niconj

Well... Sram bought Avid and their brakes so it's Avid in some way.

It's an official Hope statement so it should be true. I don't doubt that the M4 has enough power for trials. What I am really interested in is whether it has pad play like the saint has. That's what amazes me about the Trialzones; there's no pad play whatsoever. Coming from a Saint (well Zee with 810levers) this is a huge improvement. What I really don't like is the flimsy lever of the Trialzones. The 810 on the other hand is really confidence inspiring. Oh and I really like the Servo Wave of Shimano brakes. Hope should offer sth. like this. Edit: If you wanna try Saints I am selling my Zees with 810 levers and Goodridge braided hoses. Saint³ by niconj, on Flickr

Well, the feel of the Saint 810 lever is certainly better than that of the Trialzones. Having said that I am very happy with my Hopes and wouldn't suggest buying Saints anymore even though the 810 calipers don't seem to brake like the newer 820/640 ones. I think that the Hope Tech 3 lever feels better than the Race lever the Trialzone comes with so that might be a worthy upgrade. I've got one question though. Hope states that the Tech 3 lever has 5% more power than the Tech 2 one. They also stated that the Race lever has a better hydraulic advantage than the Tech 2. Do the 5% add up to an equal hydraulic advantage or not?

Oh... I forgot. An easy way to find out whether you need some more spaces is to try moving the axle from side to side as if trying to pull it out. If it moves only slightly you most certainly know that it's the axle stops' distance.

I had to try 3 times until I got the right number of spacers needed. I think I put 3x0.2mm on each axle stop. When you got the bearings out were they running smoothly? The bike looks ace. I'd go for a black crossover on the front brake or even a Y splitter though. Weight weenie probably.

I just got a mail from Echo: "This problem can be easily solved by using a half link chain or extra link of chain. There is nothing wrong with your parts but just the chain, please give it go and see how it fit." You can imagine my answer to them.

No problem. Also, to true your wheel you could've just screwed your TPA in and see where the wheel scrapes at the brake pads. Better than marking the tyre which in itself could be "buckled". Of course that doesn't mean that your wheel is centered, using the brake pad method, but at least it's true.

I didn't say that Sapim claimed that. It's just my personal experience. I have build 20 wheels with these nipples and know what I'm talking about. Using those nipples you don't need any grease, oil or whatever. I'd even go as far as to say that if you need DT Prolock nipples to make the wheel stay true, you don't really know how to build a wheel. If the spoke tension is homogeneous, there's no need for those gimmicks. Had this problem with my trialtech hub. The axle stops were too close so that the bearings couldn't touch them. As soon as I tightened the wheel, they were deformed in direction of the axle stop and the wheel didn't spin freely anymore. I had to get the bearings out and put 2 0.2mm washers on each axle stop so that the bearing was seated correctly. Spins fin now no matter how tight I tighten the bolts.

End of story. Got the 175mm rotor today and put it on. Fits perfectly and to my great surprise, there's no rubbing whatsoever when spinning the wheel. I didn't even have to face the IS mount. Now I just hope that Hope holds longer than my Zee, which was swapped for a new one under warranty. It's also braking pretty well considering that neither Jitsie pads nor Rotor are bedded in yet.

Get the Sapim Polyax nipples (brass or alloy) and you don't need any oil, grease or whatsoever. Due to their coating they turn very smoothly.

It is.

Damn and I just saw "The desolation of Smaug"...

Are you f**king kidding me? IS as in IS 2000. International Standard 2000....

Maybe this move only that your wheels are on one obstacle. It could be made with sth. like a static hop. You don't pedal just jump up-/forwards with the bike to land on the front wheel.

You knew it was going to snap didn't you?

WTF?!!! It is IS (mount).

Just to make it clear. I was answering to Martins post about IS being shit and all. For the record. I bough a 175mm rotor from Tarty which should arrive soon so the problem is solved. Thank you!

No. I meant the rubbing issue. As soon as the IS mount was faced, it worked with my trialtech forks.

On the front the brake works pretty well and it is IS.

So it's basically the seals that are the only impediment for using Dot or Mineral oil in this combination?

I read that Dot 5.1 doesn't do any damage to piston seals anymore. I may be mistaken. Is the lever ratio of an Echo Disc lever close to the Hope one. So basically it's only the lever that makes the power difference between Hope and Echo? edit: He just told me that he's neither using Mineral Oil nor Dot 5.1 but sth. else. Not water... We'll see.

And another bump. A mate of mine is going to pair an Echo TR lever to a Hope Trialzone caliper in order to get the adjustment the Echo lever gives. You know, the rim brake like adjustment as there's no reservoir like the Hope levers have. Now I'm asking myself what the better option would be. The Echo rim brake or the disc brake lever. Since Dot 5.1 isn't aggressive to the seals there shouldn't be an issue combining both. I read that the Echo Rim brake lever uses a 14mm piston while the Hope lever uses a 8mm one. Since the smaller one should have the higher hydraulic advantage, it should be less powerful than the Hope lever. What piston size do the Echo disc brake levers have?

Since I wanna ride I ordered a 175 rotor from you already. It still is annoying and the new frames show that Echo knew about this problem.

Ok so I talked to my dealer and he told me that all the frames he sold only worked with a 175mm disc.