tim r32

Yeah you can, just buy some longer bolts if you need to like I said earlier, something like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M4-x-45-STAINLESS-ALLEN-BOLT-CAP-SCREW-10-10-EX-FREE-/220597721389?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item335ca6192d These 45mm long M4 stainless steel bolts are only £2.25 each, so that's just £4.50 for two which is the sort of thing you need to replace the bolts in your tensioner. I don't know exactly what diameter and length you'll need but you can easily measure them. They certainly won't need to be longer than 45mm so for less than £5 you'll be sorted. Stainless steel won't rust quickly either so they'd be the ones to go for. If you need to buy some washers they won't be more than a few pence, but you've probably got something you can use lying about. That's what I'd do, it'll be much cheaper than having to buy a new chain or tensioner.

Before you put the handlebar into the stem, get a piece of fine sandpaper (wet and dry paper is best, something like 800 grit), and run it around the inside ends of the stem, where it would touch the handlebar surface. This will remove any burrs and sharp edges that could scratch the surface of the handlebar. A half-round file would also do fine. Other than that, doing what you have said and prising the stem clamp open a bit so it's not as tight a fit on the handlebar when assembling them is a good idea.

Have you tried spacing out the side plates by taking out the screws that go through the jockey wheels, putting some washers either side of the jockey wheels inside the side plates, and then re-assembling it all. This should move the side plates further apart, giving it enough width for the chain to pass through. If you need to space it out loads you may need longer bolts though, as the washers may not allow enough thread depth in the side plates and the threads may strip out.

Truing or dishing the wheel is pretty easy. First get yourself a spoke key ( http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?product_id=2010&category_id=31 ). Then spin the wheel slowly in the frame and note which part of the wheel you want to move across. If the whole wheel needs shifting left or right this is even easier, you'll be adjusting spokes all the way around. Next have a look at the spokes in the section you want to adjust - alternate spokes come from different sides of the hub. If you tighten alternate spokes (all coming from the same side of the hub) it'll pull the rim in that direction. To tighten a spoke, use the spoke key to rotate it anti-clockwise when viewed from the centre of the wheel. This pulls the spoke nipple up the spoke itself, pulling on the rim. Do an eigth to a quarter of a turn at a time, no more than that. To dish the whole rim, start at the valve, rotating alternate spokes a 1/4 turn until you get back to the valve again. If it needs more go round again, but don't be tempted to do more than 1/4 turn at at time. You can also loosen the spokes pulling the rim the wrong way by a 1/4 turn, but I don't normally find this necessary unless things are getting very tight.

If you're getting gloves to stop blisters etc, maybe consider switching to foam grips. I don't really like wearing gloves, but the rubber grips were tearing up my palms, so I changed to some of these: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?product_id=10443&category_id=132 which are loads more comfortable, meaning my hands don't get all blistered up.

If you're looking to ride a distance then I'd definitely get a bike with a saddle - I didn't and I find it really tiring to pedal it any distance, plus I have to fight my instinct to just sit down when coasting, (I've come close a few times!) What doesn't help is the fat rear tyre running at a low pressure. Perhaps if you take a small pump with you then you can pump it up to 30psi for travelling, let it down when you get there, and pump it up for the trip back. That should help it to roll better (plus if you get a pinch puncture you're sorted if you take some patches with you). One other thing that'd help is to avoid a fixed rear hub/crank freewheel and non-jockey wheeled tensioner. I didn't, and I can really feel the drag from the chain passing over the plastic block on my 74 Kingz tensioner when coasting. I'm tempted to replace it with a regular 'wheel' tensioner, but it's another £30 the missus won't let me spend. If it takes 30 mins on a regular bike then it'll be a fair old way on a trials bike, but if you've got no choice (i.e. don't drive and don't have mates with cars) then it is possible with some effort. Good luck with getting the bike.