ben_travis
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Posts posted by ben_travis
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All three of the below are complete cliche, but in my mind all three videos are pretty iconic for their 'genres' of trials. When I hear any of the songs i immediately think of the video regardless of where I am. If i had to choose one then Toxicity...such a good video / song choice.
Old school: Toxicity by System of a down from "Toxicity - Trials kings" - https://youtu.be/42Pvyrcdp8s
TGS street: Lying from You by Linkin Park from 'Gilles & Giacomo coustellier in nottingham" - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0EV2FZPugc
Street trials: The funeral by Band of horses from 'Inspired Bicycles - Danny MacAskill April 2009' - https://youtu.be/Z19zFlPah-o
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Hey dude,
I’ve had zero problems with mine so far. It’s been solid with no skips or slips. I’ve tried to put mine through it’s paces with decent sized gaps and TGS stuff as well as the streety stuff and it’s been really reliable.
Can’t help on where you’ll source one from though I’m afraid.-
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Don’t worry about the glue, just tape back over it. After a recent hub swap I’ve re-taped mine with glue under with no issues
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From the picture below, it appears your tape is only across the middle of the rim and not across where the tyre sits. It needs to be the FULL width of the rim including on the flat section where the tyre sits. From experience this pushes the tyre bead up into the catch on the rim.
5 hours ago, Rip said:
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Big vote for hope adapters here. I’ve had the same two on front and rear for a couple of years with zero issues.
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I managed to get the pump below on a deal but heard decent things about the Topeak and leyzene pump too
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/lifeline-airblast-tubeless-tyre-track-pump/rp-prod155451
EDIT: Should add that it’s managed to get nearly every tyre bar one airking seated. That includes all sorts of mtb tyres. After the one that didn’t seat was when I started lubricating the bead and rim and it’s been near faultless since.
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It sounds to me that you need to get yourself to a bike shop to get an air compressor on it. Or buy yourself a tubeless tyre track pump.
To me, there is no point trying to get the tyre to seat before you've got the insert in. They are tight but they definitely go on so you've just got to get that bit sorted. From the picture you put up with the zipties on, it looks as if you've not pushed your bead in under the insert on the bit of tyre that you do have on the rim already, which definitely needs to happen to get the insert in.
When you're trying to seat the tyres are you lubricating the beads with some soapy water? If not, then definitely recommend this. It just helps the bead move across the tape better from experience.
Typically i follow this routine:
- One side of tyre fully on (doesn't need to be seated)
- Tubeless valve in (with core still in place)
- insert fitted over rim
- start fitting other side of the tyre starting at the valve and moving both ways so that the last bit of tyre to be fitted is opposite the valve core
- Make sure as you go round that you push this side of the tyre into the middle of the rim underneath the insert (typically i used a tyre lever for this)
- When you get to the last bit of tyre you can pour sealant in the side of the tyre at this point (or wait till step 9 if you want less mess)
- Rotate the wheel so the the sealant goes to where the valve is
- Use tyre levers to fit the last bit of bead as this will typically be tight regardless
- take valve core out (and you can put in sealant at this point if you didn't at step 6)
- Spin the wheel to get the sealant all around the inside of the wheel
- Apply soapy water on both beads and the inside of the rim wall (i'd get a brush to apply at this point to get right in there)
- Pump (i've got a tubeless tyre track pump) or compressor on with the valve core at the top of the wheel
- Get pumping then squirm and squeal when the tyre pops (every time).
- take pump off and then put valve core back in (i don't let tyre right down, i get my finger over the open core and then put the valve core in before tyre fully deflates)
- pump tyre back up to about 45 psi and give it some good ol' spins to get that sealant into all the pores then leave over night
If you've tried all of that and are still struggling, then recommend you taking it to your local bike shop for them to do it. They'll have it done in no-time.
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I’ve tried a few different mtb brand rim tapes but always end up back on gorilla tape.
Ideally you want a tape that is as wide as your rim in a single size
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5 hours ago, Ali C said:
to throw a spanner in the works I don't agree with the Mod as a first bike route UNLESS you're young or used to smaller bikes (BMX etc).
If you've come from MTB or Moto then a 20" bike will feel straaaaaange!
I think a small 26" hardtail or a street trials bike (24 or 26 inch) will be easier to get used to and swap between. The 20" mod might be a little easier on the rear wheel but at the sacrifice of familiarity...so you'll be able to back hop it easier but anything else might just feel too strange and despite a bigger bike being slighty more work, the fact it's closer to what you're used to means it might be easier to pick it up and get riding without needing to get used to a completely different feeling.
I started on an 18" XC bike when I was 13 and I really believe having a bike that was a bit more work to ride taught me a LOT on body positioning and techniques.This.
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On 19/10/2020 at 8:56 PM, monkeyseemonkeydo said:
Someone on PB was saying it might be a different wheel just with a 'dead gear' as he changes wheels for that one shot then switches back to the i9 for the next shot.
i9 do have a free coaster in the works I believe. Christian Rigal filmed a video for i9 and has many coaster clips in it too.
Also...this...
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2 hours ago, Brian Bleech said:
Turned 40 at the start of the month, got a couple of rides in last week and got a few clips.
Well, shit. Guess there isn't any reason for me to be slowing down if you're still plucking away at 40 dude. Nice Mike!
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This'll be my last reply, but i really think you're clutching at straws dude. Did you get a bit annoyed by the fact that you didn't win any magura brakes, hence your frustration?
Specifically on that video, anyone can watch that section and see that Hans specifically points out that beginners hop backwards because of poor C.O.G, but the 'advanced' technique is to hop forwards, "maybe over a gap or something" to quote him.
I've never met anyone in 20+ years of riding trials who has made the back-hop distinction as specifically hopping backwards (other than that trashzen link - which i 100% don't agree with). I'm pretty certain that the universal description is that a back hop is hopping on the back wheel, same as a front hop is hopping on the front wheel regardless of direction. Alternatively, gapping and landing on your back wheel his a gap to back, or a gap to front is landing on your front wheel.
You're free to be as pedantic as you'd like with your descriptions, but probably not worth asking someone else to be that pedantic when it doesn't appear to be the consensus.
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Will just leave this here, you can skip to 55:30 yourself to see what these guys (you may have heard of them) called “the back wheel hop“. You may also note that this was filmed in the pre-2000’s IIRC so it’s been around a while. A little longer than trashzen as well (sorry julien (I think), no criticism of your site intended)
I’d imagine 99% riders shortening it to back hop isn’t really that bad. Same way hopping on the front wheel in any direction would be a front hop.
But I guess I’m just lazy...
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17 hours ago, Swoofty said:
https://trashzen.com/back-hop.php
copyright circa 1998 for the trashzen tutorial
Rear wheel hop - bouncing up and down on the rear wheel
Back hop - hopping in the backwards direction from one or both wheels
See also back off and back off 180
Mustn't confuse the new kids.
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8 hours ago, Swoofty said:
Whatever you do, please don't call rear wheel hops "back hops". They are different moves and some very respectable people seem to not know the difference.
Can you explain the difference on here so that those respectable people can learn from you and the OP can ensure his website is correct.
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I'd recommend the 9.p pads to help reduce pad rock.
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26 minutes ago, Ali C said:
UPDATE:
Channel is recovered! I still have all my videos and surprisingly most of my subscribers too!
I'm just waiting for Google/YouTube to finish their checks and then I can make all my videos public again and continue as normal...I'm hoping it will be ready for today's upload but it's out of my hands for now.I imagine that youtube password of yours is going to be infinitely longer and more complex, and your cynicism of help offerings heightened.
Glad you got the channel back dude.
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5 minutes ago, Rip said:
Do they bite well?
From my experience, yes.
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Hey bud,
If you're after a slightly stronger rotor, then fully recommend these - https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/disc_brake_rotors/magura_mdrc/c76p13782.html
I've landed on / hit my rear one a few times and had no issues at all.
Cheers
Ben
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On 13/02/2019 at 9:48 PM, ben_travis said:
As i assume we're all looking at this from a trials perspective, obviously it's not aimed at what we do and the pressures we put through hubs compared to say, going up hill with a 32th front cog and a 46 tooth rear cog. lets assume its been well tested for use on the mtbs....but in terms of your question archie, i wouldn't wanna risk riding trials on this with 1 pawl engaging at a time. Even with flex.
what a difference a year and (almost a half makes)...
I’ve been running the i9 hydra hubs for a couple of months now and can say that they work just fine for trials stuff of all kinds. if you can afford them they are definitely worth it.
The noise is ridiculous, and I’d had no skips or skips as yet. And once you ride a pro 4 again afterwards you realise just how awesome the amount of engagement points are.
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First off, how tall are you? Honestly looks like you are on a 24" bike...
I'd definitely recommend an Inspired Arcade handlebar though. The husselfelts that come on the fuse are a good compromise for the bikes budget, but they do look far too low for you.
And if that still feels too low, then you should try the 110mm x 35deg stem as well.
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Public version of the map i created for London spots for my 3DIL video.
Not all of the spots have been verified as rideable / still there, this took a lot of hunting on google maps / street view to find what is shown. It is the fairly central spots as I travelled down from Aberdeen so didn't have the time to head out your way. I've been a bit selfish and taken off some of the spots I still have unfinished business with, but otherwise, enjoy.
I should add that my version was created as a copy from a link @Mark W provided me years ago, but i cannot find that link anymore.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1gEwFzcEBLQwChY6bVV7cADlrwgNDGYfa&usp=sharing
EDIT: I found the original map.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1995yj7zZl0staKZ4h3dFMwTWwic&hl
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The hook on the pole jam was so dialled, James!
Creative riding as always!!
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Some ace clips in there flipp. Enjoyed that.
Favourites:
- Something about the line at c. 2:43 really made me smile.
- The simo barraco double wall slap up the stairs
- The tech lines in the dark spot, assuming a car park
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What would you propose?