Kieran Morrison
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Posts posted by Kieran Morrison
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How would i tell if its cracked the carbon? I noticed the crack at half 3 if it helps.
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The one you made this topic about, which was the crack.Photos will help but I reckon it might be just a bit of pressure from the clamp has caused a crack in the resin
Would that weaken the bars or will it be alright? Ill upload pictures later on, riding just now like normal and it hasnt grown.
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Where is this located?In the clamp area or elsewhere?
The scratch or crack? The crack about 2cm away from the clamp on the Y of 'try' and the scratch is about 4 cm away under the Y
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They are the carbons. I figure its not a crack as its appearing on the other side aswell and on other letters, nothing on the actual bar itself. Not sure if its paint though anyone else had this?
Also there are no gouges out of them, a small scratch after sciffing a rail but nothing serious
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Not really, it hasnt chipped away just a slight crack in the paint ill upload pics later
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Hi, it looks like i have a crack on my bars but its on the writing. Are these painted on and has anyone ever had the paint crack/split? Just want to re assure myself i havent cracked them!
Thanks
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So can i just tighten it the same torque as my trialtech high risers?
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I think I'll be fine using none of this assembly compound stuff, not really someone who goes mental with an allen key and over tightens everything so think it should be fine.
Thanks for the help
Edit: assuming all who said they have run the bars for years with no assembly compound are using 4-bolt stem clamps?
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Yes. You need to use "Fiber Grip" or something along those lines. It basically is a grease which increases friction on the bar. It means a lower torque can be used to clamp the bar down, reducing the chances of crushing the bar and yet still giving good hold on the bar. I certainly wouldn't use a bar without it as it is either going to slip or crush otherwise!
The try alls have a textured area where the stem clamps though, does this act as assembly compound or is it still a good idea to use it?
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I don't know personally but I'd say if you value the idea of a warrenty then I'd do it.
Try alls don't come with a warranty
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Hi,
I've ordered a set of try all carbon bars and was reading the trial tech carbons fitting instructions which mentions that if you have a split clamp stem you should apply carbon fibre assembly compound to it. Is this essential to use or will I be alright without it?
Thanks
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Yeah the lever pistons slow returning haha, would lubing that be a good idea?
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Sounds like the piston in the lever, Get a new seal for it to try first, If not get a new piston kit from someone! The cylinders wont move in quick if the piston up the lever Aint free enough.
Well if thats what u mean anyway?
The cylinders move in fine but they come back really slowly. What is a seal?
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My mates having problems with his 05 maggy (using 2011 slave cylinders).
When he pulls the brake, the lever comes back fine when he lets go, but the piston inside comes down very slowly and the pistons in the slave cylinders do the same (one is worse than the other). We've bled it a few times properly and it has gotten worse after each bleed. Whats the problem and how do we fix it?
Thanks
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cheers for the advice, ill just wait until TartyBikes have Trialtechs back in stock
Theyre back in stock now mate
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Nope, barbed fittings are m6 and shroud nuts are m8 I believe.
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You wont have the problem if you get the 2012 Urbans, i never ran a crownrace with trialtechs and the headset was perfect
So I wont need a compression ring with 2012 Urbans?
Going to get them anyway as trials addict have them in stock
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You will get some play in the head set, it will feel pish and wear things out quicker than normal. If you slide one of the bearing cartridges over the steerer tube you will see it can move side to side, the compression ring fills this gap evenly around the whole tube.
Is there anywhere I can get compression rings from? Do all headsets use the same sized compression ring?
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it is.it centers the steerer between the bearings and makes the whole thing adjustable
So what will happen if I don't use the compression ring?
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Crown race is just the bottom one on the forks, which you can either hammer off with a spanner or lever it with a screwdriver
The one at the top of the headset has another name, although there are several components at the top of the headset, could you specify which one?
I don't really know how to explain it because I've lost it haha. Pretty certain it was just a black ring with a slit in it though, sat at the very top of the headset to cover up the bits inside the cup. If you know what I mean, is it important?
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There is one on the forks I had on right at the bottom of the steerer (stuck on pretty tight!). Is this the whole crown race or is the bit which sits between the stem and the top bit of the headset also part of it?
Cheers
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They don't have black disc 2012 ones in stock and I'm a bit put off the 2012 ones as my mates have faded to a greenish colour haha
Thanks for the help though, will be ordering the 09's this week
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Hi,
I'm planning on ordering echo urban 09s this week and I'm wondering if There's anything I need to do to them before fitting them to my bike? I've seen that the 2012 versions already have an integrated crown race, do these forks have/need one?
I'm running the echo SL headset if it helps
Cheers
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Really small questions thread has been deleted I believe
I would pronounce it like 'haze'
Try All Carbon Paint Cracking
in Trials Chat
Posted
The big circle is the main one. It stops about 1mm before the gold outline of the writing.
The smaller circle is a tiny one (about 1/2 cm) which is half on the writing and half on the resin. You can see a line going inbetween the letters next to the smaller cirlce, its just under/over that, and im just assuming thatother line between the letters is meant to be there as theyre all over the place
when i scratch my nail over the smaller one i cant feel any bumps, maybe its a scratch but dont see how it could have scratched, ive been really careful with them.