Soon to be Rowan Johns Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Can someone explain to me all of this do-hicky about geometry?, I am thoroughly confused.How does it help?I ride a Diamondback kabuki mono, whats the "geo" like on that?CheersAymon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben John-Hynes Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 The geometry is what makes a bike ride like it does. It's the main thing to consider when choosing a frame. It's actually pretty simple. There's:*Wheelbase- the measurement from the centre of the rear wheel axle to the centre of the front axle. Short frames are generally considered better for natural, long for street.*Bottom Bracket rise- imagine a line going from one wheel axle to the other, BB rise is the height of the centre of the BB shell above that imaginary line. Higher bb feels better on the back wheel and improves balance. Lower BB is better for 2 wheel balance and good for static moves.*Chainstay Length- centre of rear wheel axle to centre of BB shell. Longer is better for static moves but is normally worse on the rear wheel. Shorter is better on the rear wheel and makes the bike feel "flicky".*Head angle- the angle that your headtube creates with the floor, NO idea how that affects anything. ahaahthat's my view on it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve g Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 (edited) The geometry is what makes a bike ride like it does. It's the main thing to consider when choosing a frame. It's actually pretty simple. There's:*Wheelbase- the measurement from the centre of the rear wheel axle to the centre of the front axle. Short frames are generally considered better for natural, long for street.*Bottom Bracket rise- imagine a line going from one wheel axle to the other, BB rise is the height of the centre of the BB shell above that imaginary line. Higher bb feels better on the back wheel and improves balance. Lower BB is better for 2 wheel balance and good for static moves.*Chainstay Length- centre of rear wheel axle to centre of BB shell. Longer is better for static moves but is normally worse on the rear wheel. Shorter is better on the rear wheel and makes the bike feel "flicky".*Head angle- the angle that your headtube creates with the floor, NO idea how that affects anything. ahaahthat's my view on it anyway.head angle affects the position of the bars in relation to the front wheel, if its steep then the bars will be further away, and the front wheel closer to the back, and if its slack then the wheelbase will be longer, compared to how far away the bars are. so slack = short reach to bars, long wheelbase steep = long reach to bars, short wheelbase its confusing Edited November 24, 2009 by steve g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordMersey Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 The geometry is what makes a bike ride like it does. It's the main thing to consider when choosing a frame. It's actually pretty simple. There's:*Wheelbase- the measurement from the centre of the rear wheel axle to the centre of the front axle. Short frames are generally considered better for natural, long for street.*Bottom Bracket rise- imagine a line going from one wheel axle to the other, BB rise is the height of the centre of the BB shell above that imaginary line. Higher bb feels better on the back wheel and improves balance. Lower BB is better for 2 wheel balance and good for static moves.*Chainstay Length- centre of rear wheel axle to centre of BB shell. Longer is better for static moves but is normally worse on the rear wheel. Shorter is better on the rear wheel and makes the bike feel "flicky".*Head angle- the angle that your headtube creates with the floor, NO idea how that affects anything. ahaahthat's my view on it anyway.I disagree about the long frame for street I would have said short was better. But apart from that i agree with all of the above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 that comes down to your definition of street riding though, street riding for some is mostly taps, gaps and sidehops where a longer wheelbase is beenfitial. for bmxy street a shorter "flickier" is more suitable for bunnyhops and spins... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soon to be Rowan Johns Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Thanks guys, I am no longer confused - ok, maybe i am still, just a little-But it makes me feel better that, even the people that I am asking are confusing each othercheers Aymon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George.E Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 This might be the clearest way of finding outhttp://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media.php?group=guides&id=12http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media.php?group=guides&id=22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.