forteh

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forteh last won the day on September 23

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About forteh

  • Rank
    mr titanium
  • Birthday 05/21/79

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    fortyone30@hotmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    staffordshire

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
    Staffordshire
  • Real Name
    Ed Emuss
  • Bike Ridden
    Stock
  • Quick Spec
    Triton DeemaIntense 5.5 Santa Cruz Chameleon Standard STA CCM 640e Supermoto
  • Country
    United Kingdom

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  1. With the light grind (literally tickling the room with a 1mm cutting disk) my heatsinks are pretty horrific noise wise but bite and hold is incredible. I use a bb7 up front to deal with hills and quiet speed control.
  2. Heatsink yellows* or whites* on a smooth rim work very well when dry, put a light grind on there and you have a 100% all weather brake. *I'm old and out of touch with this trials lark and there might be 1000 other pads on the market now but they're absolutely superb. The way I was taught back in '99ish was to turn circles with the handlebars as you do tiny hops on the rear wheel. Best to be comfortable with being up on the balance point and stationary on the rear wheel, the more vertical you can get the bike the easier it is, keep your elbows bent and the bars as close to your chest as you can; ideally you want to be able to support near to 100% of your weight on the pedals alone, this allows your arms to give the turning input. To turn clockwise flick the bars clockwise as you hop and vice versa, note that the hop is more controlled if it's without any pedal input, all of the movement should initially come from your hips and pedal input can come later when you're more familiar with the basics
  3. I'm the wrong side of 40 now (only by 5 months mind) and I must admit that I've not ridden the trials bike in anger for far too long, got to be 5-6 years easily. I don't think I would have any issues with riding multiple times a week (assuming there was time to do so) once the base level muscle fitness had returned but it wouldn't be close to the 4-5 hours a day I used to ride in my 20s. Didn't @Stan Shaw used to state that riding pure/natural trials was one of the biggest calorie burners?
  4. From what I've read it's all in the prep work, which is why I'll be paying someone else with experience to do it
  5. Ghillie suit, they never see him there!
  6. Yup, all the better to hide minor issues with bodywork
  7. I should point out that I have never dented a vehicle before, just I don't bother to find time to keep it washed and paint protected as best I could do Raptor is pretty much indestructable so I can happily scrub the van down with a yard broom and a bucket of soapy water when it needs cleaning
  8. Raptor suits my regime of car bodywork care, in otherwords it doesn't get much care It will cover the previous owner decal marks and eliminate the need to care for the paint with regards to scratches and scuffs. I can push 1 out with my fingers but it pops back in, might just cut a chunk of wood that I can bond and wedge in (its behind an open internal rib) which will make it spot on. I'm going to see if the local shop can pull them mostly out but I'm not expecting it to be within budget, it's always worth exploring all options, not ruled out a new door but this one is completely rot free and sound apart from the dents. Are the PDR glue tabs flexible? Any mileage in making a set of nylon/steel plates up at work that I can stick on and use rods/slidehammer to manipulate the steel? In all honesty I would prefer to not have to filler it so PDR would be ideal but I'm under no illusions that getting it perfect will be nigh on impossible
  9. A replacement door starts at 200 quid which would then need paint (admittedly if we're raptor coating this is a moot point). Pictures are in order:- Back half of the door, accessible from inside so should push out fine with some tapping. Front edge of door by filler cap, blind so no tapping it out, think this is likely a filler dent. Front edge of the door partially accessible by removing the internal door handle so might tap out ok. Offside dent on a seam, think it's been previously cleaned up a little but needs attention as the paint is cracked. Not accessible as it's on an internal rib.
  10. I have looked at the PDR glue tabs but not bought any yet because too be honest I don't know if they'll do the job. The majority of the denting is within the front 10 inches of the sliding door (drivers shoulder barging the door to close it) so close to the panel edge and the door frame so might be pretty stiff. Did you just use bog standard glue and go at it with a slide hammer? Do you have any links or recommendations for the PDR kit/tabs?
  11. Well it's a perfect learning opportunity In reality beating the dents out might not work too well and it might be a case of just filling it, I'm sure someone would be able to get them out but I don't really have bodyshop kind of budget to get it 100%.
  12. Car fixing peoples I've bought me lwb merc sprinter to convert to a campervan, it's a 14 plate with 228k on the clocks, ex-courier so some minor bumps, mainly to the sliding door. We're eventually planning on getting it raptor coated when funds allow, but in the mean time I would like to try to pull/smooth over the dents and then make it look about the right colour. I'm not hugely precious about the paintwork so a decent enough rattlecan over the top would be sufficient till we can raptor it. Who can offer advice, or indeed, is anyone local good at straightening out minor push in dents and fancies a bit of playing in return for biscuits and perhaps half a mars bar? Not looking at @dann2707 or @Tom Booth honest
  13. Was this pointed at me? The race was good, bloody hard work and highlighted a load of issues with the car! Good points: - It didn't fall apart or need any actual maintenance during the 7 hours driving. It handles really well, steers straight hands free and grip in abundance with minimal effort on the steering. It was pretty comfy. Bad points: - It's heavy, the plan is to run the chassis through fea in solidworks and introduce speedholes. There's too much rolling resistance, I think it's the constantly running final chain and rear axle bearing alignment. It's sitting very high, aerodynamically it's a snail, that didn't affect us at the speeds we were travelling but if we are aiming to get faster then it needs addressing now. The lack of differential wasn't a huge issue with scrubbing tyres, however I think it was killing our corner speeds as momentum seems to be everything. Looking to split the rear axle and have a twin freewheel setup or design a ball differential to go in there. When out on track it was a constant push just to keep it up to speed and us being middleaged unfit blokes it was ok for the first 10 mins then fatigue set in quite quickly. Out of 21 teams, we came 15th with 222 laps completed, fastest lap was 86 seconds @ 15mph, average speed over the 7 hours was 12mph. For reference, the winning teams fastest lap was 55 seconds I had a quick play in the winning car and it was an absolute weapon, so very quick and light I bet you could built an awesome car, give us a yell if you want to bounce ideas around. edit: on the winning team, one of the drivers commutes 400 miles a week on his recumbent bike, he was pushing 30-40 minutes sessions at a constant 90rpm cadence. Once he was done bombing round the track all day long he then went and cycled 35km home in the dark
  14. Have you tried turning it off and back on again taking it out and putting it back in again?
  15. Been trying to work out how to best tension the final drive chain - 3.5m long run of single speed chain running on fixed sprockets so constantly running. Tried using an old mech to tension it but the self weight of the chain was too great, it slapped, jumped off and tore the mech to pieces. I've rigged up a ghost sprocket from an old chainwheel and mrp system1 sideplates but because of the length of chain it's rather mobile (although very secure). Was messing about with different sprocket positions last night and then realised that we have slotted dropouts at the front for the jackdrive hub, undo QR, pull hub forwards to tension chain, tighten QR; a rather simpler solution compared to what I was looking at! Only problem with this was that the rear fixed sprocket is sandwiched between two half axles and was running eccentric by a couple of mm, enough to make the chain slappy. Stripped the axle out at 11 last night and jumped on the lathe at work at lunchtime. Now have spigots and registers machined onto the shafts so it should all be nice and circular now Ought to try to knock up some bodywork!