Setting Up A Rohloff With Limey Frame

[John planet x]

Ok here is my set up:

Frame: Limey

Back wheel : Full chris king HD spaced on old cassetee spacers +14t cog

Cranks: Middleburn n Ti bash ring + 16t cog (square taper)

Chain: KMC Kool fat one

BB: Shimano , some long one.

Right, well i baught this thinking it'd solve my problems, guess not. Firstly i tried to set it up on the outside of the hanger, but the tensioner doesnt go far enough in to get anywhere near the rear 14t cog. If i move the cog so that it is inline with the tensioner , then both the tensioner and rear cog are majorly out of line with the front (obvious problems).

So then i tried to mount it on the inside, yeah i could get it in line but when i put wheen on everything rubbed off the spacers and the wheel didnt wanna move.

Getting despaterate now, have even been thinking of getting rid of this curse and going 20", but i'll prolly even get problems with them!

Help !?

[Heatsink]

If you mount the tensioner on without any of the mech hanger bolt spacers, how far out is it compared to the chainline from the front?

To put a figure on the chainline position, calculate the distance from the centreline running through the frame, centre of BB, centre of hub. A few measurements will give you a meaningful answer.

Assuming the rear sprocket position will be dictated by the limit of the (unmodified) tensioner, there is the option of using 2.5mm spacers between the driveside BB flange and the BB shell (available from Supercycles). I'm using some on my bike to sort out the chainline. Maybe only 5mm max offset would be wise. In addition, work out what length BB axle you've got. At least with it being square taper you could possibly gain the extra front offset you need for £12 or whatever it is for a Shimano 127.5mm BB. Conversely, if the chainline needs to come in at the front, then a shorter axle BB could be used if you're sure there will be no rubbage.

In my experience it's worth taking the time to take those measurements and explore the possible solutions because once set-up (and it took me many days to get mine right, including locating some additional spacers for the rear, moving the rear sprocket around multiple times, and purchasing BB spacers) the Rohloff offers a longterm tensioning solution maintainance free.

I did find that mine won't take a chain as wide as a KMC chain though, so it's back to the SACHs one for now.

Steve

[John planet x]

Thanks for reply.

I just went out a measured it up, from the BB to the front cog its rougly 4.8cm (dont have my 6 inch rule at home). And from rear hub to tensioner jockey wheel it is 6.5cm. A fair difference. I also noticed that the plain portion of the bolt that goes into hanger is a couple of thou too big, making the whole tensioner wobble once fitted.

As for the BB, it is shimano 127mm

Edited January 4, 2007 by John planet x

[Shaun H]

Shimano BBs are offset to the non-drive side aren't they. I'd be tempted to say it's the BB that's the problem. You need to get an Echo one which is offset the other way.

[RobinJI]

Shimano BBs are offset to the non-drive side aren't they. I'd be tempted to say it's the BB that's the problem. You need to get an Echo one which is offset the other way.

Pretty sure most BB's aren't offset at all. I know I'm running a 122 shimano BB and my chain line is fine on a sprocket well within the range of a Rohloff. (ASC on a revolver which gives a pretty wide chain line). Are you sure yours is a 127.5?

The only way to get an even wider chain line safely is to use a 127.5 by 73mm bottom bracket, with 5mm of spacers on the right of your 68mm shell, moving the chain line 2.5mm to the right. You could put 2.5mm or 5mm of spacing on your 68 shell BB, but it would cause the 2 cups not to contact properly, which can lead to the axle snapping.