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well I asked tarty because when I last checked this thread (thurs or friday night I think, I forget) it wasn't going anywhere and got impatient. Anyway adam replied that the pads I have are thse sintered ones so thats what I'm gonna buy. The performance is more than enough for what I need, they don't glaze over from heat too bad (like organic compounds are famous for) and the wear life is brilliant. this is the first set of pads i'm buying for my brake and I bought it late summer 2009, enough said. Thanks for your help people.

as the title says really. I want to replace the pads I bought with my bb7 but I don't know which compound is which my current ones look like this http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/images/custom/large_bb7pads.jpg Cheers all.

how do you that on a flat-ish rock or the like. Same technique?

could someone explain the difference between a 'linear' cable and a standard one like my well lubed wilko one. And the perfomance benefits of course...

You are joking right? Freewheel for the win. Never used anything else & i'm not going to change now. (I use other peoples 1st hand expiriences as evidence BTW)

It's for a hub not a set of cranks but your answer gives me hope EDIT: Just re-read your post. What i'm planning (just to make it crystal clear for everyone) is to put a freewheel spacer like this: http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?product_id=10962 behind the sprocket on my hub so the chain moves toward the frame. Sorry if I didn't make that clear the first time round.

That's the one, but mine wasn't a standard spec, (It changed several times).

Sorted the headset out when I gave it a proper look at. Now just the question about using that spacer to sort now.

I'm going to put my two cents in by saying this: My 07 team took approx. 2 and a half years to crack and my equally skilled mate's lynx took on and off (he swapped to a maladeath for 6 months inbetween) took approx. 14 months to crack. For people such as myself who want longevity over low weight this is what matters. Given that the price was right, I would buy another 07 in a heartbeat. IMO they were built properly. End of.

So I was test fitting the parts I bought and have worked out the easy stuff (like where the bearings go and such) but the headset came with 3 shims that arn't pictured on tarty. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/images/headsets/large_atomz2.jpg So what are they for and more importantly where do they go? they look like the ones pictured on the hope headset http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?product_id=10147&category_id=88 so do they serve the same purpose? Also the chainline is gonna be miles out unless I space it out. The spacer off my crank arms (the one instead of a rockring) fits perfectly but will doing this strip the theads on my hub or do any other damage? Sorry for esay peeps and all help appreciated. Thanks Ciaran

I never knew there was a proper tool for the job (a piccy would be nice, I'm curious) I used a pair of circlip pliers of my 96, putting the prongs in the two holes with a good ol' amount of downward pressure and twisted the lockring. hope this helps. Ciaran.

Ditto ^ And onza have already done a TGS 24 (of sorts), The ORIGINAL zoot http://www.trials-uk.co.uk/files/ecomproducts-image-1737.jpg The fact that the pic is off T-uk should tell you how long ago that was.

What about your products mike? Any going TB's way?? (I want some Pads and Phluid at some point in the future and have no paypal ) Edit: another 24 that I never heard of cos TB don't stock it http://www.trial-bikes.com/ozonys-king-dunce-street-frame-p-53632.html?azx=978 There's also a TGS 24 on there as well. Thoughts please.

This. I swapped to big boy wheels earlier this year and have improved sh*t loads. If I hadn't put the groundwork in on a mod however, I don't think I'd be half as good. Am I right in saying you have both mod and stock? In which case I personally would debuild the stock, put it in the attic in a box and crack it out in 6 months/a year or so and re-evaluate.

I've used LHM oil after asking on here. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=106187&st=0&p=1373268&fromsearch=1&#entry1373268 Make ur own mind up. My biggest problem is the syringes, I just break em! (the slider pulls out of the top) Anyone know of stronger alternatives? I use the tarty ones at the moment BTW.

From memory he said on here (TF), he had a lot of stuff on at the time and HSB just sorta slid down his list of priorities. Understandable like.

gutted about ur ankle tom!! Is worse than last time then? Come over barrow when ur fixed up, Spring time maybe? It's bloody freezing round this way at the mo... EDIT: adams up 2 front picture - anyone else think he looks like tarty adam...

It's aimed at junior comp riders. The 70kg weight limit is a bitch, 70kg = 11 stone

I agree with the person who said that there should be frames out there in the £450 - £800 bracket that use the high price to make them nukeproof, (and I referenced the nukeproof MTB brand on purpose BTW), using the obviously very talented frame designers, metalergists and engineers that Koxx must have to produce such frames. THIS sort of frame I would pay £800 for... EDIT: And the maladies IMO ride pretty dam good while they last. 2 mates of mine have had one each and both cracked at the BB shell/yoke within warranty. Make up your own conclusions.

At this rate matthew i am going to have to change my name by de-poll to brickhead!! Shut up already! And u knows I'm coming anyway.

I bought one of this place http://wtifasteners.co.uk/ 4 £25 all in. (click on products, You want a 'screwdriver type' tread repair kit.) Hope this helps

Is that going to be available to buy as a full bike? I wants one EDIT: is that a onza hydro front brake I spy there? and would all the parts be available separately?

Smidge of loctite like tarty's product photos EG. http://tartybikes.co.uk/images/bbs/large_ta122bb.jpg but copper grease where it's silver for the best of both worlds. oh and make sure it's good and tight so you usually don't have to do it again. If it does come loose, mabye a touch more loctite and try again.

To put a figure on gearing divide the big number by the small one. so 18 divide by 16 = 1.125 18 by 15 = 1.2 16 by 14 = 1.142 (so is inbetween the two) 16 by 13 = 1.230 (so is slightly heavier than 18:15) Assuming you are using the same cranks or least the same length cranks and the same chain or same type of chain (a different weight chain will affect the 'feel') this should all help. Sorry if I've rambled a little.

Or the date stamp is rigged??? Mabye you peeps should facebook it or something. On one hand if it's nicked the rightful owner and bike could be re-united and the pikey ba****d who stole it locked up, and on the other if it is genuine we all say sorry to the seller and they have got some free advertising. What do you think?