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Ben Davies

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Posts posted by Ben Davies

  1. Apologies if this has already been covered...

    I'm running an Alex DX32 rear and a Mavic EX721 front on my Hex and I run my tyres around 40-50 psi, I've been riding on and off since the late 90s but I haven't ridden properly for ages - maybe 5-6 years so I'm 'learning' some of the stuff I used to be able to do again/building up my confidence etc and was wondering... would tubeless be a good idea? No pinch flats, no annoying punctures... or would the sheer leaping around on a bike and having the odd dodgy landing cause the tyre to 'burp' and spill the sealant all over the place?

    Obviously my rims don't have massive weight saving holes all the way round ;)  as for tyre choice, at the mo I'm running Larsens, 2.35 DP rear and 2.0 SP front

    thoughts/opinions/experiences?

    Ta

    From an old skool 'novice' 

  2. Thanks for the input guys, I think I'll give the hope a miss then and get something along the 90/30 - 35 size

    John, your bike is something else!!! that has to be the nicest thing I've ever seen!

    Actually, it was your green hex what came up in a google search which made me want one! :wub: nice build!

    Cheers

    Ben

  3. I have a hex on the way in a few weeks and also have a Hope stem in the parts box which is 90x10

    would it work with a few spacers underneath (I have a whole set of hope ones but that might look a bit silly)

    ...and some high risers, TT high rise for example... yay or nay?

    Most other hex's all the cool kids ride have higher stems, would a 90x10 make the handling crap? :S

  4. On 21 December 2015 at 7:04 PM, CC12345678910 said:

    What's the reason for not setting up EVO/Evo2 without the magura booster and using a 2bolt with loads of adjustment like a trialtech or tensile? Or drill/file out the bottom holes on a 4 bolt version so that it accepts a longer m6 bolt for the Vbrake bolt?

    Or failing that, why not make a booster from scratch out of some 1mm or 2mm plate mild steel? I did this for my Zoot - just by winging it, but you could easily copy an existing item and adjusting the dimensions to what is needed.

    For the current mod I made a 2 bolt (without booster spacers) by hacking the bridge/brace off a pair of tesco bike forks with a grinder, measured the bolt centers, worked out my tyre clearances, marked it out with a sharpie and set at it. Then finished off with a couple of coats of poundshop black spray paint. It works just as well as the T/tech 2bolt on the fourplay, weighs nigh on the same, and was essentially free cos I weighed in the donor bike with some other scrap and got my money back :D

    EDIT: Telling slight lies... Because I use standard Magura clamps without flat tops, there are a couple of KMC Z510 rollers in there as bolt spacers so the booster doesn't foul the clamps - I actually had to add more than I needed because the booster was sooo stiff.

    Thanks for the idea... I might just consider that! 

  5. Ladies, Gents,

    I've been riding trials on and off for the past 17 years, a few years breaks here and there/part time love etc etc.... my first proper trials bike was a Pashley in 1999 after several small XC frames which I snapped or wrecked in one way or another! 

    When I first ever got pashley no.1 home I found setting up magura hs33 a bit of a pain with a mavic d521, the brake was always spongey, squealed like a pig and was just generally really annoying - however, I was in love with the pashley and it looked so much better than the previous bikes I'd had so soldiered on with it...I changed the rim to an X-Lite Phatso after about a year and that made them a bit less annoying to set up but was still never perfect, sadly that bike was sold in 2001 and I regret it to this day but hey ho, these things happen.

    Over the years I've have several different trials frames, long/short/no seat etc/20/24/26 inch wheels and something always drags me back to a Pashley - I've had 6 in total over time! every time I've had magura brakes and it has always been a pain in the ass setting them up. 

    Has anyone else had this problem with this frame/brake set up? the annoying thing is that the magura evo mounts (which are easier to set up) don't fit the Pashley frame as the brake lugs are to far apart, is there any secret in setting them up on this frame or am I destined for a crap rear brake forever? ....or just sack off the maggie and get a decent V brake?

    Advice would be much appreciated as I am currently building one at the moment - a very nice one at that with lots of money thrown at it!!

     

    Ben

     

  6. Yeah, it bolts onto standard IS mounts through those holes that are empty in the image. Like so.....

    avid-juicy-carbon-disc-brake-33753.jpg

    The avids (and any other disc using that design) are basically just the caliper with an adapter to fit your forks, there's an adapter for any fork mount for that brake so it will fit no matter what you've got so long as you have the right adapter mount. You don't need the washers like other brakes because you loosen the two bolts that clamp the calliper to the adapter and then pull the brake. This centralises the calliper to your rotor and then you just tighten it up and release the lever, negating the need for washers. Simples!

    The performance from that particular brake on the other hand.... :ermm:

    thanks thanks thanks :) its on my xc/commuter bike so it doesnt have to be reeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaly good ;)

  7. hi guys, been away for a few years now but started riding again..

    basicly i have an avid juicy 3 front disc with a caliper that bolts on directly to the back of my forks (im running suspension) (it screws directly into the back of the leg rather than your standard mounts where you use washers etc on the side) ...please see link

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=22185

    call me a dummy but is this easy to get the caliper onto standard mouted forks like echo/zoo/fattys etc???

    i have been out the scene for a while so really confused!

    ...just had another look at the picture and those 2 holes at the bottom of the caliper -do they fit onto standard mounts????

    any help is much appreciated!

  8. I'm stuck now. Thinking about getting a bike with a 1065 wheelbase. Just went out and measured my Saracen flea's wheelbase and it's 1010. Isn't that really short. Wheelbase is from measured from hub to hub isn't it? Would 1065 be a short wheelbase or is is sort of middleish?

    Thanks

    all depends on what sort of riding you want to do, if you want a streety feel bike for big bunny hops, manual type moves then dont get anything longer than around 1060, if you do more trialsy moves that involve pedaling to get up stuff then a longer one is probably better, i had this problem last year, i bought an echo pure long which is something like 1085 (i think) and i did more streety stuff, could i get the front end up to manual, could i heck!! i couldnt even bunny hop 6 inches it was that bad so i had to get rid, i moved onto an inspired fourplay which was superb for my style of riding and i think thats 1040, if your used to the saracen and you like the way it rides i'd stick to smaller wheelbase 1010 is really short but if you like it then thats up to you.....and when you measure the wheelbase its from the centre to centre of the hubs, hope this helps (Y)

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