DAB
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Posts posted by DAB
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Morning all,
Right, I'm running a set of Echo forks, a Try-All Stem and the standard t-pro headset. Its a Star-Nut bolt I'm using to tighten up with.
Right, the problem is that I tighten my forks up (plenty of room between the top of my stem and the forks), and so I tighten it up and its fine, tighten the stem up (although bolts are f**ked and I can't tighten it too much).
I ride and after about 10 minutes it works itself loose again so I can't ride anymore. Nothing appears to be slipping out, the starnut is solid, the steerer tube is solid, and I have no idea what could be causing it, other then the stem being too lose (even though it is 'fairly' tight).
Any ideas? Its really annoying to have to stop and tighten it all up again every 10 minutes.
It won't be the star nut as all their meant for is to hold the head set together and tight till you do the stem up!!! if your headset come loose it's the stem, pure and simple... you even said it your self that the bolts are f#cked...... get new bolts or a stem
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If all you have is the axle in the hub body left... support the hub by the flange(where the spokes go through) and take the other half of the axle and place it where it snapped and give it a tap with a rubber mallet (of something simm) and the other side will fall out.. the support the bearing and tap the axle out of the bearing.. if any probs sent it to hope or go to a good bike shop..
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9 and half foot......
The trick is to get your weight on the front wheel for the first spin and when you lift the front wheel off, really flick it round(almost the same as a stand still 180), then push the back wheel down and absorb the landing like on a big drop off.. the easy way to learn is to roll in to them then spin... when you get good you can start in a track stand and do a clean 360.. the main thing you need to learn to control is the after spin, if your still spinning when you land thats when you fold wheels and eat floor
try and do a small hop when your back wheel lands, that takes some of the spin out,and learn on small walls till you get it dialed.... it's to easy to get wrong and hurt yourself off big walls.
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Safe and warm in my flat!!!! thats were my bikes live..... and got them on the house insurance, the leeson's insured at £2000 any where in world, which is nice
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Hey
I m riding a Monty 221pr 06 Front Disk
the problem is every time i take the front wheel off (held with a quick release)
and put it back on the disk rubs with the brake
i hav to keep playing around with it
and it takes hours and hours
and most of the time it still rubs
i was wondering if anyone could help me with it
thanks alot
If you keep playing around with it, it'll never settle..
take the caliper off the forks and push both pistons back in to the caliper, then make sure that the wheel is in right, then put the caliper on the disc (but not bolted to the fork) then pump the lever till you get the the normal feeling.. with the brake lever still on (so the caliper holds it self to the disc) re-shim and bolt the caliper to the fork.
When you do this the caliper should be where it wants to be and should be in the center.. as for rubbing theres not to much that you can do, as disc brakes are prone to warping and the pistons have a habit of sticking some times and need pushing back to re-center them selfs..
Hope that helps.. if not it's off to a bike shop.....
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I do light weights, ti-che and mild yoga to keep fit and toned
But my favourite past time to trials is sleeping
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Just curious of how many people are going through forks like there is no tomorrow.
I have broken 6 forks I wouldn't think that was bad going if it had been over 6 years.
But its more when I started learning trials riding it wasn't really a problem. I purchased a set of fatty-rs and they lasted around 3 years. But when I had them front wheel moves didn't seem so common.
Now forks seem to be lasting me around 4 to 6 months.
I think its amazing that they do last this long considering the amount of abuse they get.
But if this is common maybe it's time for a bigger steerer tube like on some suspension forks?
Or just heavier stronger forks that still have some flex in them so it doesn't pass the stress on to the head tube?
Fatty R's are one of the strongest forks around, and i've been using the same pair for over 4 years now, and that's using them with maguras and a disc, street and natural,
There was a point were all i did was brake forks, it's normally caused when your learning and have your front wheel up on objects and are hopping around, what happens is the forks are forced forward and then snap....
Try not to hop about so much and when you do, try and unweight the bike as to not put so much stress on the forks.. if you go to frount wheel alot when you land try and shift your weight to the bars and tuck the rear end using your feet, when you do this most of the force gets lost though you and where your not putting your weight on the rear of the bike it's not acting as a lever!!! if you see what i mean...
Have you snaped any bar's? they hurt more that your pride
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Nope it's 6 months is what the ACT advise, also you should file the stem on the edges to get shot of the burs.
The ACT are a bunch of idiots and wouldn't no a bike from there arsehole.....
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My riding buddy uses the 30" onza carbon bars on his czar, and there very stiff comfy..
Don't use xc bars as they can't take being pulled on and snap
Ps: you should change your bars every two years to be safe no matter what you ride
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I might be tempted to get up early on a sunday for a ride.......i'll check with others and let u no..
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One of the first disc brakes? No, Rock Shox were a late comer to the game. Hope had their mechanical disc out for ages and were getting into hydros, Formula had their hydros out too on the San Andreas and the like.
If I remember correctly, the Rock Shox brake was basically the same design as the AMP Research one, which had been out since the early 90s. Hayes also had a semi-hydro unit out the same time as Rock Shox.
And to think, Dave Cullian won the '93 World DH championship with XTR cantis...
I meant as one of the fist gen of disc brakes.. I had a hope mechanical and it was snappy as hell then when hope bought out the first bulb and the rear torque bar adaptor to go with the c2's, i was the envy of everyone, having front and rear discs on a trials bike
on a one of a kind s-works m2 with kona p2's... -
They were one of the first batch of disc brakes to come out in the mid ninty's
O, and they were sh#t.........
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If you don't have a booster on the front that will lead to poor braking.. and the normal, right set up and bleed..
If you get it right the front should always be more powerful the back...
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Thats not a giant team trials..........
The reason we said it would brake is because you said you had a trials frame with a triple crown fork
but the pic you have on that web site shows that the frame you have have is not a trials frame 
and yes it has trials team on it, but the geom is all wrong.. if it was a trials frame you bb would be higher and head angle would be lazy and unridable..... -
yes!!!!!!
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Let me have a look at it and i might be able to sort something out or even get you a new one as i'm a friend or the doneys and can get them cheap!!!!!
and there steel...
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Used to be called white max.... they had a trials comp and down hill ect, even kites and surfing ect, can't remember what it's called nowadays!!! don't think theres a comp anymore!!!
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narr, bmx's suck, well 20" ones do
24" or 26" bmxs/trials hybrids are where its at!
I ride a bmx as well, and as for the 24"-26" hybrids bmx/trials.........whatever
NO....
"""""""ive found high pressure to be pretty good recently, ive been running my tyres at 40 for the past few weeks and its made the streety shizzle far more fun
""""""If i'm out on a street ride a only ride about 30psi max if that.. and normal run about about 20-25psi but thats only cos from the sound of what you do, i ride a different style to you and it comes down to personal choice..
But if you think i talk shit, and never what to take anything i say seriously only lisen to one thing "TUBLESS SUCKS"
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Cheers dude , gives me somthing to look into , my only bad side at the moment is coffee
:$Coffee's ok
unless you drink more than 5 cups a day 
if you do drink lots of water to balance it out -
what goo did you use?
When I did my wheel I soulc stab it with nails and spokes and it would seal it in seconds!
I even put my lightest tyre on and whacked the wheel as hard as I could on a sharp corner, nothing happened! well, thats a lie, the rim dented a little and I ripped a knob off the tyre, but there were still no leaks.
I think it can work well for the front, but not as great on the back, the tyre roll leaks air.
BUT if its on a street bike or you like to run 50+psi then its great.
Mavic tubless seal and a latex based sealant.. sometimes it worked, most of the time not
I ride both types of trials (street and natural) and i if you run 50 psi in your tyre! whats the point!!!! ride a bmx
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Tubless is more of a gimmick for cross country!! if you want to run tubless get the right tyres, rims and valves..
The problems about thorns will still happen as i was given a mavic tubless wheel set to test when tubless was a fad 2-3 years ago.. when you get a puncture from a thorn/glass/nail your trye still goes down and you have to fix the tyre with a special patch!!! then as for trials use the rims and tyre choice for tubless is sh#t on the rear and if you dent the rim theres a chance it can leak (as i fond out on my cross country bike on a steep rocky fire trail)
Stick to tubes there's more of a choice and there easy as piss to fix
look at what you have to do to seal a bodge tubbless, then ask yourself if you want to try that out on the trail!!!!!And yes i try'd the tubbless sealing goo to stop punctures and it's crap.....
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The best excise i found for trials is ti-che for tendon strenght. a bit of yoga for flexibility and symetrics for muscle training... and drink lots of water based drinks (ie not coke)
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LMFAO there is no f**king way in this world you could of been doing such mate
1 The fork are not light, so you got to be least over the age of 18 and be built like Porter to do any tirlas move on them
2 The Giant won;t live past a 6ft drop letalone a 20ft one, your ass would be in the ground faster than the bike
3 Geo will be f**ked up for eveything, them forks are 130mm travle thus being 5'' okay, but they are tripple clamp and will be high adding silly bb rise like + 100mm i bet
4 It will die, the headtube will flare, strech and come off and you'll land flat on your face a syou have jus here...owened
I've had this frame once, fact 3 of them,
Twisted the rear triangle both seat and chainstays
Cracked it all over
Snapped the BB/CS/DT off
My advice is there shicking mate, not good for trials at all but with a single crown sus fork up too 130mm they are f**king wicked for dirt and single track use only as Rob Warner showed us all years ago when they 1st came out in MBUK!!!
Sorry man but i speak form experinces and form working in the trade!!!!!!!!!!
Pete
Saved me typing it, chears mate
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to put it simply
its trials so deal with it
in under a year
10 chain snaps of least
Snapped frame
broke rear wheel complete
chain suck
tire wear
3 new brakes
in the region of 10 new tubes
GET OVER IT AND FIX IT AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE!!!!
To sort out the chain braking... buy a rohloff trials chain there the stongest chain bar none.... and i'll swear to that....
Highest Drop Off's
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
13ft off a school roof!!!!!!
drops are boaring now..
and there's loads of threads on this.......