DJEHB
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Posts posted by DJEHB
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On 12/3/2021 at 9:41 AM, Adam@TartyBikes said:
Yep just tape over the old hole. 6.5mm drill for the new valve (assuming presta).
Ah that's what I was hoping for, treat it like any other spoke hole.
Looking at the photo of yours it looks sealed properly. I assume once araldite applied to the join you just sand it back fairly flat?
Apologies for all the questions, I'd like to get it right first try. I think the biggest issue will be my maxxis holy rollers.
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On 11/28/2021 at 5:40 PM, Ali C said:
rimpact could make you one, I had them make me a 26" version of their plus size rim...fitted my carthy rim perfectly.
Ali just a quick one, today's the day of potential misery.. Did you also seal up the original valve hole and drill a new? As well as seal the join with araldite?
I've got everything ready to go, first attempt at getting the rimpact and tyre on went very well on the front wheel so I'm feeling hopeful.
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1 hour ago, Ali C said:
rimpact could make you one, I had them make me a 26" version of their plus size rim...fitted my carthy rim perfectly.
Thanks Ali, I’ve dropped them a message and they’re sorting me out. Top shout!
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On 27/11/2021 at 2:56 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said:
Just coming back to this Adam after a puncture today. Would you recommend either of the inserts you currently sell for a rim of this width… 48mm from memory? I’ve seen the rimpact is rated up to 30ish
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18 minutes ago, Adam@TartyBikes said:
Oh blimey, I thought I’d get away with the join and was hoping to get away with the original valve hole. That’s a bit further than I think I’m willing to go haha. Cheers Adam
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I'm now 2 rides in on the hydra, probably around 10 skips so far. Have contacted i9 to try and get some additional spings.
I swapped the grease for oil between the 2 rides, however I must've put too much oil in as was super quiet. Have now stripped it pretty dry (still a small amount of oil) and hoping that may help put a stop to the skipping also.
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20 hours ago, aener said:
I know. It sucks.
I just found out my 27th became questionable, and that really frustrated me because I was looking forward to it. Moving it to the 26th settles it though. I definitely can't make that.
Turns out you’re not alone in being unable to make it on the 26th. I’ve changed it back to original date (27th).
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These were certainly worth the wait. The noise is like ASMR, I woke up early just to turn the cranks. First ride today, hopefully no skips but just going for a potter at the skatepark to bed them in.
Edit - After a good 15 / 20 laps of the pump track I figured I'd be good to go at some trials stuff, big skip within first 5 minutes of light riding. Not sure whether to keep bedding in for longer or just double up the springs straight away.
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Nice one Flipp. That’s a shame, especially playhouse I loved that spot. And the flats were a hidden gem too.
I’ve moved the date to the 26th, hoping you can still make it?
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8 minutes ago, Daan said:
Using oil in mine. Hub did not come with any additional lubricant in the box. Got some Dumonde tech oil and grease here, seems to be in stock: https://marshguard.com/product-category/dumonde-tech/
Also using stronger springs in mine, as with the stock springs, the hub slipped occasionally under light load.
Thanks Dan! Do you have a link to the springs?
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For those who've opted to run oil rather than grease in these.. Did the hub come with oil in the box to switch out the grease? If not what oil did you go for?
The recommended 'dumonde tech freehub oil' is out of stock in the UK and wondering if there's any other alternatives. Cheers!
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Fixed thanks
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All I’d recommend with the super deluxe is to add the megneg upgrade, it transforms the mid stroke support and makes it feel much closer to a DPX2. I would personally get a DPX2 though, that’s a fairly common size you’ve got there and you can get them around £200 second hand.
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4 hours ago, Swoofty said:
I finally got around to putting my new titanium cog on my Hydra and I noticed there was some odd play in it again. I pulled the freewheel and inspected the bearings, but everything seemed fine. When I9 warrantied this hub a few months back, they sent me a full bearing set so I decided to change the hub bearings this time, even though they looked fine. Once I got one bearing out it all became clear. The axle was broken!! The axle has stops on it that sit against the bearings so even though it was broken, it wouldn't fall out. I ordered this hub as a bolt on originally and they sent me a 10mm through axle conversion in addition, possibly by accident. At any rate, I had a replacement axle on hand so in went new bearings and new axle and now, again, it feels all good.
This worries me, mine are due next week
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Leeds christmas ride - 27th December!
Granite walls @11 (right out the front of the train station). Facebook event is live in the ‘Trials Riders (UK)’ page.
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Prev E4 + V4s I have had even leak oil when upside down so am not sure how you’ve avoided that one
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3 minutes ago, Chakers1998 said:
Definitely something wrong with the front brake. I turned the bike upside down to look at how the pistons were being pushed out and retracting, and found that I couldn't push the pistons out past where they already were. I could pull the lever to the bar and it would barely move out and when I put the wheel back in the fork, the lever still pulled to the bar. This has happened twice now; first time I chalked it up to being set up poorly, but I recently bled it and the lever feel was nice and firm until I pumped the brake when the bike was upside down. There is also this weird squelch like sound coming from the lever when I pull the brake now. Have I got busted seals in the master cylinder?
Hopes don’t like operating upside down, or even being upside down at all for that matter. Could simply be down to that.
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I’m a pretty weighty guy (95-100kg) and I’m running a 180mm trial zone set up on my 26” hex. I’m using jitsie pads with a trial zone rotor and I’m finding the brake spot on, I’m actually gapping to front further than I used to on my comp bikes.
I previously had a 200mm set up (same brake, but sram rotor and normal pads) which I felt was just a bit overkill so made the switch to the above. I think the winning combination for me is to always combine new pads with a new rotor, but that’s certainly not always necessary I just rather eliminate the risk of a poor brake and get on with enjoying the riding (I’m a fussy rider and will not enjoy my bike if anything is off).
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1 hour ago, Daan said:
Depending on how aggressive a thread you're looking for, Schwalbe makes some Nobby Nics in 26x2.4 with a tan wall.
Have you run one before? Be interested to hear a trials review
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Anyone know of some decent 26" tyres that come in tan wall? I've seen Vittoria also do grey wall but seemingly only have 2.1 options.
It's for a hex, so a mix of street and trials. Currently on 2.4 holy rollers. Ideally don't want to go narrow as like the rear wheel stability.
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She’s back from the powder coaters and looking purrrdy. Put some decals on to try make it look as close to legit as possible. Few other changes:
- king headset
- hashtagg lever
- more titanium bolts
I’m now eyeing up either building a matching front pro 4 wheel, or possibly going mental and getting i9 hydras and new rims. Still need to cut the steerer also.
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Street Trials, tubes, tubeless or tube + insert?
in Trials Chat
Posted
Nice one. I'll report back my findings later today, I've always managed to get there with MTB set ups so I'm feeling hopeful.