scotty007
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Posts posted by scotty007
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Hey
I ve been trying to find a Lub suitable to use on the steerer and the BB, Basically general lub!
But theres soo many chooses and I just want a good cheap Lub for my bike
Heres the link to CRC lubs here
Can some one tell me which one to get that is good and cheap
Thanks
In my opinion id go for this : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5959 Any thing lithium based is good for all bearings
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I'd put money on you not trying hard enough to turn the wheel to loosen the cog. You should give it a sharp quick twist first to try and loosen it rather than just constant pressure. But anyway, that's done now.
The spacer must be rubbing on the bearing in the wrong place I'd imagine. You just need a washer between the bearing and the spacer to push it out a little and stop it pressing on the bearing in the wrong place. Is it a new hub?
No it not a new hub i got the wheel off the FS section. The wheel itself is in ok condition as is the hub its not out of shape or bent . Just wont turn while the axle bolts are done up tight . So your theroy might be correct about the washer pushing on the incorrect part of the bearing .
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I wrap the cog in a chain but miss out one tooth so the chain sticks out in a triangle shape. pop in a vice and turn...the triangle bit of chain will wedge itself in the vice thus allowing the cog to unscrew...never failed so far.
Ok lads nothing i tryed worked so out came the angle grinder and all i can say is +1 for the mighty angle grinder. But i now have another issue which your skills might come in handy for : The axle spacer or the bit circuled in this pic pushes up to the bearing when the wheel sits in the frame with the axle bolts done up nice and tight the wheel refuses to move any ideas on where im going wrong or any sugestions on how to stop this part of the hub from sqaushing the bearings and making it seize up .Its all good if the axle bolts are done up loseley but this aint gonna work . Thanks from a very stressed and fed up member
Oh and does anybody know where i can get this part from please
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How about wrapping a chain round the sprocket twice, so that the teeth do not protrude above the chain. Then clamp it in a vice. Then using two hands turn the wheel anti clockwise (i think). You should have plenty of leveradge by using the wheel.
Whatever you do make sure its the chain your are applying the clamping force to and not the teeth!
Well ive just come i from the shed and tryed that method that you suggested and nothing the F****er wont budge at all. Im now thiking Haksaw maybe grinder but other sugestions would go a long please help!!!
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Hi just got a rear 26" wheel with a echo screw on sprocket but the little bugger is jammed on so tight i cant get it off. Ive tryed everything i know of to get it off but with no luck , can anyone suggest any other ways of removing this with out damage to the wheel or hub . Was thinking of using heat to expand the metal then it might come loose but would this affect the hub as it ali many thanks !!
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Inside --> Hub bearing - washer - cam - dropout - axle bolt washer <-- Outside
http://tartybikes.co.uk/images/echotr/large_trrear116d2.jpg
Wow that was fast adam nice one. Just like that, nice to see your as quick here as you are at tartys. Top man
Do you know of any chain / tension issues with the knoxx foxx like having to use those shaddy half link set ups thanks -
Im now about to fit my first ever pair of snail cams to my knoxx 26". Just wanted to know how to set them up onto the frame and then to the wheels it self . Iv had a quick look on the video guides on the tartybikes web site but this only shows how to get the best tension on the chain and wheel alignment. Any help on how to fit would great but pictuers would be super smahing great . Maybe someone should do a wiki guide to snail cams just a thought but thanks for the help in advance guys !!
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where did they leak from? its losing pressure but didnt know if it was from the body or the callipers...
As far im aware the Echo cnc brake dosent leak. Or do you mean the Echo TR brake . If so some do some dont . If your lucky then youll get one that dosent leak .
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That will be your problem then.
Whats that ment to mean cause it sounds a tad sarcastic to me ??? Or am i missing something here ?
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Well im glad to see its the same for most and not just me bein a class A dumm arse. I would still like to know what the ideal wheight for a stock bike is . I mean just the norm not the absolute top end of the spectrum .
Iv seen 26" come in at 10kg 12kg is this the average or less or even more thanks guys and some gals !!!!
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Is it jusy me or does the search function on the forum work or not .Ive tryed puting in many diffrent words related to trials such as : Weight , tyryes, brakes ect and they all come up blank. The resson i ask is cause iv seen many new threads being attacked for asking simple questions and not using the search function. Basicaly my Question is : What should or is a good weight for a stock 26" trials bike as im now gonna finish my build and want to compare it to others on the forum .
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also wondering about using 170, 160 mm cranks? any better one to go for?
The parts you chosen are tip top . And id go for 170mm cranks if your a 6 footer. But i must also say i feal like im on a class A drug reading your post in that size text .Calm it down dude !!!
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right, at the moment my 04 maggie lever is pretty shagged just leaks all the time and i have to bleed it like evry ride and its getting annoying, i'v heard the the TR levers are very prone to leaking my mate had one and just went back to a maggie lever after a week or so, what i'm wanting to know is where they leak from and if its fixable?? then i could buy the lever off him saving money i dont have anyway, cheers for any help in advance guys .
Some leak some dont. I was lokking at those myself at one piont and asked the same question . From what i gather there ok as far as a lever goes and only leak at the master cylinder due to not bein cleaned when made ( swarf ) or dirt in the cylinder how true this is im not sure. If any help i never did buy them . Id say im 50/ 50 on these.
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You may have a little trouble drilling the heli coil, their rather hard!!!
I agree its mild steal and would be hard to drill out without ruining your mounts. you could try a penatrating oil around the threads and whip it out that way .
Cant you show us any pics !!
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right i got up this morning and after 2 months my monty project frame was finnished ready to build. got most way throught the build and tryed tightening my maggie bolts. the were bottoming out on the frame so i used a bigger spacer . that worked fine on one side but then i realised that the top left mount needed a heliciol . so i drill tapped and inserted the ciol. i came to putting it back together all was fine exept the mount i helicioled but this was stiffer.i took it all apart and threaded a spare bolt into it. it got harder and harder to turn then it snapped. so now ive got half a alloy bolt stuck in a somehow incorrect heliciol.anyone got any ideas on how to get the bolt out. ( theres about 3 mm sticking out) and when i get it out how to correct drill or replace the heliciol. pleese im urgent to ride sometime this week . i havent been riding for 2 months now!!!
Is the bolt stuck inside the helicol and this is stuck inside the frame you taped. If so just get some mole grips on the bolt and undo it taking the coil out along with the bolt . Then re tap with m6 to take an m6 outer thread Coil , Which should have an internal thread of m5 .. Should work if im on your wave lenght >>
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Heard this story on Radio-1 on friday 5th, that the government are secretly working with local councils in microchipping our bins so that when the new laws passes parliament, councils will have powers to charge us for how much litter we throw out. Makes you wonder what else has been microchipped under our noses.
I wouldnt worrie so much about chips and trakers in bins . If anyone hasent seen zigeist or new world order on the net saying they want this rubbish inside humas to limit where and how far they go also to see what and where they spend there money they should find it NOW !!! God damm goverment could run a kids paly ground let alone our great country up the ENGLAND
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Yeah thats what I was gonna suggest, you'll probably learn a lot trying to repair the other lever. The key to taking anything apart for the first time is to just go slowly and record how it all goes together. Do whatever you need to for it to make sense, take photos, draw diagrams etc to make it easier to understand. And if it does go all wrong we can always try to help.
That sounds like a plan to me . Ever since i was little i had my nose stuck into whatever the old man was trying to rebuild or destroy when it came to bikes ,Engines, cars etc. Then soon as i got my first bike as a nipper and the old man was at work out came the tools and hammer . I could never actually put the damm thing back together and if i did there was always that mystery bolt or washer left over. But its about trial and error and giving it ago. which i did and he was never to chuffed to come home and see my new bike in bits But like what was said above by Matt its about taking your time and having a go otherwise you stand still without learning nothing while the world keeps on spinin.Dont be affraid to give things a go and if you do feck it up you"ll know what not to do next time.
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YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS, the brakes works pumped it hard n loads of black stuff came out and then reattached hoses and bled and now its awesome
:D even though i have upside down lever on left lol but rather that than just a front brake Thanks for everyones help
Nice one glad we could be of assistance to you. lol . Dosent really matter its upside down thats how mine is fitted so happy days
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Hi, i have bought an onza woodstock and im looking at getting an isis BB for a set of tensile cranks i have bought. Will be running a fixed cog/bash at fron and a hub with freehub at the back.
Have measured the bb wudth and i have measured 73mm, anyone know if this is correct for the frame ? Also what lenght of axle will i need to have on the bb as to get a descent chainline and not to foul the chainstays.
David
Sorry to spam your thread but thought it makes sence not to start a new topic as iv got a simalar question :
Getting my new Koxx foxx in a couple off days and also wondered what bb lenght il need . Im running 170 mm echo cranks with trialtech halfring bash with a tensile 60 front freewheel . So basicly what lenght bb would i need oh its square taper if that adds any thing to the mix thanks in advance people !!
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thanks mate, i shall have a lookey
I agree 18t up front is the way to go.. I run 18 / 15 on stock so should be ok ..
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its really doing my head in nothing is happening .. Myt have to invest in siringe then
i really dont understand why it isnt working..thanks luke
that helped :/
I would if i were you mate will save a lot off stress . Revolver doesnt say much but his words are like gold ..... SOLID... lol
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tried it again, and nothing the lever is just empty and just flops down feels like nohtnig is inside at all... what can i do to make the lever feel like it has something inside its just dead nothing is working :/
I think if it was me i would check my lines for leaks also the fittings too. Then call tarty for a syringe as they cost pence to buy and will save you a brain hemrage over the stress and then pump 3 or 4 syringe fulls of oil / fluid which ever through the lines and take it from there . Iv never trusted the bath bleed method ..... Sorry revolver but still good work . Give this a go luke and see where you stand after this is done mate
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anyone help?
i dont have a siringe it broke.. what can i do? the lever hasnt gone like the other one, its just nothing if you no what i mean..i think there is no water inside or something what can i do lol
Thanks
Like i said syringe bleed it any diy shop sell them, as do the mighty tarty order today up and running tomorow if not re try the bath bleed method cant see it having the same out come on your lever body .
just take your time on the bath bleed method if you choice to do it good luck !!!
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Switched hoses over to another lever and cylinders and tried to bleed once again but nothing is happening what do i do? its not gone like the other lever or anything like that.... how do i get the air out so i can bleed proper ... ? because obvs when changing hoses air got in etc and nothing is happening just dead ... and lever flops down
Helppp please
Id say try bleeding it by the syringe method if you cant get on with the bath bleed . I always use the syringe method for my bleeds even though bath bleed is simpler to do . just make sure you have the bleed nipple on the lever at the highest point . If any help i bleed from slave cylinders up to the lever it normally takes me 2 or 3 syringe fulls to get a good bleed.
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Hi Kenny and welcome to the forum mate. Where are you based i norfolk as there is a few riders in norfolk if your looking people to ride with at any time.