DAB
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Posts posted by DAB
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i find it helps me alot if i turn the bars slightly towards the direction that i want to sidehop
plus even though its seriously hard i would learn to go away from the foot you have forward, and try to learn to land on both wheels because the ones where you front wheel it and then pivot on suck 
its just plain cheating 
There not cheating
you need to use to front wheel when you want go higher.. ie 4 foot or higher 
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Buy a ROHLOFF S-L-T99 TRIAL... £30... the best chain on the planet.... you no when to change it when the rollers start to crack.... takes anywhere from 1-3 years
been using them for over 5 years now and touch wood never had one snap on me yet 
If not do the norm.. lube it and look after it..
if you not using a rohloff, change it every 6 months to be on the safe side.. be warned though.. even if you change it every 6 months it might still snap... I used to use shimano chains (got given then for free) and i snapped 2 in 1 week.... then again they could last the 6 months
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The one thing you might not be told is you need to use the pedals and a small kick once you lift the front wheel so you can get the back wheel up in a straight line otherwise you can end up hopping backwards
the best thing to do is get the lift dialed first
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Leeson boosters are made to fit leeson frames... and i mean fit leeson frames as in when you phone to order one they take the frame number and make it to the bike!!!!!! I own a leeson and have upgraded from the carbon booster to the six point booster, and it's made to fit... as for the rotor, the cut outs are made to head the disc quicker and make a better bite.. the down side is that the cutouts can wear down the pads faster.. but who cares
very good rotors.. -
What the frig? I always thought you were like 14,
No offence. Sure, its never too late to start, but it this way, if you don't start you'll regret it later!
If you read my profile info it,s got my birthday on it
........ but i still look 18 so fair enough -
Who gives a f%&k......... it's not what you wear, it,s whats you do
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Been riding for almost 10 years, and i'm 28 now and still going strong.......
Go out and have some funn
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Grips are very personal, and what is good for you, everyonr else might hate..... the only way to no what grip is best for you is try grips!!!!! sound silly, buts its the only way... the only thing that i well say is, yes you will get sore hands
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Does anyone know what kind of training the pro guys do....when they ride..how often they ride...what kind of stuff they ride on ie:natural days, urban days how many times a week that kind of thing?
But more importantly what do they do WHEN they ride???
Well it might sound a bit strange..... but as often as possible and on whatever!!!!! you always need to practice the moves that your not good at.... natural/rocks is the best stuff to learn on as it's all uneven and gets you very fit and helps with the balance
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I no about 7 people with a mhz thats and they all have dented there down tube, but are still going... but on the ghz, i've ridden one, and main difference i found is that it's allot more evenly balanced (meaning it's allot easy'r to pick up off the front end) and feel allot more controlled.. almost like the leeson. (well clive did do the prototype)..
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nah, not quite.
you'll be ok
Well i am coming up for the big 1....0
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I mostly agree with that but do you not find that once you've got a technique down you don't need the power anymore.
Pigeons are a prime example of this for me, I used to have to really yank on the bike and hop really hard to get up stuff by pigeoning but as I get better at it I need to put less power in to get a up a given obstacle.
In all, good technique will win because you're using the power you have more efficiently.
Hurling yourself at stuff with reckless abandon and loads of power is a lot more fun than poncing around it though.
I think the right way to put it is, the better your technique, the more power you can use
And not all power comes from strength
F#ck me that almost sound like wisdom
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Get the set up right and they can be snappy as hell!!! but there in lies the problem, as sometimes they don't modulate very well
the other problem is that some of them use a floating caliper (as in it's mounted on two pins with rubber shim's and not bolted to the fork) and the shims b#gger up well quick..
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heya, just wondering, will cillit bang decontaminate my disk? its a degreaser so will it do the trick?
Ben
More that likely not.... the best way to decontaminate the rotor is to bin it and by a new rotor and pads!!!! if you don't want to do that, the first thing to do is get new pads, (as most of the contamination is in the pads) and put rotor on a cooker hob and heat it up so you you burn the grease and oil out of it (because the grease and oil penetrates the metal when it gets hot through riding) then let it cool naturally (so don't put it under the cold tap or it will warp) then when cool, use a wire wheel to clean the rotor and refit..... 90% of the time it won't work and the new pads you bought will be f#cked again, then it's new pads and rotor time anyway... so save time and just buy new pads and rotor, it's not worth all the f#cking about
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They do have a tpa sort of, but you need an allen key to ajust them.
The hs 11 leavers are a bit poo, but they still do the job. Maby just get one hs33 leaver for the rear brake and leave the front one as it is?
The word your missing is "TURBO"..... it's not very "TURBO" to put you hand in your pocket and get an allen key out, now is it??????
HS11 are budget brakes and if you want more power go for the HS33, (larger master piston and ally body/lever blade) and if you can get them get the 04's, as i've seen nothing but problems with the new 05's
No point just buying just levers unless your only buying one!! as a pair of levers costs as much as a complete set of brakes
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ok your opinion on this when we ride do you think it is more power or technique i know that obviously you need technique for some moves but power will also get you the same height or width
for example i am more of a powerful rider than technique
my friend gav (mad_gavo on here) is more technique
static hops i can usually gap around 6-7ft on a good day but if i but power into it i.e do a wheeliehop than and then gap straight after i gap i can gap that extra couple of inches
whats your opinion
cheers ric
Without power you have no technique, and without technique you can't get power
You have to have both, theres no way to do a big gap with out a good technique, but you still need power to pull it off!!! what i'm talking about really is you need technique to control the power.. one of the hardest moves is rockring to back wheel.. you need loads of power and a sharp technique, you can't pick one or the other
You bring up the wheeliehop, thats a technique used to get over large gaps and make it look really easy.. i use it all the time and know loads of people that can't do it because they can't get the timing right
why????????? because they don't have the power or the technique Simple.
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These brakes, there's only a 1000 made? Or are there only a 1000 GREEN ones made? I'm confused..
1000 Green ones made...
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kool and a very random thing to come with hydralics!
if anyone was going to get a pair of green hs33s i would hurry.
there are also meant to be limited edition gold ones also!
They were black with gold lever blades on the 04 brakes to match the shimano lx gold range they did in 03/04.. which was black with gold bits..
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WRONG!
That's exactly what I thought when my bike was being ghey and I argued extensively with Ko Ko about it. I ended up stripping the threads in an Azonic stem trying to tighten them enough to stop my headset coming loose but it only gave me an extra 5 minutes riding at most. I'm not sure what it is now but it can't be the stem not being tight enough.
I hate to repeat my self but i've been a bike mechanic for over 12 years and was there when the a-head set was first used, and your stem is what holds the head set together and the star nut is only there to pull it together till you tighten the stem, FACT
if you stem won't hold the headset tight, there's something wrong with it.The only exception is the head-lock system which goes through the steerer and clamps the whole thing tight, but weighs allot...
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I can pop over and sort it out for you if you ask.....
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Eddy did the design of the 26mhz and it was a very street felling bike and he is a bmx'r that rode trials, and when the 26ghz was designed it was mat who did the work and he's more of a natral rider so the geom reflicts that. the prototype was like the leeson....
The main change (apart from the geom) was no more week down tube......
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I didn't know there was any such thing as green 2004 maguras
They were called FROGS and came with a mouse mat like the magura whites.. they were nice
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Been riding 9 years and i can almost side hop 4ft on a good day, and i go to the right and i've only hit the mec about 3-4 times
the reason why!!!! because i don't think about hitting the mec!!! the more you think about something going wrong, the more likely it will go wrong.When you look at what happens when someones doing a big side hop and miss, they don't land on the mec first, normally when you get it wrong the mec is lest of you worrys, you land on the pedal or scrape it up the wall and go head fist over it and scratch the sh#t out of your forks
just ride, and if you hit the mec.. o well, sh#t happens O and watch this........
If you land on a ss chain device it can still bend and damage the frame.. it may be more out of the way but it can still be hit.... and yes i've seen it happen, the long walk of shame as some mouthy tw#t uses the classic line "gears are for quear's i've never hit my chain device" then procedes to do a side hop and get it wrong
Just ride
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soz
thats ok! your new
check the search....
Chains....
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
BMX chains are weaker than normal 8 speed chains, THATS IF YOU RUN MTB COGS.. the reason is that the bmx chains have longer pins because the plates need to be further apart the fit a thick sprocket that bmx's use, when you fit them on to a mtb sprocket, the pin bends under the pressure that trials put on them and then they fail... the smaller the pin, the less likly it is to bend... and chains normaly brake at the pin where they fail and pop out of the plate because they bend, then you end up in a hole and in pain