La Bourde
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Posts posted by La Bourde
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I found this map, with most German trials associations (push bike and motorbike).
Again, get in touch with the associations.
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You can be proud, nice video with a banger at the end.
The level of some riders of this contest is amazing
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The flow is more an entry level bike too and has quite long chainstays. The high end 24" models (Skye, Arcade) have a wheelbase smaller or equal to 1000mm.
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These are the SqLab components built on the Canyon "Stitched CFR Trials".
You know, the bike with the spurious components: floating rotors (I am not sure they are still sold with them), DT swiss hub and plastic headset spacers.
The SQlab saddles are really appreciated by most women and I guess they have other good components.
Maybe they first planed a carbon bar and this was the according specs for the clamping area, but they eventually went for aluminum.
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True. I try to push to carry speed and it feels weird! My street trial is also so short, I have to be careful on the first manuals ...
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Hi,
thx Canardweb for the notification.
Difficult for me to answer cause I know only some spots in the south of Germany.
What are you looking for? Comp trials spots?
There is for example the JoFr academy, which is I guess one of the best here around: https://jofr.academy/
But I am not sure everyone can ride there, so get in touch with the owner.
There are also some parks that are own by some association. Nothing big unfortunately.
For example Sulz-am-Neckar, Tübingen, Schatthausen (where the German nationals took place this year).
This is not a park, but a really nice place to ride naturals: https://www.lautertal.de/das-felsenmeer.html
I will ask some friends, hope they have a list.
In Stuttgart, there is Birkenkopf aka Monte Scherbelino.
More streety we have the University Vaihingen and the Unipark in town.
And a fresh new spot at Marienplatz
If you want to ride around Stuttgart, do not hesitate to get in touch with me!
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@Canardweb: you are first!
Seen in the comment of this video:
(The hack on the Jistsie is also quite nice, but I still prefer to avoid the problem - see Crewkerz 😂)
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Agree, but compared to the 1200 mm of modern enduro bikes, it will still feel crazy short.
Buying a 1100 WB comp bike won't be a solution neither...
Street/trials bike feel really awkward for a MTBer, even a 26". The head angle, the bar height, the short chainstays...
I think a 26" street/trials makes more sense for someone who already owns a dirt jump bike.
For someone who only owns an enduro bike, I guess it is much a matter of what kind of riding one wants to do: more spinny things, more BMX oriented or more natural trials things.
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Nice work Ali and Euan!
I face also the same problem, I cannot find any adapter and that is why I continue to ride with a cracked one.
I think the tangential force that the wheel applies was quite underestimated.
One thing I am not sure about is whether the distance between the screw holes of the Magura mount of the same seatstay (this word does not make sens on a comp bike 😂) is the same across different frame/brand.
I guess it should be, but the tolerance in MTB/trials are often quite bad. I never checked on my different bikes.
The adapters I have are compatible with different lengths between the screw holes. And it is also possible to adjust angle that the adapter does with the seatstay.
@Ali C a Levelboss and another Koxx frame (the streety one, right ?). Hope to see them soon in a vlog.
Do you think it it possible to get some adapters from Euan?
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Hi,
this forum is about push bikes, not motor bikes.
Not sure some can help you here.
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You are welcome!
It is a really cool bike, I like it a lot. I want to create a post on this forum, but I am too busy currently.
I am experimenting different v-brake setups, I think it makes sense to share my experience in this regard at a point.
The Freed is shorter than my large Cleep2, so easier to move around and more fun. At its original price, the bike was a good deal.
It is quite heavy though.
I rode with my cleep the last few days and I had the impression, I did some progress. 👍
I unfortunately already had some issues with the Freed: there is now a crack in the v-brake adapter, the rim tape managed to cut the tube (never had that before !) and I bent the front rim quite a lot, I had to remove the whole tension of some spokes so that the wheel spins... Need a new rim. Crewkerz had to save some money to maintain a low price, I guess the rims are not so good.
PS: I guess the real legends are Jebegood, AdamR28, Julien H. and other😉
Putting my name close to theirs is already an offend. 😁
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I bought a specific Hope rotor in 190mm, that was almost twice expensive as the normal one! Though I am not Scottish, can't forget that!🤣
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If you have a clearance issue, this is because you use a wrong rotor/adapter combination. (Or your frame mount is off)
Unfortunately, there are "metric" and "imperial" based dimensions (?) for rotor and adapter, with the exception of 160mm.
So there are 180 and 185mm rotors, 200 and 203 (8").
Shimano uses metric dimensions, Avid not. Hope makes both.
(Koxx had also a 190mm disc and matching fork...)
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It shall work but the Shimano oil is much thicker than the trialtech specific fluid. So I do not recommend it. I tried and it was OK, better than the original oil (I mean the Magura blood)
I tried with thiner mineral oils, like suspension fork oil from Putoline (the HPX 2.5). The result is OK, but the trialtech fluid is still better.
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😃for sure I am ham-fisted, but not enough to have problem with other brands.
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Is there any part designed to be removed on a Magura brake?
I thought they are just meant to fail when you service the brake 😁
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On 6/10/2023 at 12:29 PM, THIS_IS_DBO said:
Thanks for the tips Brettoll, i'm based in leamington spa, I'm on the hunt for local riders!
I had considered trying to find a zero to build up, but I'm partly excited to see how the tech has progressed.
I think I might have the same struggle with 24", completely different body shape etc, but hard to say without trying, switching between my stumpy and my old 26" already feels like riding a BMX, I'm not sure how well I would cope with switching between wheel sizes all the time.
Is the Alias 24"? do you know if the hex comes as a frameset or full bike only, i've not seen the frame only online?Thanks for the comments, like you say I need to try them out and see how I get on.
Have you ridden a hex?
Yes, I had the opportunity to ride a Hex, but I never owned one.
I own an alloy Merida 26" street trial prototype, which geometry is closed to the Hex.
Both bikes are much easier on the rear wheel than the Zero. The longer front end make them better for transfer or gap. The Zero has a similar wheelbase, but the chainstays are longer (20mm), the head angle is slacker so overall its reach is much shorter.
The zero was amazing in manual. Maybe cause the bottom bracket is so low and the chainstays not too short.
The zero is harder to spin.
My NS majesty Park felt closer to the Zero due to the short reach. But it spins much better, it is quite unstable compared to the Zero.
It makes it sometimes harder in manual, but it is so playful, like a BMX... I like it.
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I have a MTB background too and honestly, I never felt good on a 24".
I never own one for a long time, but I had the opportunity to test some of them (four play and Crewkerz guilty, element)
I felt quite good on the guilty.
But still it felt like a shorter bike, too close to a 26".
I tried 20" comp bikes and I felt almost better on them, cause it is completely different to ride (but not the solution in your case, you want to ride the bike on obstacles I guess and not pedal up everything)
As Brettol said, try both if possible.
I guess 26" will fit you better though.
I had an Orange Zero too (really loved it) and the Hex or the other 26" street trials are a further refinement of it.
I have a NS Majesty Park built as a 26" street trials and it feels similar to the zero:
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Nice!
As far as I know the cleep 1 (gray) had +60mm cause they used a different fork.
With its straight fork, the cleep 2 was sold as +65mm.
These are no decals but some kind of anodizing.
What do you use to remove the anodizing?
Which size is the frame? Looks like a medium to me.
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I am almost offended to read that I ride an old school bike! 😂
Was also expecting a +30mm bottom bracket, not +65mm!
The geometry of the Cleep2 (and Cleep) is still on point to me.
What part do you plan to swap?
I noticed a front disc setup and an original Magura HS33 lever...
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Never used them nor saw them live.
But these pedals were released some years ago and are still available on the market.
So I think there is a satisfied customer base.
Maybe it is not for everyone.
I hope it will help you to ride more.
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Heard from a pro rider that they are worth the weight even for his weight-weenies soft spots!
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Damn good edit again! Reminds me the old school edits ... I really like that. Your style is coming back on this kind of bikes, it looks huge and smooth at the same time. 😍
Hope you are well again. Concussions are really no fun at all.
PS: I never heard of this band, but it makes directly to my playing list.
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9 hours ago, Ónodi István said:
Hey guys!
I tried looking up carbon repair topic, but couldn't find any.
I recently bought a clean combo but it doesn't look too promising😬
The cracks are getting bigger and scarier.
Have you guys ever repaired one with similar issue or know anyone who repaired one?
To me it looks like they are some aluminum thread inserts, where the delamination started.
If cracks are apparent, then the delamination is quite far. I think the structure is too altered to attempt to repair it!
In addition it seems to me that it is quite difficult to compress the fiber correctly at this section of the stem. But I am not a carbon specialist.
The whole design is quite ambitious. If the fork steerer, the aluminum insert or the stem tolerances are slightly off (I won't be surprise at all if it is the case on many trials fork and stem), the stress increases at the clamping part.
They are some clamping marks on the inside of the stem clamp. It looks like the aluminum insert caused them. I assume the clamping force was quite high.
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Green t rider asks: What would be the standard grip width to not kill forearms?
in Trials Chat
Posted
Hi!
As you wrote, grips are something quite personal.
I cannot ride with grip too thin. 32mm suits me well. I tried 30mm may times but I got sore hands every time.
I think if you are not confident in your setup, you will get troubles with forearms (grips, gloves, brakes, etc.). Confidence might be even more important that the grips themselves.
One thing I notice too was, that the same grips but with lockon can be harsher, cause the compound is thinner. I went back from lockon and ride push-on grips hold by some wires (like in mx).
Do you feel well with the gloves?