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super

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Posts posted by super

  1. Mine seems to be better without. Was running an echo two bolt but for some reason (after about 6 months without a problem)the slaves started slipping through the mounts, so started the investigation by taking the booster off...... solved the problem and the brake was awesome.

    Running TNN greens on trialtech rim.

  2. It would work better upside down surely? Thus illuminated any flex in the bolts. Its a spanking idea however, and I'd have one but the final hurdle, which is the big one, is the general low rent quality control on many trials products which relates to the frame width etc and the extremely shallow pockets of most riders (partly down to age).

    I think Peter Cole should sell the idea (although they will no doubt steal it anyway) to Lord Deng. Trials frames should incorporate the bottom half the a mount into the CNC's booster area that they already have. Saves weight, reduces flex and reduces the height the brake set-up protrudes.

    I've been wondering why they haven't got round to doing this for a long time! After the introduction of inbuilt boosters the next step seemed obviously to mount the slave directly so that you'd only ever need the top mounts.

  3. You do know the topic title is supposed to let people know what the topic is about right?

    Look in the for sale section?

    How on earth have you got this far in life?

    :lol::lol::rolleyes:

    • Like 1
  4. I did have a similar problem a couple of years ago when i had an old worn Rain King that i was trying out for the first time. When i bought a new one it was fine. This doesn't really help if your after a solution but at least you know your not the only one!

  5. Thought it would be pretty clear from the photos, but will stick it on the 'to do' list.

    If you run a Z610 HX (which everyone should be :P) then it clears fine - JUST!

    That's exactly what i'm running, and it does rub the spokes without the spacer. It's on a new pure with tryall cranks and echo sl freewheel.

  6. I'm running an echo 15t on the slightly older silver tryall hub (i'm sure it's almost exactly the same as an "h") and i had to put a spacer in between the hub and the cog to stop the chain rubbing the spokes. You'll prob need the same ;)

  7. Buying a half decent tube set is going to cost you quite a bit.

    You'll need access to mills and lathes unless you want to pay out extra for having someone do that for you.

    You'll need to learn how to weld (properly).

    Then you'll need to find somewhere to get the thing heat treated which is going to add more £££

    Altogether it'll end up being quite costly.

    I'm not trying to put you off - just be prepared for alot of hard work to get anywhere near a result you'll be happy with.

  8. Spray the forks the same blue as the frame. As for stem and bars i reckon matching them in to the colours of your wheelset can work really well, so if you've got silver hubs and black rims then get a silver stem and and black bars. having said that i think it only works if the colours are fairly neutral, and of course depends on what other colours you got going on. You don't want be rolling on a rainbow. :giggle:

  9. Sounds like there's something up there. Are both readings actual readings and not estimates?

    Turn off all the taps in the house and go and check to see if the meter is still ticking over. Obviously if it is then you've got a leak somewhere and i think that anything from the meter back is your responsibility so you'll be wanting to put a stop to it asap.

  10. I find myself asking: why wouldn't you wear a helmet?

    I wear my helmet every time I go out and have done for about the last year or two.

    The previous 9-10 years of trials riding were a different matter, had never even put one.

    I do think high profile/sponsored riders have a moral obligation to set a good example to the younger riders.

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