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Onza T-comp Problems


onzaboy09

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Hello i have an onza t-comp 09 and recently my rear wheel has started moving to the left and i have noticed that the hs33 that i have moves the frame how do i stop this? do i need a brake booster?

For the wheel make sure the cones and the bolts are tight. And for the brake flex I would recommend a booster.

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you need a booster for the frame movement. but for the wheel. if you have the original wheels, you will probably see a silver bolt. i think it needs a 17mm spanner. loosen the 15mm bolt on the outside of the frame then tighten up the silver bolt. if this doesn't work you might need to grease or get new bearings

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thanks for the help i will defo get a booster but should i get 2-bolt or 4-bolt?

I'd say get a 2-bolt. The 4-bolts are a pain to set-up and quite often take away all the bite of your brake.

As I said in the other thread, I'd go for the Trialtech Sport 2-bolt booster on Tarty. It's a really good booster and is pretty cheap.

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Hello i have an onza t-comp 09 and recently my rear wheel has started moving to the left and i have noticed that the hs33 that i have moves the frame how do i stop this? do i need a brake booster?

About the wheel, do you have the Onza integrated tensioners installed and if so do you know they are correctly installed? Tighten the tensioners on each side until you have a good tension and the wheel is centered then tighten the axle bolts nice and tight. This should sort your problem. Post back if it consists to move.

i was only bumping so i could see if there was any other solutions (N)

and i can also hear a metal to metal rubbing sound does anyone know what that is, is it my chain because it is slack

please help me!!!!!!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

It is most likely your prongs. Completely set up your brake again. My guess is that your pads don't have alot of life left and your having to set the pistons really close to your rim.

Give your brake a fresh bleed. Wiki on how to do it here: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/wiki/Bleeding_Magura_brakes

Then turn your TPA all the way down and set your pads up perfectely square. Look at this if you need help: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/wiki/How_to_...p_a_Magura_HS33

If you set the pistons up as close as you can and the leverage is still coming in too far, keep turning your TPA up until it's a nice leverage. However be careful not to turn it up too much as you will jam and strip the TPA.

Hope this has helped.

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I'm not sure why you're bumping. But to your original question, it seems like you're talking about frame flex, where the power of the brake pushes the frame (where the breaks are attached) outwards. This isn't something that needs to be fixed, it happens on all bikes without a booster. A booster would make the brake a little bit more powerful as more force from the brake would be pushing against the rim rather than pushing the frame out, but don't expect it two make your brake much more powerful, as it only helps a little, however it does make the brake feel better and it's easier to control when the break is on and off.

With regards to the scraping problem, check the brakes aren't rubbing against the rim, however this'll only happen with worn down pads. And let us know if you've checked this there's no point bumping up the topic when someone has given you good info and you haven't acted on it.

If it isn't that, it could be your chain as the comp has a front free wheel which means that the chain is always moving (as opposed to normal bikes where the chain doesn't move when freewheeling) it could be slack. When the bike is stationary, you shouldn't only be able to move the chain up and down 15mm (aprox) and you shouldn't be able to hit the chainstay or any part of the frame when moving it with your hands.

Let us know. :)

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I'm not sure why you're bumping. But to your original question, it seems like you're talking about frame flex, where the power of the brake pushes the frame (where the breaks are attached) outwards. This isn't something that needs to be fixed, it happens on all bikes without a booster. A booster would make the brake a little bit more powerful as more force from the brake would be pushing against the rim rather than pushing the frame out, but don't expect it two make your brake much more powerful, as it only helps a little, however it does make the brake feel better and it's easier to control when the break is on and off.

With regards to the scraping problem, check the brakes aren't rubbing against the rim, however this'll only happen with worn down pads. And let us know if you've checked this there's no point bumping up the topic when someone has given you good info and you haven't acted on it.

If it isn't that, it could be your chain as the comp has a front free wheel which means that the chain is always moving (as opposed to normal bikes where the chain doesn't move when freewheeling) it could be slack. When the bike is stationary, you shouldn't only be able to move the chain up and down 15mm (aprox) and you shouldn't be able to hit the chainstay or any part of the frame when moving it with your hands.

Let us know. :)

The pads are basicly brand new but the chain is quite slack because one of my tensioners are broken, what tensioners/snail cams would you reccomend?

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The pads are basicly brand new but the chain is quite slack because one of my tensioners are broken, what tensioners/snail cams would you reccomend?

Well I wouldn't reccommend snail cams, they just cause problems IMO.

The Onza Comp should have the Onza integrated system, if one is broken, contact Onza/ Tarty and see if you can get another. They are WELL worth it when they are set up good. Great system. :)

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The Onza Comp should have the Onza integrated system, if one is broken, contact Onza/ Tarty and see if you can get another. They are WELL worth it when they are set up good. Great system. :)

Yeah, how exactly is it broken?

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How'd you manage that?!

You're better off just getting in touch with onza and getting one replacement bolts. (Y)

...edit, or http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...p;category_id=8

Edit again: Actually, if you just rounded off the bolt you could probably just replace the bolts at your local DIY store.

Edited by JT!
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