Hydro Discs - Good Or Bad?

[Aii_Aitch]

So basically, I've had so many mixed responses about discs that I really don't know what I should think about them. I'm building a mod at the moment, and i was planning on running dual discs, but my excitement about buying them has rapidly decreased...

It seems that whenever I search for old threads about hydraulic disc brakes, I find that three or four of the posters will say that they have hopes up front and they're amazing - but then there'll be a couple who really disagree (espec. with hopes). So my conclusion is that overall hydraulics aren't worth the money.

But my HS33s are awesome. I've never had any trouble that wasn't my fault, and 99% of threads i've read agree with that. But what really is there to go wrong? They both use hydraulic fluid to move callipers - so why no hate for rims, and loads for discs?

I know there's the whole contamination kerfuffle - but you can sort that out with meths (i have in the past)?

Which hydraulic discs have the best hold, and which mechanical ones for the same?

Edited April 4, 2012 by Aii_Aitch

[Luke Rainbird]

Mechanical discs are a much simpler way of doing the same job - they're pretty crude but in terms of plain, simple, unrefined brute force they do the job just fine and being so straightforward they're not hard to work out and maintain.

Hydraulic discs are obviously a little more refined but when they're running properly (well set up etc) they're a nicer way of doing things. You get a nice mechanical advantage from properly researched piston ratios and the like, as well as a more solid feel as the fluid's incompressible (where as some cables stretch a tad introducing a little mush into the system)

The trouble seems to be that when something goes even remotely wrong people have issues. Unlike a mechanical brake, a hydro can spill fluid onto the pads/rotor and cause contamination. Whilst obviously a cabled brake can get contaminated too, it's not constantly in the vicinity of a low-viscosity oil so it's less likely.

Slight leaks also occur only with hydraulic brakes, be it from worn seals, split hoses or whatever. This deteriorates performance and most people are either too lazy or too inept to sort it out.

I (fairly) recently received a pair of Hope brakes in a trade and the previous owner hadn't looked after them at all which led to shocking performance. A bit of tweaking and they'll be good as new, though I've since upgraded so will only be sorting them in order to sell the pair now!

Take care of a hydraulic brake and it'll take care of you.

Treat it like 75% of people on here seem to treat theirs and it's a whole other ball game.

[How Original]

I've been using a Hope Mono 6-Ti for about 4 years now, it's never been bled, never had a change of pads (actually just in the process of doing it's first bleed and pad change today) and it has never missed a beat, it's had water on it, WD40, dust, all sorts, and it's never once not worked, the only reason I'm changing the pads is to try a different compound to see what they are like.

I'd highly recommend this brake myself.

[Matt Vandart]

I agree with Luke basically except its not just people that dont look after them that they f**k up on.

It also only seems to be hope brakes also.

Fit a set of shimanos or formula and you can pretty much forget them, not true with hopes, they leak and thats the end of it.

Some hope callipers also spread rather readily making the 'feel' mushy feel after a while.

Bleeding is a pain in the arse, I don't care what anyone says, I can do it very quickly and efficiently but still find it a a pain in the arse.

The only hopes I have found to be really good are hopetech levers and v2's. The levers are worth it for the adjustment and the callipers seem to be better, I'm not sure If I just got a good set but they seem cool.

Avid cable brakes on the other hand are amazing, the bite and hold is far superior to hope, they don't leak, mine don't feel mushy and they are getting on for a year old with the same cables.

You can get a full avid bb7 set up for less than one hope brake.

[dezmtber]

i have prety much seen it all with brakes. ( been a bike mechanic for 8 years now)

old hopes you should steer clear of they are not powerfull enough.

the tech trials are spot on

the trialzone brakes are also very good (i use them)

the new shimano deore discs are also very bloody good

cable brakes: avid mechanical brakes are the best imo.

hs33 or hs11 work fine for most of us really, you will only notice a big difference in the wet.

pros and cons:

hydro disc pros, power in the wet, pads last longer,

hydro disc cons,its very easy to contaminate the pads with chain oil or spray oils

if you have a seal go or a leak from the connetors it can ruin the pads.

mecanical disc pros, power in the wet, pads last longer

mechanical disc cons, you can contaimainate the pads with oil, cabels can snap (very rare)

old cables cause friction losing power.

hs33 pros, great hold in the dry, a good sharp lever feel

hs33 cons, the levers are can break commonly 2005 model, you ware out rims and they cost u dollar brake pads ware quicker.

costs:

hydros front and rear £180 deore, £340 hope rrp + 1year pads £30 bent disc x1 £25

mechanical £165 avid mechanical rrp +1year pads £30 bent disc x1 £25

hs33 £160 rrp + 1year pads replaced 3 times and one rim (if using grind) £130 pads at £15 per set front and rear

listed as they cost you

avid mechanical 1 year use total £220

shimano deore 1year use total £235

hs33 1 year use total £290

Hope trial 1 year use total £395

i hope these figures help you see which is the best value for you, u also will need to consider if you dont have disc hubs or disc tabs on your frame its just not cost effective to do the upgrade to discs till you have upgraded these 1st.

[Aii_Aitch]

I've been using a Hope Mono 6-Ti for about 4 years now, it's never been bled, never had a change of pads (actually just in the process of doing it's first bleed and pad change today) and it has never missed a beat, it's had water on it, WD40, dust, all sorts, and it's never once not worked, the only reason I'm changing the pads is to try a different compound to see what they are like.

I'd highly recommend this brake myself.

Okay. I've just had a look at the calliper design & it has 6 pistons. I guess that's what gives its all-round power? Pretty brake, too. Very tempted to put this on the front of my Zoot until I finish the build.

the tech trials are spot on

the trialzone brakes are also very good (i use them)

the new shimano deore discs are also very bloody good

cable brakes: avid mechanical brakes are the best imo.

pros and cons:

hydro disc pros: power in the wet, pads last longer,

hydro disc cons: its very easy to contaminate the pads with chain oil or spray oils

if you have a seal go or a leak from the connetors it can ruin the pads.

mechanical disc pros, power in the wet, pads last longer

mechanical disc cons, you can contaimainate the pads with oil, cabels can snap (very rare)

old cables cause friction losing power.

costs:

avid mechanical 1 year use total £220

shimano deore 1year use total £235

hs33 1 year use total £290

Hope trial 1 year use total £395

From the sound of this, I should get a cable running up front and a hydro on the rear to obtain maximum power to the calliper?

I've looked at the shimano brakes too, and they have had so many good reviews. I guess I shouldn't really complain about weight until I can actually ride well - especially as I ride heavy onzas rn.

Thanks, I feel a lot more informed now.