scotty007
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Posts posted by scotty007
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Doubt il be able to do that, did i do something wrong for it to do that?
Not buy the sounds of it you didnt but trust me its not that hard to do belive in yourself it sounds harder than it looks so go for it , its only 2 things that you have to take off . it will probaly fix your problem too. just take your time lay the parts out on a table as you take it apart and hey presto. its the only way you will learn how to fix problems . Its called trial and error .
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Take the piston out, oil the piston, oil the inside of the cylinder, put it back together.
Said like a true pro + 1
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i have no idea how to do that :/ have i messed my brake up? all i did was undo the screws under water ? and then tried the bleed exactly the same as the revolver video?
i wouldnt say its fecked buy no means so chilll. undo the screw the hold the lever blade on and remove. then undo the grub screw that ajusts the reach of the blade . The tpa system should then unatach from the body its self theres no need to remove the TPA from the actuall blade so leave this on . Inside the lever body you should see the piston gentley try and pull this out the piston spring is located behind this take this out to clean inside the of the body . Check that your seals are fine and all claen then run a little oil around the piston seal to lube up and then refit it . Remember the piston spring first and then the piston itself reattach the TPA and screw the grub screw back into the brass barrel and refit the lever blade srew . give it a couple of pulls to see if it has freed up then rebleed the brake . If you get major stuck you might find a maggie blade diagram on goolge
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hasnt helped it
it was fine then all of a sudden when stiff ?maybe it is the piston and seals inside the lever body try srtipping it out and giving it a good clean up run a little oil around the piston and seal and re bleed it bleed with 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze .
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just trying to bleed my brake in the bath and its gone hard the lever is stiff what do i do, its first time i have ever done it lol ?
thanks luke
Try and losen the bolt off that holds the lever blade on just enough so the blade dosent woble around . Cant see it being the piston and seal that sits inside the lever body mine went stiff like yours and with a bit of wd 40 it came unstuck now works perfect
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Myself, Biddle and Jimbo limbo are planning on riding lowestoft sea front next sat(6th),
So, we thought we would see if anybody fancied joining us,
We will be meeting at the cleremont peir at 10.
All are welcome, the more the merrier,
Thanks,
LeeW.
maybe one day within the next century il be able to get my bike up and running so i too can meet up with the riders from east cost happy trialing boys !!!!!!!
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RIght basically my lever pulls quite far back and the pads are as close as possible without touching/rubing. Why is this usally when you put the pads that close (on my old bike) the lever pulled to about half way or just above and felt really strong..? What can i do to sort it ?
Thanks luke
Sounds like you have air traped within the system id try a fresh bleed then go from there ....
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Hi guys,
i am interested in getting my frame painted, its pretty scratch filled. Currently it has a coat of paint on it. A few questions here.
2. what kind of paint should i get for DIY painting?
3. Do i need to sand away the current layer of paint?
4. Is it required to strip my bike to just the frame before painting?
thanks!
Try theses links from the forum when stripping paint !! http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=147337
and then this might help with the paint you need to use http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=147522 . Happy days !
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Not fussed if anyones tried em, as I haven't myself but all bit like old renthal grips I had on my trials motorbikes so should be fine.
Just can't make ma mind up as to lock on, cable tie or just which looks coolest in general!
Oh yeah, and I hate the feeling of foam, goes through me
Saying that i did used to run odi lock on grips and they performed really well untill they got a little old and they turned like putty and got all sticky and gunky. So if i had to vote it would be lock ons all the way . Plus they look pimp
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Right, I'm so bored at work that I'm gonna buy my rear sprocket and new grips.
I'm going for a Trialtech Sport screw on 15t sprocket but I can't decide between the grips so I'm putting my money in your hands.
Will run a poll with the 3 that I'm considering and the winner by 4.30pm shall be purchased, yes, I'm that bored!
Let the vote begin!
Cant vote for either of them as havent tryed none of them so my vote goes like this : Trialtech foam .. Sorry dude
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Im on here cause i am and have no frame to fit my wheels into aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
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i need help to know why i cant use any forum features and i want to sell my bike what do i do??
Many of the forum features you cant use because you are not validated as a full member . Once you are validated into full members you will be able to use all that the forum has to offer !
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Hi all!
I'm currently selling an Orange Zero frame that I've fully restored to like new condition.
NICE ! But thiking you might get stick for putting it up for sale on or in NMC .... Fingers crossed !!!
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nah i wouldn't use a wire brush, you'll scratch the hell out of it...i used a credit card to scrape the paint off and loads of Nitro
Na not that way! Use the wire scouer pads you get from any five and dime shop like wilkos. You get 3 for 90p or sumit gay like that.
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Paint stipper, or is thats nitromores?
Yer its the same thing but stronger than cheap shit !! THIS
OH Burns the hell out of your skin so id recomend latex gloves !
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You dont even need to leave nitromourse for an hour, like 5 mins will do and the paint will start flaking/bubbling off.
I used nitromourse laquer remover on my old school saracen mad, got it done in 1 day,came out spot on
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OK, so basically, i need to know from beginning to end the process of drilling a rim.
I have trial-tech mod wheels, on trial-tech hubs, with 3 cross.
Things I need to know:
Do I have to do-build wheel?
What size would be effective yet strong?
Do i need special drill piece?
How do i measure distance?
Has anybody done this successfully before?
I have an old rim I'm going to try it out on first, but still hesitating about wanting to do it.
Thanks, Craig.
I once drilled out my halo combat rear wheel using a 20mm hole saw. I didnt bother de builing the rim as such all i did was got my rim which was is a double skined rim took the tyre and inertube off marked out the centre of the rim( 44mm divided by two ) gave me 22mm to the center . Then i measuerd from the center of the spoke nipple to the center of the next spoke nipple and dot punched and tiny divit into the rim to mark it out . I then used a 5 mm drill bit to go through the rim as a pilot hole. using a 20mm hole saw i then drilled out the rim in between every spoke apart from where the valve sits and the join in the rim. Mine came out perfect with no weakness to the rim what so ever . Just make sure you get all the metal shavings out of the rim before fitting the tyre and tube as these will puncture the tyre every time you ride. IM guessing that you can drill out any rim as long as its double skined. Single wall rims wont be as strong to start with so i would advise against this . But good luck with it .
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Welcome to trials-forum. Having multiple active accounts is frowned upon. Would you like your other account disabled?
Ha Ha you got busted. Sorry had to be said. Oh and see there is some perfectly good help right there for you. ( Would you like your other account disabled?)
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I am gonna get some new grips but im not sure whether to get some echo, DMR or a type of foam grip. What are the best type of grips?
Like most people id say trialtech foam. Ive just brought my first pair and they feal amazing compared to every other grip iv had. Its 1000% trialtech foam
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At work we usually put a small ring of grease where that seal sits to help prevent leaks, might be worth a try. Is there any damage to the inside caliper faces? Any small scratches could prevent the faces from sitting flush and sealing properly
It could also be that the fluid you see is just fluid that got trapped between the faces when you were bolting the caliper together, and not actually a sign of leaking from that seal. Don't completely dismiss the chance that it is leaking somewhere else or that the bleed has air in it.
looked at it again after your post and a coffee to calm my nerves. Both faces seam fine no harsh marks, pits or scratches, so it was out with the grease this time, and all seams fine this time.
lever feals solid and comes near to the bar when pulled with no visable leaks. Just an idea would putting a cable tie around the lever and bars in full lock show up anything. ie: leaks or traped air . And thanks for the feedback lads, as always its quick and direct.
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Hi just serviced my Hope mini 3 caliper and noticed a small leak coming from the caliper body itself .Iv taken it apart twice now to check everything is as it should be and it is, but the little bugger keeps leaking at the same spot . The bleed is perfect untill a couple of lever pulls and goes all spongy. I just wanetd to know if there is a fix for this such a sealent that can close the gap much like a seal on car engine cover . The diagrm shows where the leak is coming from thanks people
Well iv tryed again and again. Taken the caliper body apart cleaned the inside looked at the O ring and there is no split or holes present all refitted fresh bleed which is good, untill you pull the lever. Its still got a tiny tiny leak hardley noticeable really but its there. Im stuck for ideas now and thinking of trying to put some sort of sealent around the edge of the caliper to get a more perment seal any thoughts on this or sorting this pain in the arse will go a long way
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I would strip it again as there might be the smallest particle of mud/dust causing it?
Was thinking the same thing lukas. But also going to check the O ring as suggested but cant see it myself as i was super carefull when replacing it but you never know its worth ago .
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Did you rebuild it with new seals? There is a small oring between the halfs that could have a small nip or even just be too old to be effective. I would try changing that as a precaution and go from there.
No.7 on that diagram.
Yer all the seal were replaced when stripped down all the nuts are done up super tight to make sure. This has me stumped and in need of a fix asap .
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Hi just serviced my Hope mini 3 caliper and noticed a small leak coming from the caliper body itself .Iv taken it apart twice now to check everything is as it should be and it is, but the little bugger keeps leaking at the same spot . The bleed is perfect untill a couple of lever pulls and goes all spongy. I just wanetd to know if there is a fix for this such a sealent that can close the gap much like a seal on car engine cover . The diagrm shows where the leak is coming from thanks people
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in Trials Chat
Posted · Edited by scotty007
You shouldnt have to but anything for this fix . Just remember to lube the inside of the cylinder and around the seal. I used a light oil something like hair cliper oil . defo not wd 40. As long as you take your time and remember what goes where you will be fine. Plus you have the option of asking for help on the forum if it goes pete tong. Good luck matey !!!!!