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scotty007

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Posts posted by scotty007

  1. Hi there,

    Im Mark...I'll be honest. Im only here to hopefully sell a bike! Not telling you which one, untill I can be validated! That way it can be much more accesible to all members.

    All I will say, its a 20" and It's a classic.

    Sadly, due to a major crash a few years back, i've lost confidence in riding trials.. and so stick to other sides of cycle sports,

    So anyway, If someone can validate me that would be awesome.

    This has to be the worst case of validation "Crash and Burns" iv seen to date in NMC. :giggle:

  2. Hi, just reading through, and i, like everyone else had the same problem, but, if you have the cranks i had, then this should help

    |-----|-------- <-- bolt end of crank, if you can imagine the square taper being perpindicular to the shaft of the crank (Taper is the wierd square

    | [-] | -------- <-- thing, middle left, incase you can't understand the diagram) this type, in my experience, is about as useful as a peado

    |-----|-------- <-- trying to thread a needle in a nursery, right now if you can imagine it being 25 degrees turned like this

    ````````/

    ``````` /

    `````` / ``````/``<-- I know not exactly 25 degrees but it gives you an idea, as oppossed to the above it is not perpindicular and i find this works alot

    ````` / ``````/ ``<-- better, i have been riding this design for the best part of 7 months and it has not failed me yet, i havent ugraded because mainly

    `````/ ` [-]``/``` <-- i cant save up for love nor money, ha ironic, sorry, anyway this works well. sorry for the random commers it wouldn't fit properly

    ```````````/`````<-- on the page and would not look like anything i wanted it to

    ``````````/

    And i really hope this works well for you guys cus' if you cant understand it then its been a massive waste of my time, bout 3 hours, and i accidentally deleted the first one i did, very annoying, so if it helps, much appriciated, again very very very apolagetic of the diagram i just hope it can make as much sense to you as it does me? and the bloke who said give it welly, THAT IS VERY GOOD, i got a mate to hold my bike, and got a 4 metre'ish scafolding pole, attatched it to the allen key on he end of the bolt and had some fun hanging off it, was PRO!

    Twitch :)

    EDIT: the first one is crap, the second works!

    Ahhhhhhh WTF Am i missing something here or is my laptop still in the stone ages and dosent work properley cause all i can see is a lot of sqigle and arrows so where do you get "Good Post " from im not sure. If i was you id listen to the advice given by the other members on page 1. +1 for effort on the post but just dont get it sorry mate .

  3. Sounds like a plan to me im just waiting on a rear brake should be here eney day now and im not to sure on what Scotts waiting for frame ect.

    Biddle

    Itching to get and ride with you boys but waiting on my frame from norway a few other bits a pieces and il be up for it . keep us posted !!

  4. Yes pretty much, just tryall are usually odd sizes, but these should be fine if used with normal forks such as +0mm etc.

    So yeah they'll fit.

    I run the hope mini on a set of echo sl with a 203mm rotor so yes would be the answer in my opinon.

  5. I've found that the best way is to do it from the bottom. Take the reservoir cap off, push a shit load of oil through(flicking the hose with your finger to release any trapped air), do the bottom bleed nipple up, and roll the diaphram in as they do in the tutorials. :)

    Glad someone asked this question as im now also about to bleed both my hope brakes with dot 4. Ive tryed so mant times to get a half decent bleed when first filling the reservior and opening and closing the bleed nipple, but this always leaves my brakes fealing spongy. So like you i was thinking of bleeding from bottom upwards. Also would running maggie slaves off a hope mini lever work, I think iv seen this posted somewhere on the forum before but i would like confermation really .Would be useing same bleed tecnique as stated above for both brakes.

  6. Are you trying to imply that i'm sat here with my cock in my hand? Bizarre. I wasn't knocking him for trying, far from it, i've been very tempted to do the same if i had the time and resources; what i was trying to point out was the obvious fact that the general geometry of the frame will be as far removed from a trials bike as possible and that it should have been something he should have considered in the first place. Guess its a case of live and learn and try again. Which no doubt he will do (Y)

    As boys we all get caught with it in our hands at some point but no mate i wasnt. I was just giving the lad some positive feed back regarding getting off his arse and giving something a go, may not turn out to well by the looks of things but Hey ! we all start somewhere and with time things can only progress :)

  7. No one saying that you aren't making a tester bike as such, its just with the current geo you wont be able to ride it for trials in any way, if you can ride it at all; so testing it for strength will be very difficult.

    Well done for giving it a go man ! Its nice to see someone who"s willing to give it a go instead of sitting around with there cock in there hand. One thing though im glad your going to be the test dummy for the frame and not others + 1000 for effort.

  8. why did you massivly bump this?

    Got some rimjam material from a freind and was thinking of making my own pads for the lgm backings. This stuff is so hard to cut 100% true i could never actualy do it properley.Any good ideas on how to cut this stuff would be good. Iv tryed: Hot knifes, razor blades, hacsaws, and now iv come unstuck, so the pad material is gatthering dust. Ideas welcome .

  9. Cheers, Just that i got the bike like that so i didnt know how to take erm off etc.. What size free wheel tool would i need ?

    I think there all the same size for the ffw but dont take that as gospal but 99% sure

  10. hello i currently run a bashring but it is on the opposite foot i want it on for example i ride with left foot forward and it only protects when my right foot is forward. My question is do i need a free wheel tool to just move it round because i also have a front freewheel?

    Thanks

    Luke

    Yer just undo the freewheel and re position the bash ring so it covers the bottom of the freewheel with the left pedal facing forwards this should do the trick !

  11. Similar to what?

    I have to say, everything you post is either complete bullshit, or completely useless.

    Some good replys there to get me thinking about the sl but at nearly 80 quid a pop (and i need two) might be out of range. Especialy when i have to explain to the missus why she cant go out news years, you know how it is fellas. I think its going to be the echo TR levers if tary dont th echo cnc that is, was thinking of the echo cnc only cause they look more compact and reliable and more PIMP

  12. Fund Your PayPal Account

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    Well i think that covers everthing i need to know about paypal . Such a good post thanks for taking the time to help me out. If there are any pre members reading this post this is how to get validated fast as . Paypal now up and runnin sweeeeeet

  13. Which lever are you looking at in particular? None of them are particularly big - the SL looks like two twigs bound to your bars, and the TR looks broadly similar to an old RB lever or an old style HS33 lever (but nicer...).

    Was thinking echo cnc if sold seperately but the TR complete lever was my second chioce . Hearing the posts regarding these i might stick with them just cant be dealing with fresh bleeds every week . Guess il get on to tarty and see if they do the echo cnc on its own first. Anybody got the TR fitted and working with good reviews might sway me though !

  14. The main problem with them is if the levers still have swarf or gunk inside the cylinder, it shits the seals up and causes leaks. If, when you get a new lever, you strip it down and clean out the cylinder and make sure it's all tickety boo you should have no problems.

    Well if that is the only problem with these brakes might look into a bit further. Just one thing they look as if there quite big and bulky for a brake or is the picture on tartys site exploded or zoomed . Just tryin to get a better picture of what they look like on the bike thats all

  15. Get a TR, much better

    Yer was looking at buying them levers but iv heard that they need regular bleeding so i was put off by this . Has anybody else heard of theses brakes need regular bleeding or was this just bad advice or judgement

  16. Hi all well was just wondering if anybody knew if tartybikes did the echo cnc complete brake lever on its own without the slaves. Or if not does anybody know of a shop that does sell them thanks people and HAPPY NEW YEAR to you all.

  17. hi maybe its me being think but iv never used paypal before , ive just set up my paypal bank account details which i need to confirm later today. My question is do you need to transfer money from your bank account to your paypal account or can you just leave the money in the bank but still use paypal to purchase goods and the money gets tranferd automaticly over from bank to paypal if not how long do i havr to wait once iv put money from bank to paypal to make a purchase hope this is as clear as dog shit cause in certainly confused thanks for helping out a dumd arse

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