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Can I Use My Middleburn Cranks With A Freewheel And Bashring?


Sethgun

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So ive decided to get rid of my fourplay (well, frames, wheels, stem and risers) and use the rest of the parts i got on a new 26" limey 3! im gonna go with sone trialtech front and rear fixed hubs but want to use my exisiting middleburn isis pro trials cranks. I can remove the bashplate and chainring, but can i use a freewheel and another bashplate/ring with these cranks? Got a trialtech bb (cant rememver if its m12 or 15) and looking at the echo 108 freewheels, but def wanna run a bashring or plate. Will it work? As ive only used a free rear hub, the world of freewheels are new to me....just screws on the bb and then the bashring screws on top of that, then cranks on? my main concern is using my cranks with this setup as i REALLY wanna use my middleburns....

cheers in advance guys

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thats the thing, ive got pro 2s on my fourplay now that i wanna use, only they are both 36h and everything now for 26" rims is 32h (well the trialtech rims i want anyway). So u guys reckon a pro2trials freehub setup is better than a frewheel setup? was thinking 18-15 for the limey.......

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Trialtech rims are the same as Try-All I believe. I actually have a 36h Try-All rim here spare!

Considoring the setup you have now I'd say yeh, stick with the Pro 2, Get a Try-All rim for it and you're sorted! 18:15 should be fine, most people seem to prefer this ratio, I actually prefer it heavier than that but I've always been wierd like that.

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yeh but would a freewheel setup be bewtter than a freehub rear considering im going to a 26 now and engage quicker? One thing i hated about the fourplay setup i had was the bit of lag from pushing the pedal to actually engaging....or would that just be tension in the chain? I was using a collapse and rolhoff tensioner....

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yeh but would a freewheel setup be bewtter than a freehub rear considering im going to a 26 now and engage quicker? One thing i hated about the fourplay setup i had was the bit of lag from pushing the pedal to actually engaging....or would that just be tension in the chain? I was using a collapse and rolhoff tensioner....

The engagement on Pro2's obviously won't be as quick as any of the newer trials freewheels. It's only 48 as compared to 108 or 72. BUT, they don't have problems like most all the freewheels do. I would prefer less/no hassle and slightly worse engagement, than problems and maintenance. I don't care if it's rebuild-able, downtime is downtime. And downtime sucks. Let alone the suck factor of removing a freewheel to rebuild it. Maybe I'm just lazy. I even prefer the Hopes over Kings because Kings have maintenance, need proprietary tools to completely disassemble, the cones come loose, great hubs, but I HATE maintenance.

As for the rims...dunno what to tell you. If you're dead set on the trialtechs, no matter what anybody tells you, you've likely already made up you mind on rim choice.

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18-15 with a pro2 is like having a 57.6 click freewheel (on the front) ((15/18)*48) so you have an engagement every 6.25 degrees.

for comparison

an eno ffw offers an engagement every 5 degrees, an echo SL ffw has an engagement every 3.3 degrees...

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how then, could i run a echo sl free on the rear (with say a trieltech fixed rear) but use my middleburns? i know tnn do a 18t with integrated bashring to use with the middleburn cranks, but the freewheel on the rear isnt available in a 15. What ratio would work closest to a 18-15 if i was to use an echo sl freewheel on the rear....stay with the 23 up front?

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how then, could i run a echo sl free on the rear (with say a trieltech fixed rear) but use my middleburns? i know tnn do a 18t with integrated bashring to use with the middleburn cranks, but the freewheel on the rear isnt available in a 15. What ratio would work closest to a 18-15 if i was to use an echo sl freewheel on the rear....stay with the 23 up front?

18/15 is the same as 22/18.

18/15 is 1.2 and 22/18 is 1.222 . That's about as close as you're gonna get. 22t chain rings are everywhere so it won't be anything special and everything is off the shelf. Middleburns with a 22t ring and a Hope2 rear hub is pretty damn bombproof.

Edited by rupintart
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pro2s are good, but freewheels and threaded hubs are hassle free. it's easy to replace one or the other if something goes wrong. if you bought this it's prety heavy at 184g but you could easily cut it down to just protect where you need it most instead of 360 protection. plus if you ran a 108ep freewheel you'd have 132 effective engagements thats an engagement every 2.72 degrees, mm sharp. there's also the bonus of freewheels lasting longer on the rear since alot of the force of stamping on pedals etc is taken by the chainring and chain before it hits the freewheel.

weight weenies:

pro2 = 427g

tryall cnc hub = 183g

echo ti freewheel = 146g

(329g altogether)

thats 98g lighter... (even better when you consider the pro2 has no sprocket/spacers on it) £248

even a more budget friendly echo tr hub (193g) and tryall 108ep (179g) is 55g lighter.... £112.50

obviously you need to factor in the extra weight of more chain/bigger bash up front, and the weight not being as centered compared to FFW... i'm not ranting that out. i wrote numbers and stuff, thats good enough for 3 am

INB4 bias, i run a pro2 an i love it long time, i just wanted to add some balance after rupintart had his pro2 moment. pro2 will outlast a freewheel any day (in my opinion)

Edited by ogre
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Oh, I know the Pro2 isn't the lightest thing out there, but 98 grams of dead weight is meh. But yeah, it's always good to see both sides.

The biggest problem with threaded hubs and cranks is most people don't prep them, and/or end up stripping out the threads either from user error, or just plain shoddy quality. They are kind of a PITA to take off, you need a tool. I just like simplicity even if it is at the expense of a LITTLE weight. Now if it were like a pound or so heavier, of course I might be considering other options, but 98g is pretty insignificant in the scope of things when it comes to reliability of your drivetrain and it being the last thing on your mind.

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i'm no weight weenie, i'm with team pro2, although i wouldn't say no to an eno on the rear. coupled with a well made fixed hub, alot of them seem a little disposable. an 05 echo one, with the man-sized bolts would be nice...

Edited by ogre
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i'm no weight weenie, i'm with team pro2, although i wouldn't say no to an eno on the rear. coupled with a well made fixed hub, alot of them seem a little disposable. an 05 echo one, with the man-sized bolts would be nice...

For sure. I ALMOST built up a Philwood or Paul with a FW, but after you're all said and done, you still have the weak link of the freewheel possibly failing on you and it's about the same weight if not heavier IIRC.

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For sure. I ALMOST built up a Philwood or Paul with a FW, but after you're all said and done, you still have the weak link of the freewheel possibly failing on you and it's about the same weight if not heavier IIRC.

rear freewheel setup can be lighter depending on your choice of parts. if you keep the gear ratio the same. the advantage of free hub is that you can have a smaller sprocket on the rear. this debate will never be solved though, but i think we've highlighted the key strengths/weaknesses of each set-up? could be stuck in frequently asked questions...

also i'd trust an eno as much as a pro2.

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Personally, there're only two setups I'd really run.....rear king with Burns/echo/tryall cranks.....or Echo SL with try-all 135 rear hub and echo/tryall cranks. Rear freewheel seems a bit halfyway, the biggest advantage with FFW is moving the weight forwards away from the rear wheel.

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