ti-mig-guy

Looks like it is taking a lot of effort for him to hop, should be a little more relaxed. Remember the point is not to hop in place, but to position yourself for the next move. Most riders have a small stall right before any move, you should be steady before beginning the next move. So 5-6 hops may be all you need. Never have I seen a pro hop more then a few times to set up a move. Can you hop a few times and get set in a comfortable position, and stall for a moment? If so, time for the next skill in my opinion.

I have had that same issue(peddles ratcheting back) and this helped me. When on your back wheel try to stall for just a second, and release the brake and peddle forward ever-so slightly. This should return your peddles to there comfy position. This is more of a correction in the angle of the frame then a peddle kick. Drop the front a little, release brake and peddle the front back up. Also lacing small peddle kicks together on grass has helped me quite a bit. From trackstand peddle a sharp short stroke, and hop forward at the same time, but after the front end rises up. I try to get to a rear wheel stall, not bounce but to each there own. Either way you can practice timing your braking. I found it built confidence in my brakes and ability to use them. That seems to be the trick-confidence in braking timing. Good luck, hope this helps

curious, whats a "Henry" cost in the UK? If you don't get it, then you won't be able to answer...

Unless it's steel you will want to use an acid etching primer. And a respirator, that stuff is very toxic. If it's aluminum then it is a must, the paint may blow off while riding, if not etched.

That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard of. Where did you come to that conclusion? I have known many people to smoke for decades. and have no psychosis. A little off subject, but whats the punishment for "doing" weed in the UK?

If it is not joint pain, and it doesn't sound like it is, then.. If you have a chance, try to ride a bike with a different stem and bar option, a little rise or lower may do the trick. You could move some weight off of the bars, and your hands, by leaning back a little when not needing to transfer your weight for a move. Don't hold your brake levers down when not needed, but that usually leads to sore fingers. If the skin is getting blistered in your palm (not fingers), you need different grips or gloves. Pain is part of the game...but shouldn't distract.

No pics today, camera is dead. Will do it on Monday. I like the spin on not having a seat meaning the bike is worthless, will definitely use that. Not from Russia or anywhere close, but it was a good guess. I am from a medium size town, Spokane, in Washington State, (not D.C.). I am 29, and have a nice life. I am a self described tree-huger, father, and Buddhist. Didn't mean to come off like I only wanted to say hi to Mig owners, if it seemed that way to you. Hello everyone

Is that red thing a seat, or a mud flap? Great deal nonetheless. I would burn that red plastic thing asap.

Looks just like my Kozza, same tubes, and stays, and weird seat-post hole. How long has that been your bike? Do you find that that seat is completely useless? My heal hits my ass if I try to peddle while sitting, so I took it off. I sit on the tire when resting, it's softer then plastic.

I am a little embarrassed to say...My language sounds kinda like yours but we say words like-douche bag and pimp, and never say things like wanker or mate. Would you like to guess? The forum I was using until today was full of totally useless, mean, disrespectfully little "botches" so I am glad to be here.

Nice to meet you. Sounds like you have more experience then me, and you are half my age. I wish I would have started younger.

No camera of my own, but I will bring it to work tomarow and take a few pics.

The chain stays are very wide, and I am unsure if the BMX rear hub I am running is the correct size. The frame is Titanium and the C.S. are very flexible, so the frame will be stiff when pinched in (I guess). The issue is that my rear cog-fixed- is to close the center of the hub (hope that that makes sense), causing the chain to skip and jump. My front free-wheel is as far into the BB as possible. I can run the chain extra loose and it does not skip. Seems to me that a wider hub may be necessary. Any suggestions?

Looks like front fork, neck and bars, with a piece of PVC taking the place of the head tube. Nice choice on frame. What kind of BMX riding did you do; dirt jumps, freestyle, flat land?

Hello all. I am new to this forum, thought I would say hello. I am a mod rider, Koza Ti Mig, running Maggie's, nothing too specials. I have had my Mig for 4 months now, and am still trying to dial it in, and build confidence. I am looking to make contact with other Ti Mig owners, to ask a few specific questions about there drive train. So please say hello if you have one, or have a mate with one. Also want to say I am glad to see that there is a forum where flaming and being an as**le will get you banned. ...I wish I lived somewhere else, maybe where people will stop asking why my bike has no seat...