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110mm Hubs On Stocks


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Wouldnt there be a greater amount of force put on what really isnt a 135mm hub? So if it was bodged then the force would be put against what isnt a solid and uniform axle, but something thats built up fo different, not entirely secure parts?

I think todge broke a profile when he ran it on his echo... might be wrong though, i've definately seen someones profile that was used on a stock and the driveside flange was ripped from the rest of the hubshell.

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If his flange ripped off it had nothing to do with it being a BMX width hub. The only thing that should have any extra stress put on it is the axel either where it is covered by spacers on a nutted axle, or the bolts and where the bolts go into the hub on a bolted one. Know of a few people doing it with other BMX hubs on jump bikes and its been fine, bunno about a king on a trials bike though.

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If his flange ripped off it had nothing to do with it being a BMX width hub. The only thing that should have any extra stress put on it is the axel either where it is covered by spacers on a nutted axle, or the bolts and where the bolts go into the hub on a bolted one. Know of a few people doing it with other BMX hubs on jump bikes and its been fine, bunno about a king on a trials bike though.

And what about when you gap?

The freehub is enaged and what is it pressing against?.... the hub shell. So with a wider wheel diameter its going to be harder to turn the wheel round (the larger rim will act as a bigger resistive lever against the freehub) so all the force will be applied into turning the right hand side of the wheel more than the left due to the freehub being on this side so the right hand side of the hub has more force put on it and is then twisted with more force than its designed to, resulting in a seperation of the right hand side of the hub from the left via a split all the way along the base of the flange on the right hand centre of the hub.

Theres also the chainline to think about, wont it be quite out if your using a bmx single speed hub?

EDIT: If you dont get how i mean it to have broken here's the topic and the pictures of it http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....&hl=profile

Edited by Krisboats
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I hope you mean 165mm..

Isn't 110mm for front hubs? :ermm:

Your mod bike should have 116mm dopouts if i'm not mistaken ;) 110mm axle length, then 3mm each side for snail cams..... 165mm is bigger than most DH bikes with super wide rear triangles.

Another debate on the matter

Edited by Krisboats
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I get what you're saying, but thats not really a problem with using them in wider dropouts really is it. Thats caused by the larger wheel, so all these mod 26" bikes are gunna be screwed according to what you're saying. What about 135mm spaced profiles then? did they beef up the hub body to handle the extra torque?

Id have thought that if the hub body it's self cant handle the extra torque, thats more of a problem with the hub design than the wheel size isn't it?

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And what about when you gap?

[...]

That's all very logical, but is it really the case? I don't know how Todge rides, but ie. CLS must put more stress on his hub than Todge? This could also be the fault of a bad wheelbuild, and the spoke tension and drive spokes being all wrong. But if you're right, this should not be the problem as my BMX hub has an ISO Disc shell.

Another thing I though of when I read your post was gaps. When you gap, the chain pulls the hub towards the bb. Normally the chainring is very close to the frame so there is less leverage. But when there are lots of spacers, there is much more leverage as the chainring is far away from the frame.

Looks like it's not a good idea at all.

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If you're worried about the problem described about the drive side flange having more stress on it when gaping then get the wheel built with radial lacing on the non-drive side, so that the only side receiving/giving rotational force is the drive side, isolating the force, and stopping the problem. But the Problem would be reduced on a king anyway, as the drive is transmitted to near enough the center of the hub, due to not using the traditional pawl/ratchet drive system, so the force would be more spread over the 2 flanges.

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