La Bourde
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Posts posted by La Bourde
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4 hours ago, Canardweb said:
I would not trust YT one bit.
Can you develop why?
Too me he seems to be quite "emotional" and to have a limited know-how in mechanical engineering. He is a prorider and not an engineer (see edit). But at the end, I think he speaks from his own experience and it seems to me fair, although maybe too impulsive.
I cannot recall exactly who were the other riders, but I think they were French (John Langlois maybe?)
A lot of the pro street trial riders now ride with I9 hubs. Is this switch also related?
I have 3 hope Pro IV hubs and no issue at all. But I am neither strong nor heavy nor a good rider.
Edit: I did not mean that all pro riders do not have a sufficient mechanical background or that YT would not be capable of giving a good feedback.
Someone without mechanical background or understanding can deliver a good feedback, mostly independent of a technical solution and its has to be considered.
In addition an engineer or a scientific consider something true until proven otherwise... And assumptions are often wrong...
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On 2/20/2023 at 2:52 PM, sharn said:
Any opinions on what would be the best combination of strength and weight of this type and era of bike?
Also, anyone ever seen this t-rex before?! Seems to have the downtube of the ones limey?! ..The Atomz AKT had a really good call in France. Quite light, stiff and strong. But French people might be too patriotic.
Crewkerz, who is the reincarnation of Atomz has also a good call, at least for the Cleeps (I saw some cracked Jealousy frames).
I think some frames of the Echo/Deng production were quite strong, but heavier.
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Some pro riders (e.g. Yohan Triboulat) had reliability problems with, like skips, broken inner ring or hub shell. The drag is high and sometimes the springs get broken.
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It has potential to become a good alternative, for sure. And their new brakes seem quite amazing too...
Hope it will fix the reliability issue of the pro IV.
Pinkbike mentioned a trials version, but did not see a picture of it.
Nice to see they will be spares for the next 10 years.
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The MBK T1000 geometry was around 1080, 385 and +30, according to some old web pages.
To me, the AKT 2 is a little better with its less exposed chain tensioner and its through rear axle.
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12 hours ago, sharn said:
La bourde, thanks .. I’ll look into the xtp! The mbk have already caught my eye and there’s one for sale not too far from me I may go have a closer look at! The evo2 is a nice looking bike!
anyone know the geo of the atomz akt2 ?
The Atomz Atk II was available in:
short: 1075mm 380mm +35mm 71,5°
long: 1085mm 380mm +35mm 71,5°
I would like to find a short one. It was a really nice bike.
There was two versions, the first one had an external headset and the later one a semi-integrated one.
Atomz Quark II was available in 3 sizes:
S: 1075mm 380mm +45mm 72°
M: 1085mm 380mm +50mm 72°
L: 1095mm 380mm +55mm 72°
I rode a L one after coming back from street trial and the difference was quite huge. It was really light, quite rigid, easy to dent but somehow it seems to be quite reliable.
Then I went for a Crewkerz Cleep2, it feels even more weird first, but now I love this bike so much. I had to change my riding for sure. It is really stiff and works so well on sidehops.
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2 hours ago, sharn said:
Cheers flip! Some of those if never even heard of.. some, like koxx and zoos, echos came in so many models with changing geometry each year I don’t know where to start looking. Is there any kind of legendary archive that I can refer too anywhere?
i vaguely remember the meta! Did it havd A kind of primary blue colour with a huge graphic? Issue being if most are in America I’d end up paying in shipping half of what I’m hoping to pay for a frame?! But it’d be nice to see some footage of one being ridden?Im feeling like the mbk evo2 looks like it has a huge reach with a steep h/a? Anybody know the bb rise and c/s length?
i suppose this will eventually turn into a ‘wanted’ thread, but for know I’m trying to find out what to want!cheers for all help chaps, ‘preciated
The MBK T1000 is around 1080mm, 385mm and +30mm
Evo2 was 1080 mm, 380 mm, +40mm, 71.5°
(Geometry from the manufacturer)
Koxx XTP long? -
8 hours ago, DJEHB said:
That Forbidden is stunning, Druid?
I think this is my new favourite bike, made quite a few adjustments since last post:
- built up an i9 hydra for the rear (thanks Tarts for speedy delivery!)
- pike DJ forks
- new longer rear hose
- removed front brake
- Burgtec 30t sprocket
- shadow supreme chain
- 14t rear
- Burgtec saddle
- stripped the stem and spacers silver
- ODI longnecks
- cut down seatpost
Had an absolutely huge slam at the pump track on Saturday.. 2 front teeth smashed through my face, broken ribs and many other minor injurys. Helmet saved me big time. Anyways, plenty of time on my hands this week so figured I’d do a post.
Get well soon!
Loose also one tooth and broke another one in a crash at the pumptrack
But still love to ride it!
The bike looks sweet. The bottom bracket seems to be quite high too me (for this kind of bikes), which could be great for some trial moves.
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You eventually changed the rear tire?
How is the new spot?
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I like the look too, especially with a rigid fork, but my wrists don't like the idea of riding a rigid fork again on this kind of bikes.
The current sprocket is made of steel and I think it is strong enough, it weights more than 100g. It is no longer true though
I had one made of aluminum and it lasts maybe 6 months.
I am light and I don't do big moves. But you are right, I have also my concerns regarding the fork. I check regularly for cracks. That is why I wanted to save some weight on the frame ... to put a Manitou Circus in 80mm without weight penalty.
But I can't find a white one for a good price currently
The stiffness will be higher and the lockout will be more efficient too, the one on the Reba is somehow weak.
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This week I decided to sell the Octane01 Spark frame.
Unfortunately I noticed a small crack close to the brake mount.
So it seems trials was to harsh for this frame. Rest in peace, spark!
Hope the Majesty will be stronger...
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Amazing effort!
I like also that you detail your components choices.
Wish you a lot of fun on this bike.
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Small updates :-)
Some months ago I bought a new headset from Shadow Conspiracy and some plastic pedals from Cinema. I lowered the bar by removing 8mm spacers.
I had to change the front tire and went for an old Kenda spare.
I eventually found a NS Majesty Park frame.
According to the specs, it has the same geometry as the Spark, but should be lighter.
I had to double check the weight of each frame: the NS is indeed 400g lighter!
I had two sessions on the new frame with exactly the same components and I did not notice any difference in the geometry.
I compared both frames, one next to the other and only the seat tube of the NS is longer and the junction with the top tube higher. That is all! Ok the tubing and the quality is overall better on the NS.
Riding the Majesty feels so similar ... Manuals, bunny, 180°, pedal up. It is the basically same bike. I mean if there is any difference, it is so small, that the rider condition will impact much more the riding!
I was expecting a difference in stiffness, but to my surprise, I have the impression that the Majesty is as stiff as the Spark.
The first few meters on a bike, I really notice the difference of weight and weight distribution. I had the impression the rear end was lighter. Somehow it felt snappier, more responsive. A nice improvement.
Today I changed the bar for a lighter one, put some new grips and change the stem for a 80mm long one, still with 17°. I removed a 4mm spacer, the bar is slightly higher. Overall I saved more than 550g with this new build.
The first few moves in the garage shown me that the stem change goes in the right direction. The bike is easier on the front and there is more room for the body. I felt I had a more central position on the bike.
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I have the impression these components are not really develop with crashing people in mind.
The shifters are quite exposed, the cranks as Jamesb noticed seem to be quite harsh for the ankles, the derailleur looks like it want to snap the frame already...
But I never was a fan of SRAM components.
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The Jitsie is a strange piece of bike. It is like a comp bike bike with 24" wheels and a seat. Not sure this is what you are looking for.
You can look for something like a giant team trial (version 3, which is more modern), or a Planet X, Koxx Code, or a 26" alloy street/trial: Inspired Hex, Element or Extension Drax if it fits your budget. Maybe a Monty 230 Urban fits too.
Have a look at Ali C's vlogs, he rode different kinds of bikes and you will see how he adapts his riding style.
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Hello and welcome (back),
Modern comp bikes (stocks and mods) are now so extreme, that no one wants to cruise with this kind of bikes. They are really loooong with the weight shifted forward.
I own one (a Crewkerz Cleep 2) and I really to "ride" with. But it is completely different type of "riding". It is better for natural, sidehops, front moves.
Street/trials bikes suit you better. They are short and their geometry is closer to the Orange Zero's one. I owned one and I love how short and maneuverable they are. It was a dream in manual.
The 24" bikes are easier to rotate and for riders who prefers BMX tricks.
26" street trials bikes (Inspired Hex, TMS Silex 26, Extension Drax) are slightly better for trial moves. They roll better on uneven surface and they are longer than the 24". They are quite difficult to find used and the market is so small, that there is sometime no dedicated parts. For example, there is no specific tubeless tires.
I built a 26" street trials based on an Octane One Spark frame. It is a street/park frame, but the geometry is close to an Inspired Hex. It is quite close to my old Orange Zero, but heavier. Aluminum frames are much lighter and more responsive.
Another possibility is to get a 10-15 years old comp bike. An Echo, Ozonys, Atomz, Koxx (XTP short?) for example. The bottom brackets were lower than now (+30/40mm instead of +65/80mm) and they were shorter. But maybe already too high and too long for your taste.
Your style and your budget are the keys. If you really want to ride a lot of natural, go for an old comp bike (or a modern one and try to adapt) if you think than +30mm will be OK.
Else try to get a 26" street/trials.
If you want to try BMX tricks, go for a 24", but it will be much more difficult on natural surface.
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I appreciate to see you ride a modern comp bike! But I appreciate even more, that you ride the same frame as I do!
The Cleep 2 has a recent geometry, but the frame is quite heavy compared to the Jealousy. Maybe 400g (0,88 pound) heavier.
Would like to see your reaction when you get back on your street/trial
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Hope the rider was not injured!
Looks really nasty.
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That is the way it should be to obtain the maximal leverage.
I never owned a Xtr lever, but I had LX (with a 3 positions servo wave) and Avid levers (with a similar system). I never had problems.
You will notice that the brake will feel more spongy this way, but this is to expect: applying more force leads to a higher deformation.
That is why we recommended a better cable or the use of a brake booster.
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Hello and welcome,
Nice to see another trial addicted guy!
Your setup is quite good:the lever is top and the brake arms good enough. You don't need to change something here.
On the xtr lever, you can adjust the pulling ratio. The part holding the cable shall be as close as possible from the pivot. You can adjust this with a screw if I recall correctly.
But consider changing the brakepads for trial specific pads.
The compound is much softer and give much more bite and hold.
It makes a huge difference! You won't have to grind the rim, as long as you ride only when it is dry. Grinding makes the brakes even more powerful, and it is the only way for rim brakes to perform in wet conditions.
Another upgrade can be linear cables/housing like the Odyssey slic cables. They improve the feeling of the brake, the lever feels less spongy. It make a big difference too.
A brake booster can also improve the feeling by increasing the stiffness of the couple frame/brakes. I don't know if this frame is stiff enough, it can be the case though. I prefer to have a slight spongy lever to prevent arm pump. But it is a personal preference maybe.
Another small improvement: shorten the distance where your brakes arm is attached to the cable so that the adjustment dial of the lever is closer to the lever (one or two rotations could be left)
Finally, you can buy better grips. Arm pump is amplified by shocks.
Consider dual density grips.
Edit: Ali C. already listed the most important changes
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Were because and neon two different companies at all?
Would be nice to know who was behind each brand...
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I created a thread to share my experience:
I used the version for tubes. Too sum up, I was quite happy with, but there was two major drawbacks:
1. I used a schwalbe tabletop to save some weights (to obtain with the insert a weight similar to the holy roller's one). Due to the stiffness of the insert, I had to reduce the pressure to get a good feeling. Else there was a dead feeling, the bike was like planted in the ground.
But the thin sidewalls did not like this and the tire did not last long.
The tire did also collapse during a manual in a turn, this was somehow difficult to control.
2. Due to the design and the low pressure, a lot of energy is wasted in the tire deformation. It is incredible how slower you get. I completely underestimated this. My bike used to roll as good as my comp bike with its new freewheel and the HS33 rubbing.
I would like a street/trial bike that rolls well, so that I can go on the pumptrack or just roll :-)
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Hello,
After experimenting with the Taunus Armor insert, I would like to try a tubeless setup for my rear wheel of my street/trial bike.
What tire do you recommend?
Is an insert required?
My rim is a DT FR 560.
I was considering a Maxxis Ikon or Crossmark II.
With my previous tires. (Tabletop + insert, holy roller), I often had problem with sidewalls getting open, cause I rode with low pressure and regularly on stones.
On my comp bike, I have an old Maxxis DHR tubeless and the sidewalls are much sturdier (two ply). I don't get pinch flat either.
Any recommendations?
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Amazing video as always! Such a different way to ride, a great source of motivation!
I really appreciate the precision moves (the side to side wheel displacement,the 180s), removing correction hops and being so well balanced on the bike give such a nice flow! It looks so easy to accomplish, but every experienced riders knows how many tries are required...
That is why I like your edits. It is not everything about balls like some Austrian blond rider.
It is more about creating flow using precision, on creative lines full of difficult and tricky moves.
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New Hope Pro 5
in News
Posted
I think you are right Mark, to me the interest for I9 seems to be a combination of a hype and a good product.
But it is also a niche product, and according to my experience a lot of user of niche, expensive products are biased by the price they paid the product. At least the few first months or years. I recall how the Reverb seat post was first hyped and then became a trash product when it became more affordable.
In addition, there are so many different parameters (weight of the rider, level, riding style, frame stiffness, frame alignment, clamping force of the axle, wheel stiffness and deformation of the hub body...), it is hard to isolate where the issue comes from (user error, frame problem?)
And as you many times said on this forum, the more a part is sold, the more defects (absolute scale) are expected.
But I heard many times that hope does not communicate a lot about the defects and often refuse warranty. This does not match with my own experience I made years ago. The support was amazing.
I am and was always satisfied with Hope products.
That is sad if Hope had a faulty batch and did not communicate further about it. I think at the end it brings more discredit on the brand than it helps.
It is quite difficult to know whether a product is reliable or not a few months after it was released.
But later when the second hand market is full of a product or a product is quite difficult to find used, I think it is a good hint about the quality (in case the production numbers are comparable).
And it seems difficult to find an used hope hub...
I guess the goal of the fifth version is to address the few downsides of the current hub (drag, better standards support) and improves even further the reliability.