Do this about 10 times if your break is bled with water and about 30 if its bled with oil.

Just remember when your bleeding a break all your doing is flushing liquid through it, not trying to cram more in there.