Gogz- Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 Yesterday I managed to brake my TPA the 1st time I have ever broken one .So has any one got a way i can bodge some kind of replacement for a TPA on a old hs33 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigamac Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 Yesterday I managed to brake my TPA the 1st time I have ever broken one .So has any one got a way i can bodge some kind of replacement for a TPA on a old hs33 .What the H33s?I have the same problem reli. =/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeroMatt Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/wiki/How_to_fix_a_broken_TPA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gogz- Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/wiki/How_to_fix_a_broken_TPAYeah sorry everyone i just saw that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lar Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 The way in that how to doesn't seem the neatest way to do it to me to be honest, if you replace the sheared bolt with another of the same thread, and cut a slot in the head so it can be used exactly as the original you still have the lovely red adjuster, and is probs more solid than the original. I'm guessing plenty people do it this way and i'm being dense? just thought i'd mention it, but feel free to shoot me down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gogz- Posted December 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 do you keep every bit of the TPA (Am I only replacing the sheared bolt).It looks as if there is 2 bits of bolt sheared off both so small it looks almost impossible to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Ah, yours has indeed sheared off.You need to discard that bit, but the rest of the bolt is stuck in the thingy.See if you can figure out a way to get it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 (edited) do you keep every bit of the TPA (Am I only replacing the sheared bolt).It looks as if there is 2 bits of bolt sheared off both so small it looks almost impossible to remove it. Keep the piece on the left, and try to get the remains on the bolt out.Find a short M5 bolt (Magura bolt size?) and then cut a slot in the head, so the 'plate' part of the Magura lever fits into it.With that done, you can now screw the bolt back into the square nut thing, and build the lever up, without anyone knowing it's bodged! EDIT: Looks like there's enough bolt sticking out to grip it with some mole grips/pliers, and just twist it out. Edited December 13, 2008 by Dan6061 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gogz- Posted December 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 woop woop I think I have fixed it now I think. (time will tell)The bit that was sticking out was to small to get pliers on so i cut a slot in the end with my dremel and wound it out.I love my dremel MWAH It makes things so easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 That DIY manual is missing one important thing, that square-ish part which the TPA adjuster sits on needs to be permanently glued into the lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gogz- Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 That DIY manual is missing one important thing, that square-ish part which the TPA adjuster sits on needs to be permanently glued into the lever.Which bit are you taking about because I haven't had to glue any thing in and it seems to work OK . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun H Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I've found bottle cage bolts (got mine from hellfrauds) are the a pretty good size, perhaps a mm or two shorter and they'd be perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lar Posted December 15, 2008 Report Share Posted December 15, 2008 (edited) Keep the piece on the left, and try to get the remains on the bolt out.Find a short M5 bolt (Magura bolt size?) and then cut a slot in the head, so the 'plate' part of the Magura lever fits into it.With that done, you can now screw the bolt back into the square nut thing, and build the lever up, without anyone knowing it's bodged! EDIT: Looks like there's enough bolt sticking out to grip it with some mole grips/pliers, and just twist it out.Yeah that's exactly what i meant but i described it less well, and for this method nothing needs to be glued anywhere as it is still working as intended, just with the bolt replaced. Edited December 15, 2008 by moonboots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted December 15, 2008 Report Share Posted December 15, 2008 Later on the bushing that holds the red TPA cap breaks perpendicular to the threads, so the TPA knob unscrews off the bolt rather than adjusting the bite point. The brake still works, but you have to pull the lever apart to make TPA adjustments, which is a bit annoying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pogo Posted December 29, 2008 Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 Hasn't anybody thought of using M5 grub screws, rather than having to glue the red plastic it just takes a 2.5 allen key to adjust it, it's a lot neater than the original and there aren't any stupidly long exposed bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shamus Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 With the TPA replacement i have, the red adjuster just popped back on, so no glue, no sign of bodging and a stronger replacement then the standard issue in the first place.I may be able to upload a few photos if it was required? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gogz- Posted December 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 Yeah i didn't have to glue the tpa back on at all it just popped back on there . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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