gage-mann
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Posts posted by gage-mann
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Maybe dishing the rim slightly to the left and then letting one click off the non drive side snail cam would help.
Is it a kmc 610 chain? If you can dish the wheel slightly and put a 510 chain on it looks like you'll probably get away with that
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Go fast stop faster
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Just put hope v4 brakes with ice tech rotors on the bike this last weekend with smaller rear sprocket and tyres
Nearly ready for a Hex frame kit
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Heard it was Ben slinger but don't know who else ?
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Fat food stealing bint, just spray fart gas in her room when she's asleep then slam the friggin door
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Try find the member mixmaker
i remember him posting a few videos of him up, might find the name on his content
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Pink rims?
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Carrera Vulcan
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I've had mg-1s for 7-8 years, have I been living in a Stone Age all this time?
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That's pretty swanky! Only thing that I can criticise is the look of them crank end protecters.
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If it's of certain age it could be the inner body becoming deformed but that's the worst case and would mean replacing it before it try's locking up every now and again which you don't want!
Give it a open up and make sure springs and pawls are all fine and make sure the bearings haven't been split into pieces. If that's all good it's most likely the inner deformed from all the abuse it's took.
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Slaves usually go a while at least without problems. I'd say they'll be alright providing the age of them isn't more than 5 years, prongs tend to snap I think before seal problems
master pistons are are the ball ache, best with a racing line piston.
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0B_ESuKhLDE
here's a older video of myself I made before the next one
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tC5V4sTPjkg
Thank you
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Thats not that bad? More kick and preload takes time. Strength and flexible joints doesn't mean perfect technique, and mind set of how high you want to hop up untill you feel uncomfortable. It seems your getting there though just give it a few months
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Any body remember the dmr bottom bracket converter cups? That's screwed together in a bmx bb and you could thread a normal mtb bb in? Just need something like that to sit inside a 68mm frame but obviously allowing for spacing for a bearing either side?
Maybe threaded shims (like bb cups already) that seat bearings either side perfectly? The cups would have to have a tool to screw them in though. Plus getting the sizing right for it all could be a major hassle.
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On a trials bike I wouldnt worry about messing up the area where the bearing seats when removing and reinstalling because one, trials frames usually break (crack) before the bbs big bearings break or axle break. Two it's called pressfit because it's presses in basically even when you tighten the crabks on so I don't see how you could mess it up and three all you need to take the bb out it a large hammer.
I don't see the problem if replacements are the same price as other bb options. People still mess up threaded bbs by cross threading them and ruining the alloy cups with the bb tool (these people are the ones that would manage to mess up installing a pressfit though)
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Ohh that's really over tightening them then aha brute
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File the bent top clamps till the anodizing is all filed and silver.
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was my opinion on learning the rear wheel kinda pop technique but oh well 'in the words of the Virgin mary, come again?"
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Try softening the tyre so it feels out of control (obviously not so its flat nearly) take a pallet off what you do in the video so it looks easy enough for you.
might help the rear wheel pop up even though it'll feel alien because of you not being used to the tyre pressure but once you can kind of control it and pop the rear end up then keep putting 1 or 2 psi in until you get the balance right?
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The new racing line pistons have a dust/wiper ring on them, much better design. As long as you keep the piston lubed with decent quality silicone grease they'll be faultless and won't leak/need regular bleeding
I thought that when I saw them but then realised the oring is above each push seal so anything that'll grip between the oring may still scratch the inside of the lever body? And the fact there's two push seals is a bit silly. Although it could be to help guide the piston because of the shorter design than be actual push seals as they look a bit smaller than the orings.
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Slaves made for splitters, one hose fitting and the bleed bolts on the side like them prototype brakes that were posted a while ago?(hashtag or try all)
I have tensile tocco levers, leaked from the off ran them for a few weeks till they needed bleeding. Consulted Tartybikes and was recommended new o-rings which solved that problem, the next was the pivot bolt snapped but this may of been from over tightening but had to modify them as you can't buy replacements. The pivot bolts like tensile, racing line and hope are a need over the old magura style single bolt.
I've found the Pistons in the tensiles need less maintenance than the racing line ones because they have push/dust seals at the top of them like magura Pistons so it keeps crap at bay from the silicon grease you always have to use with aluminium Pistons.
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Echo control 09 might of been minging because of the 73headangle?
Post a pic of your non trials bike
in Bike Chat
Posted
My single speed bike is now slow.....