D Rock 45

Hello am looking to start competitive riding, but not no were to start looking for them and dont know much about them. Im 16 and live in west lancashire and been riding for 2 years now. am at a stage were ive got confidence to start out in competitive events. I ride an onza blade 2011 most parts on it are echo, wheels an rims ,crank arms an freewheel ,forks an stem. brakes are maggies but front is soon to be change to hope hub an disc brake. riser bars an use a booster, will this set up determine on what events i can enter. It would be a great help if anyone can point me in the right direaction or the name or local of any upcoming events for beginers. Thanks in advance dieter

same happens hear, i think its safe to say its the freewheel, the bash ring stays central an no up an down movement when cranks arms spun edit: is there any freewheels that are good quality for under 60 pound edit: looking at the V!Z Seventy two on tartys are they any good, my mates got one an says its great, but thats one persons opinion. has anyone got one an have problems with it

it has helped. i took my chain off an spun the crank arms round slowly. you an see the whole of the freewheel move up when the right peddle is facing forward an dips down when spun round with the right peddle then facing to back. i work from the loose spot. but when i get the right tension in the loose spot the i tight spot is way to tight causing a clunking sound as the chain is to tight on the hub

having problems with getting my chain tension right its lose on one spot and rely tight in an other, recently had tarty bikes fix my chain problem an had it worked better then it did before. they said i need a new chain an to stop the lose spot tight spot change my crank arms from onza to some other crank arms were the freewheel screws strait on the the arm to reduce the tight an lose spot. i was also told the same by selectbikes to change them as i bought the new parts of them. ive bought echo crank arms and a new chain, an it hasn't made a difference. so having spent the money an it hasn't made a difference is getting on my nerves could there be any other reason why i have this annoying problem, if any one could shed a little light on the subject it would be a big help. thanks in advance dieter edit : could it be the freewheel am using. its a tensile 96 click

am with mike on foot wear. i wear vans bucky lasek skate shoes an find they have perfect grip because of the honey cone tred on them. same with all vans, would recoment the dmr v8s to

front of my bike is fine i think nice an light, hears the set up anyway echo urban forks mcpuddey riser bars echo stem echo sl non disc hub normal spokes echo urban rim same grind kenda 8 block tyre fsa head set clarks lock on, changing soon any way the warn out. thanks mate thats a lot to change, theres a few thing i would like to keep though as ive only just got them. neon bb, but i will change the crank arms or hollow them out to an the echo tyre,i think its the old one says original trials on it. probable mod the rim, thinking of making the holes bigger if possible. if that fails i will just build a new wheel an buy new crank arms. i can change the chain, the one on now is getting old is been passed down on 3 bikes for got to say that am trying not to spend much money if possible. Edit: its the new echo tyre

echo hub not sure what one. can find it on tartys dont think they sell it any more. echo urban rim(medium grind) double buttered spokes wilko inner tube echo tyre 2011 blade frame noen carbon bb trial tech kool chain 3/32 onza crank arms slim jim gusset peddles

i was thinking of building a new wheel or just buying new rim an keeping my hub as it is light enough an has nothing wrong with it. i could do with getting new crank arms. ones i have are battered.any crank arms i could get for a decent price.the bottom bracket is fine using a neon carbon, peddles are fine as well. might ditch the wide chain an get a light bmx chain or some think. thank for the advice Filo

thanks, just asking a question . need to find out more before i give it the go ahead an mod it or find out it not a good idea an leave my wheel as it is

iv'e read on here a few times about some people making there wheels lighter by removing inner straightening walls by angle grinding them out. am not sure i would like to do that, so i was wondering if there is any other way of loosing some weight with out loosing strength. iv'e took into mind that quite a bit of weight comes from tyres (using echo tyre) an inner tubes (wilko tubes)also the chain (Trialtech K810 Kool, 3/32). The rim i am using is an echo urban an plan to make it lighter an is spoked to an echo hub. if anyone can give some advice on how to go about it, it would be a great help. also if you have made your wheel lighter in some way can you tell me if it made a difference or not. thanks in advance dieter

true. but i like it the way it is, stands out from the rest

so its normal to have some frame flex then thanks mate i have another pair of citrus pads for the back . just thought id use the black maggies for a bit see how they were. i will be putting the citrus pads on when the blacks maggies have worn out or i dont think there doing well anymore

rides realy well, nice an sturdy when your on the back wheel, an yes its light also quite tough dosnt dent easy from the few times ive knock it by mastake. only thing am not to sure on its the back hidro mount tubes . running the hs11 2011 long lever brake an there abit of flex to it even though ive got a brake booster. was wondering it if down to the lever being longer an having more leverage to it when braking.

the green rim tape an back hub were off my old bike . i was thinking of red to replace the green tape as it goes with the bronze well

thanks mate. it weighs just over 9kgs the front seem alot lighter than the back. might be getting a new back rim for it

Hello all I built this bike two weeks after christmas desiding it was time to get rid of my onza pro 2009. First day of putting the bike together with some parts of my old bike an some new parts.I come a problem an set me back a day of no riding on a. I will exsplane the problem under the picture. Id thort i give it a good chance to wear in an look use before i posted pictures:) It rides realy smooth considering there was a problem with it 2 days ago with the freewheel. which i posted on hear asking how to fix it. an now i have fixed it but may have to get a new freewheel in the future. othere than that it has a nice feel to it when comes tricks with it being lighter an have fast rolling tyres . Hope you like my bike, i no i do Quick spec of bike. Frame onza blade 2010 Bottom braket neon carbon square taper Head set fsa pig hope spacers Stem echo TR Bars risers simtra mcpudgy grips clarks lock on Crank arms are my old onza ones Peddles gusset slim jims Rims both echo urbans Hubs echo front SL non disc . Rear is also an echo i can find find the desing name of it Freewheel tensile 96 click chain trailtech k710 kool Brakes magura front with echo TR leaver running onza cirtrus pads. back brake new 2011 magura running magurs pads Tyres kenda small 8 block an echo rear The axle was sticking out on the left side causing the axle to not clamp the forks the the spacer on the hub. sorry for fussy picture my camara didnt like the close up. I took the part into college an asked if they can hollow it out by 2mm deep an 1mm wide. An so they did. now its a nice fit an the wheel is spot on senter running smooth. Thanks Dieter

thanks i did put it back the way it came apart. just wondering if it was possible.

problem fixed . completly cleaned it out two of the springs were snaped an one of the tensiles where messed up because of it . so they have been replace an regreased with Weldtite TF2 Lithium . now working realy smooth an loud clicking is back i notests there were 4 flat spacers holding the spings an tensiles in . would it be possible to remove one to get a better fiting on the bearings or is that a bad idea ?

i do most of my trick to the right swing the back out that way . am right foot forward . but some tricks may seem easyer to do left with still right foot forward . like my 180s i swing the front round to the left with power coming from right foot foward an left foot pushing it round to the right. side hops to the left ,right foot aplying power and pushing to the left with left foot back out the way helping with just getting up . nown an then i do it opposite an can only get half the hight. fakey out to 180 i can go both ways with that no sure how i learn them haha . its all down to riding preferences just keep at it both ways an you will get it soon

thanks mate much appreciated. i will be working on it tomorrow.

is the lock ring the part with the to small indents opposite each other an the writing on it. first time taking one apart dont know what the parts are . if it is how do i remove it an what tools are needed ? also is it a normal thread right tight left loose or the othere way ?

i was wondering how you would go about taking a freewheel apart i need to take a look inside of it because its not sounding to good an has a quite a bit of play between click engagement an quite rough(i dont have my chain super tight its set up just right) . i have a old one to take apart first so i know what i doing before i go braking any think , also will bits spring out when i do this ? thanks

i fitted the drive side first then the left as normal

After buying a new frame onza blade, an putting my old onza pro bottom braket an crank arms on it . the left crank arm is rubbing on my frame when i ride. an theres alot of space on the freewheel side . I checked it an theres no play in both the left an right crank arm an blots are tight an dont come loose. The same with the bottom braket its all fine an running smooth . Is theres any way i can space it out, or will i have to buy new parts ? If theres any advice you can give me it will be much appreciated as i will be able to ride again one fixed Thanks