wolf_rt

I've been watching a lot of vids, and i think i have noticed something that the best ones have in common.. Rythem... Many of the best 'looking' riders, seem to move to internal music. the correction hops and whatnot don't look bad, because there 'in time'. I don't mean necessarily that the riding is in time to the video music or anything.. but that would be cool... perhaps film yourself riding while listening to the 'video song' over and over ?? I also like to see the full follow through of each move in the vid.. ie the rider completely recovers from each move before the cut. I know that somethims you land an awesome move then fall over 1 second later.. fair enough.. but where possible include the full recovery, as it adds to a sense of completeness/smoothness.

Old School.. Mid School.. New School.. WTF??? Its a bike. It has geometry. This bike(The OP's bike, incase there is any confusion) looks sweet as to me.. I'd be proud to own it. Put a suspension fork, or playing cards in the spokes, if you want to mate.. I dont think i'll be posting a pic of my bike on this forum

clean them with wd40, then use baby oil. use some ear buds to clean and oil.

Hi mate.. Helicoiling is for repairing damaged thread, not the best option for removing a snapped bolt. 1st thing, how/why did the bolt snap? if it snapped because of over tightening/faulty bolt, then as long as the thread isn't to badly stretched, the snapped off part should come out fairly easily. If it is corroded in there and snapped trying to loosen it, then it will go hard. So take the wheel off to give good access, I presume you have the adapter plate off, and the bolt is snapped flush with the frame? I have seen people get these out by hacksawing a few mm into the mount, through the bolt, and unscrew with a flat screwdriver. if you decide to drill the bolt, go to the hardware store and get the smallest "Easy-Out" or similar, and the appropriate size drill bit, and attempt to get it out this way. If you have to drill the bolt out entirely and helicoil it, it is very hard to keep the drill centered on the hard bolt and not dig into the soft alloy casting. basically you drill the whole out to the size of the bolt exactly, tap a new larger thread, then fit a helicoil to reduce the thread size.. not really helpfull unless you can get the bolt out... If it goes badly, it would probably be easiest to weld up the whole, then drill and tap a new thread in the correct position. the hacksaw trick would be my choice, but i'm dodgy..lol

Actually considering the one at tarty bikes is double the price of the onza, and it seems to be in ok condition (im sure you will scratch it more. lol) its probably a pretty good deal.

I think that bike would be Awesome for a beginner.. It doesn't sound like you wanted to ride street? and that rockman looks like a nice bike to me I have no idea if its a good deal or not sorry. personaly i have found a local shop, http://www.rideitall.com who is going to build a bike out of a new frame and second hand parts for me. Definatly going to work out far better than importing. Im thinking of going to 26" personally... its hard to choose, especially without trying the difrent sizes. I would say just get a bike and ride it.. in a years time you will likley want something diffrent no matter what you start on. On the other hand. Get a bike that you like, so that you want to ride it! Good Luck.

Tie it on with hose clamps.. The Long bars to the axle could be just to set the height... Or.. Bind it on with string!! Im not joking, would be super strong as long as the bracket was hard up against the frame. And look cool (In a Mad Max kind of way)you could even coat (Soak) the string in Epoxy Resin for extra strength and permanance.

Hi Georg, Im currently in exactly the same position as you, looking to get my first trials bike, and have decided to get an Onza Zoot, also from Tarty bikes. I live in Australia and trials bikes don't seem to be available second hand (especially 24" Street bikes, The one supplier i have found only carries Inspired(too dear) and Echo(no street bikes) I have spent the last few days researching, and this is what I have decided...(Please, everybody feel free to comment as I have NO experiance) V-Brakes for the rear should be fine, but the booster is required. (if for no other reason than to stop the frame cracking. I had an Alloy GT MTB, so i know how much the frame can flex!!!) Try e-bay or LBS for a V-Brake booster, the Zoot spacing is 93mm. Also good brake pads (TNN LGV?) should be fitted (I am unsure of the quality of the factory ones) and the rim ground (after a few weeks of geting the hang of things). I believe the stock brake is perfactly fine, it is the levers that may want replacing, I'm going to try the stock levers and see how they go. The freewheel seems to have a bad rep, and should at least be carefully bedded in (gentle normal riding) or possibly ditched for an ECHO SL??? I also plan to fit an Avid BB7 CS2 front disk for a more progressive front brake. (though im unsure which size will match the Onza Fork, or if it will function with the stock brake levers.) fiting a front disk will require a new front hub. I'm thinking the TrialTech Race Front hub looks good. So... if i were you (which im not) I'd leave the back brake and get better levers (SD7??) and definatly fit a brake booster, you will find one somewhere. A quick google turned these up. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8215 http://www.rideitall.com/products/Echo-V%252dbrake-booster-%252d-Black.html

Hi, i am looking at getting a Zoot, but really don't like the fixed seat, as id like to be able to use a longer seat pole for commuting. Did you have any luck putting an adjustable seat post in?