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Marzocchi Bomber Resealing?


forteh

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Anyone done it or know of a guide on how to do it, also where to get seals from?

My 2001 z3 qr20s blew the seals a good while ago and its about time I got them done, wondering how hard it is to do/get new seals? Is it also worth rebushing them?

Or should I just pay the LBS to do it? :)

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A mate of mine had the same problem, couldn't find spare seals anywhere. So he rang chain reaction to see if they had any lying about and they still have some. They sent them out and he did them himself easy enough.

Any special tools needed?

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Chain reaction used to have seals for virtually every fork made by Enduro bearings. Now they only have a couple of sets for random old forks (not yours). Like BJH says - it might be worth a call.

BETD have some, don't know if they're the right size for you though. http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=368&Name=Marzocchi+Fork+Seals

Anyway, if you google Enduro fork seals you should be able to find them online somewhere. They claim to be better than OEM seals which I don't know about, but they're not really more expensive. Otherwise, see if your LBS can order some in from the distributors.

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Chain reaction used to have seals for virtually every fork made by Enduro bearings. Now they only have a couple of sets for random old forks (not yours). Like BJH says - it might be worth a call.

BETD have some, don't know if they're the right size for you though. http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=368&Name=Marzocchi+Fork+Seals

Anyway, if you google Enduro fork seals you should be able to find them online somewhere. They claim to be better than OEM seals which I don't know about, but they're not really more expensive. Otherwise, see if your LBS can order some in from the distributors.

Cheers for that, I think Ive got 30mm stanchions so those are too big :(

Enduro have some 30mm seals that should fit, only $24 aswell, however crc have 30mm seals for 16 quid, cant see it being too hard to change them :)

edit: unfortunately crc dont have any bushes in stock :(

Edited by forteh
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Do you need new bushes? Seals are easy to replace, bushes a bit more tricky (depends a lot on the fork I guess). If you're getting no major bushing problems I'd leave them alone personally.

How do you tell? Hold the fork bottoms and try to rock them back and forth independant of the uppers? I figured as Im going to be stripping the forks I may aswell overhaul all the servicables :)

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I dunno. I service my Pikes / Boxxers (admittedly, completely different forks) all the time. Lowers off, clean and new oil. Takes 10 minutes with very basic tools. Popping the seals out would only add 2 minutes to that. Whereas to replace the bushings is a lot harder, uses more specialist tools, and if you don't really need to do it, I wouldn't bother. If there is significant play in the bushings, it's probably worth it as you say. But a lot of Marz forks come with a small amount of play as standard, so there may not actually be a problem there if you get me?

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I dunno. I service my Pikes / Boxxers (admittedly, completely different forks) all the time. Lowers off, clean and new oil. Takes 10 minutes with very basic tools. Popping the seals out would only add 2 minutes to that. Whereas to replace the bushings is a lot harder, uses more specialist tools, and if you don't really need to do it, I wouldn't bother. If there is significant play in the bushings, it's probably worth it as you say. But a lot of Marz forks come with a small amount of play as standard, so there may not actually be a problem there if you get me?

I had a grasp and a wiggle and couldnt feel any play, they feel solid still and never clunk or anything else untoward, just not got a lot of oil in right now :D

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I dunno. I service my Pikes / Boxxers (admittedly, completely different forks) all the time. Lowers off, clean and new oil. Takes 10 minutes with very basic tools. Popping the seals out would only add 2 minutes to that. Whereas to replace the bushings is a lot harder, uses more specialist tools, and if you don't really need to do it, I wouldn't bother. If there is significant play in the bushings, it's probably worth it as you say. But a lot of Marz forks come with a small amount of play as standard, so there may not actually be a problem there if you get me?

Tom, how hard are Pikes to service?

Might have a clean of mine im used to moto forks but not tried delecate mtb forks yet. Special oil? Any special tools? dont supose you could give a few hints how to drop the lowers out?

Sorry for hijacking :)

max

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Tom, how hard are Pikes to service?

Might have a clean of mine im used to moto forks but not tried delecate mtb forks yet. Special oil? Any special tools? dont supose you could give a few hints how to drop the lowers out?

Sorry for hijacking :)

max

Real easy. At least, to change the bath oil it is. The spring / air mechanism and the damping can all be got at fairly simply as well, but you don't need to mess with that routinely. I do it with the forks still on bike, in workstand (forks pointing upwards at 45 degrees). Take the brake off, that's all you need to do.

Tools:

5mm allen key

Soft mallet / hammer + block of wood

A clean rag

Some new oil.

Pull the rebound (red) adjuster out. Undo the bolts at the bottom of each leg a few turns. Give them both a medium-firm whack with mallet (this loosens the lowers/uppers press fit). Unscrew bolts all the way and pull the lowers off. Give everything a good clean. If you're feeling clever you can use isopropyl alcohol and clean everything perfectly, but I just go with a quick once-over with the rag. Refill with oil. 15ml of 15wt into each leg. I've been using 10wt because that's all I have. also works fine. The video below explains the best way to do this so the oil gets to the right places. Replace the bolts (don't overtighten!) and red adjuster. That's it.

Have a watch of this video. It's for Boxxers but they're basically identical for this type of service.

http://dirt.mpora.com/news/how-to-maintain-your-boxxer-forks.html

The only thing to watch out for is that pressed into the inside base of the lowers, there's a little rubber donut-shaped disc to seal them. If you knock that out from position it's a bit of a pain to get it to sit back down where it should go. As far as I can work out, if you can't get it back you lose a tiny amount of oil over several months out of the bottom of the lowers. I ran mine for ages like this before I realised the problem. Doesn't seem to affect performance at all, mind.

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