Max F

My pair arrived yesterday. Does anybody want a review?

There are some important things you have to do, if you want to learn manuals so good that you could theoretically hold them infinitely (if the parking lot was endlessly long and your legs wouldn't get tired ) 1. The first thing I figured out when learning them was that you have to look where you're going. (especially DON'T look on your bike!) In the beginning you will most likely roll where you look. 2. Don't use your rear brake for balancing, just use it to get the front back down if you would fall over on your back.. like a safety brake 3. Once you can pull the front up properly, start focusing on balancing left and right with your knees (not bars). It's important to learn that before you try to hold them as long as possible, because you would fall either left or right all the time. Get your knees out to the sides pretty far, the wider you have them, the easier it is to balance. 4. When you can balance left and right, start trying to cover certain distances. E.g. from a line in the parking lot to a gully cover. Just do that with longer and longer distances or whatever is fun to you and you will get better and better and start to control where you're going.. it just takes it's time. Do not try to learn them when it's windy... wind is your worst enemy when manualing You will also feel your balance point getting lower and lower the more you improve.. Your final balance point will be pretty low.. I even sometimes touch my back wheel with my butt while balancing.. and it like brakes the rear and lowers the front.. not cool but happens sometimes If you want to know what the balance point should look like, just watch chad kerley... probably the most perfect manuals technique you'll see. Ali C and Danny Mac are perfect examples too. This is the WRONG technique for balancing longer and it also doesn't look so good: Have Fun

Ok, thanks, that sounds nice Already out of stock at tarty..

Really good points, Mark.. the quality should be superb.. but the question is, if the quality is noticeable when you ride them. I need a new pair of tyres and I'm really interested in how they feel.. aaand have a little tartybikes voucher. So, I'll try them out, I think. Will be fun anyway. Does anybody of you know how fast they wear down compared to Holy Rollers?

What should make them worth buying one for more than two Holy Rollers cost? (about £24 in germany) Are they sooooo much better or more durable? I found Holy Rollers already are amazingly grippy for street riding.. and they're lighter too.

Thanks for all these answers. As I already have some litte golden accents on my bike (saint cranks and golden brake cable hose), I'm really thinking about just buying two of the spank rims.. and they are sooo cheap won't hurt to buy two Just hope it's not too much gold for my build. I run a grinded rim setup, will I be able to grind the sidewalls to a suitable shape for the brake pads(TNN green)?

As I'll maybe need a new rear rim for my Inspired sometime soon, I'm looking for strong, not too expensive rims that can be used with a V-Brake. Black would be my preferred "colour". What would you suggest? Are the Inspired Team rims a good choice? (http://www.trialmarkt.de/Felgen/Felgen-24/Felge-24-Inspired-Team-36mm-32-Loch-schwarz::357.html) Also found this http://www.ebay.de/itm/Spank-Suborsa-Royala-Felge-gold-24-32-Loch-24-Zoll-Hammerpreis-UVP-69-90-/321396390702?ebayCategoryId=177821 pretty cheap, but are they good for street trials and V-Brake compatible? Thanks for every help.

haha I'll now give it a last try and angle the pads a bit more

I actually already did that That was just what I could imagine to cause a noise like this. So I angeled the edges but it didn't help.

This is not my video but I had similar noises on two of my disc brakes. First on a BB5 and now on a Hope Tech Trial. (on the Hope brake it's not as intense as in the video but still annoying) I already tried to fix it many times and the brake is adjusted perfectly now but the noise is still there sometimes. (If I clean the pads from brake dust it's gone for like 10 minutes until the brake is bedded in again) Does anyone know what exactly causes this kind of noise?

I will clean up the pistons and give it a bleed soon, to see if it helps. How could a bent rotor cause that problem?

The bite point of my hope tech trial brake started moving recently. It most often happens when I'm turning into a g-turn. I then just pull the lever all the way till it hits my middle finger and the bite point is somewhere there and not far away from my finger as usual. Pulling the lever a few times then moves the bite point back to where it was before. Do I need to bleed the brake? The bite point itself is still nice and hard. Thanks for every help!

Sorry that my answer comes that late. I actually just took one more link out of the chain. It doesn't even bother the tensioner, even tough the manual says I you shouldn't bend it that much. And it actually feels a lot better now, and only hits the frame (of course I have a chainstay protector on) really few times. If I'd remove that pin from the tensioner, it wouldn't work anymore, because the tensioner's arm would not lie against my frame. Works fine for me now. Maybe the chain will strech enough so I can take out another link. I can highly recommend the Rohloff tensioner. It's much better than the Trialtech one.

So you mean I should just shorten the chain to the minimum?

It's already as short as possible. :/ If I'd take out another link, the tensioner would be bend more than recommended.

I have a new Rohloff chain tensioner on my Inspired. Many people consider it as the best and strongest sprung tensioner you can get and I think it is. But even though the tension is that strong, the chain keeps hitting the frame, especially when putting the rear wheel back down after backwards nose manuals. And the noise and feeling of that is annoying me. I can easily push the chain down onto the frame with my hands and the sprung tensioner is moving just a very little bit upwards, so I think the spring could be as srong as it wants, as long as it bends just a little bit, the chain gets slack. Do I have to live with this?

Sorry, I have one more question. As I don't really know what linear cable housings are called in german, which of these is a good one? http://www.bike-components.de/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=bremszug

thanks, guys so, as I already guessed before, I'll stick with vees I just thought about the magura because hydraulic discs feel so much nicer than cable ones and because the magura pushes he pads perpendicular onto the rim surface thanks a lot

I think they are Avid SD5 And is the Shimano Carbon Booster as good as I think it is? or are there any better v-boosters?

I'm currently running a v-brake with a cheap break booster and really soft pads on a non-grinded rim on my Element. The breaking performance is good but as soon as it gets wet or dirty, the power goes down to a not trials friendly level and it also feels really stupid. I'm sick of the changing performance and want to change to a grinded setup. So, here's my simple question: What would be stronger and feel better(less finger power required and a bit of modulation), the standard v-brake with Shimano Carbon Booster and coust pads or a 2014 4 finger magura with coust pads, Evo2 Adaptor and TT booster? I really like hydraulic brakes but I don't know if a magura is that good wih the adaptors.. Also my rim walls are angled, so the v-brake slides the pads down on the rim surface instead of pushing them harder against it when pulling harder.

more teeth on the chain ring = heavier gearing (higher top speed) less teeth on the chain ring = lighter gearing (better for pedal kicks and quick acceleration) more teeth on the rear sprocket = lighter gearing less teeth on the rear sprocket = heavier gearing that easy what gearing your run depends on your riding style and your personal preference

Ich bin durchaus interessiert, obwohl ich normalerweise eher Neuteile bevorzuge. Aber ich denke, dass die Kurbel stark genug ist, um auch gebraucht noch zur Spitzenklasse zu gehören. Wie alt ist das gute Stück denn, wie stark gebraucht und wie viel soll das komplette Set mit BB kosten?

As there isn't the possibility of fitting other crank arms, I think I simply want Saints. Do my old chain ring and bash ring fit them?

After the thread for the pedals broke out of my 2012 Inspired Element's Truvativ cranks like 6 or 7 weeks ago, I fitted it back in with some super strong glue. It beared daily riding till today (somehow was even stiffer than before) but earlier tonight I found myself fakieing out with only one pedal on my bike. Because of that and that I already can feel the other crank arm's thread getting looser, I wanna change my crankset. I was thinking about getting saints because they seem to be really strong. http://www.bike24.net/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;product=11971;page=2;menu=1000,2,88;mid=2;pgc=0 Would these fit my frame, chain ring and bash ring? They are a bit expensive though, but I would spend that money for something nice that will last on my bike for a long time. So, shall I buy these or would you maybe recommend any strong crank arms that fit my BB? I will definitly not go for the Truvativ ones anymore. And a big "Hello" to everyone, I am new on the forum