Le @ Tnn Engineering

Could you please measure how much you brake booster flexes under normal use? 1-2 mm of flex is normal unless your applying more braking force than required under normal riding conditions. Here's a trick if you want less flex and more solid lever feel. Loosen off the lower bolt on one clamp which holds the booster. Now with needle nose pliers flex the booster outwards 1-1.5mm by squeezing the booster and the clamp. While booster is flexed outward tighten clamp. What this does is preload the booster so once the brake is applied the bulk of the flex is already preloaded out of the booster. Having said this all boosters flex even ones which weigh twice as much as a TNN.

I totally understand why these threads are started. There is nothing more frustrating then forking out good money and spending your time to achieve the perfect set up after reading countless brake threads. Then when all is well everything turns pear shaped and your brakes stop working. Very painful. I spend so much time answering emails on this subject and this is what I have found out. 1. If your brake isn't performing all of a sudden regrind. 9/10 times this will fix the issue. 2. If this doesn't work you most likely have a contamination problem. You maybe in denyl about it but it's very likely. As with disc brake the tiniest amount of oil will kill your brake performance. Oil + maguras means this happens more than we would like. A leaking fitting on the slave cylinder or a leaking slave cylinder piston behind the pad will over time will make there way to the braking surface and game over. You'll need new refills and a regrind end of story. 3. If your brake is working and you happy with it. Don't touch it. Besides regrinding and keeping the slave cylinders clean and oil free. Don't change anything. Keep you grind fresh and you rim/pads contamination free and 99% of you issues will be gone. Me and Lewis Greenhalgh spent hours trying to right his brake set up tried eveything and nothing worked. What happened is that a small amount of oil from the wheel building process got onto the rim and impregnated into the pad. We sanded the pads down 0.5 mm and still no good. The oil was deep in the pads. Solution new refills and regrind and the brake is still perfect 3 month later.

It sounds easy but is a little tricky these instructions will help. Available on TNN fb http://www.facebook.com/pages/TNN-Engineering/115080868529549 Or right here. #1 Push the star nut down just so the brace is 3mm below the top of the carbon steerer tube. #2 Undo the stem this will allow the steerer tube to open slightly. Otherwise brace will not slide in. #3 Wind a bolt into the brace so you can handle it more easily once it's covered in glue. #4 Be very generous with the epoxy glue application inside the steerer tube and on the outside of the brace. Don't be concerned about excess glue it can be wiped away. It's important to fill the gap between the steerer and brace with epoxy glue. #5 Allow 12 hrs for glue to fully cure/harden before reassembling bike and riding.

Water/dirt,mud can have huge effect on braking. I'm thinking since you've changed you rim you need to give the pads time to re-bed in to the new rim. That would explain the squishy lever feel. Once the pads are contacting the rims 100% the brake should feel solid again. I get this each time I put on new pads until they have bedded into the rim's shape/angle. Let me know if you still have any issues.

Here's what my riders and myself have to say about the blacks. Modulation,Bite and Hold better than the Belaey's and very close to the beastly LGM. Performance consistency is excellent and wear is better than Belaey's. Here's the TNN compounds in a nut shell. -LGM street,big moves,Harsh grind,No modulation,Big locking power,wet. Smooth rim Modulation and holding power. No wet. -Belaey's street and natural,med grind,modulation,locking power,wet,muddy,dusty. Very consistent compound. -Blacks I'd say the blacks are Belaey's on steroids. Will be cheaper too.

Sometimes they can be tight first time you fit them. What I do is install the brake on bike as normal but o-ring not in the slave cylinder yet. Tighten all the clamps and squeeze your brake the force of the brake pushing the pad onto the rim will get the o-ring on the slave cylinders no worries.

A well set up vee brake will out perform a magura everyday of the week. Important things are half decent calipers and lever plus a quality cable linear slick is a popular choice. LGV pads and the fresh grind and a booster aren't as important as you'd think. But here are the downsides. Cable stretch is very noticeable and the brake is slow to release the rim compared with a magura. But I can live with both. For the unmatchable locking power.

I've ridden the forks for a while and am quite happy with the geo and stiffness. I'm not hard on forks and have test rider who are so they are doing the long term testing. Which leaves me free to try out these carbon forks. Once they break I will be going back to tnn forks.

I didn't really understand why Lewis called the video "NUTS" but after watching it it all makes perfect sense. Thanks Lewis. Hope you all enjoy.

John just keeps getting better and better. Sweet job on the edit Dave especially the last clip.

Great riding from you and Allan considering the especially windy and wet conditions. Huge bunnyhop too.

You guessed right we just put that skinny line in for fun.

Certain frames make more brake noise than others too. Main thing is if you brake is performing don't stress too much about how loud they are.

Sure no problem To have your brake performing perfectly and then just stop can't be because of the pads. Something must have happened to stop the pad gripping on the rim. Generally speaking I would think a small amount of contamination. Which could be anything most of the time the rider doesn't even realise.

You want to get platform pedals with threaded bolts or grub screws. Rather then plain pins. Caged pedals are good but the aluminum cage loses it's shape edge which grip your shoe quickly. After that they go downhill.