super
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Posts posted by super
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What a beast.
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Awesome bit of kit that, would be nice to see some detailed pics of dropouts / bb yoke / seaatstay-toptube join to appreciate the craftsmanship.
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I'm running a rockman 127x27o with trialtechs and it feels really nice
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Double the chance of a fail.
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Nevermind the carbon forks, what about the fact that it's "a heavy street frame" with a bb height of +60mm???????
Also 116mm spacing doesn't belong on a stock.
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Do you mean Account Number?
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Don't know what forks your running at the moment but trialtechs are a little bit longer than most other forks out there i believe.
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2011's entire lever body is made of cheese!
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Caustic is good at killing rust. However dipping your whole frame might be a bit tricky - you could always do it in the bath and leave it to soak for an hour. As soon as it comes out you'll have to dry it and then coat it with something to stop it corroding again.
You'll also want be careful with any caustics cause they're pretty nasty if you get it in your eyes etc.
Bilt Hamber - Deox C seems quite popular amongst automotive restoration people, might be worth a try but i don't think it's particularly cheap.
It'll prob be quite a long time before you see any significant structural problems with rust.
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Or from me, i've got a pair of unused 09 echo slaves. PM me if your interested.
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Effortless!
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Well, considering the amount of flex you get in spokes compared to the axial play of the hub shell joining the two flanges together i'd say not far off 50%.
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Wouldn't work on the rear.
Works on the front because almost all the load on the hub is radial, if you ran it as a rear hub only the drive side spokes spokes would transfer force to the rim (in the same way you couldn't run a frant disc hub like this).
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I'll probably roll out for a bit, copthorne at 11-12ish is it?
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This one's going to be Marmite. I like it!
I complettly agree and totaly disagree with this statement.
Hate it.
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Picking up on what Ali C was saying, There isn't any science behind this but i'm sure that the best vids are when people are just out there having fun as opposed to feeling pressured to nail a big lines. I'm fairly sure this is something that comes with getting a bit older-you really just start not caring what others think of your riding.
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Nice bit of riding there. You look quite at home on a bike, have you been riding long?
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Most of that looks like your not even trying!
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Never thought i'd see a hook on a unicycle!
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Yes you can, but you'll have to find someone with an oven big enough!
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It will be good as gold as long as you get it heat treated properly afterwards. Take it to a professional fabricator and they will be able to advise you
What this man says is true but it will be expensive to get it heat treated.
Best bet would be to ride it for a while and only get it welded if / when the crack starts to grow.
You can score a couple of marks at each end of the crack to keep an eye on how fast it's growing.
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Scroll down to 'wringing': http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_block
The pads are VERY smooth on their surface from new, so once they bed in or the rim is slightly dirty, performance will drop off very quickly
Had the same thing with Monty pads on a D521CD rim back in the day.I used to make and calibrate the highest grade gauge blocks and i can assure you that the kind of flatness required for wringing gauges properly is a long way from the "flat" surface of a brake pad or rim.
Plymouth Christmas Eve Ride
in Member Organised Rides
Posted
I'm in.
Dress code this year?