ezgonzo

i've never really needed a powerful brake as such, as long as stops me when i need it too and slows me down on hills then that's good enough, i would say though that the tech trial if setup right is an awesome brake, when i first got mine i ran it with standard pads and a rockman rotor which seemed to do the job, however i decided to try the pro pads and was expecting good thing's however they turned my good brake into an inconsistent and pretty shitty brake, I've now gone back to a set of standard pads and also swapped the rockman out for a mono trial rotor and it's now better than it ever was, also + 1 for the gustav m, i had one on my zhi z3 and it was beastly, but i totally agree with greetings it was either on or off there was no inbetween,

The best way i've found to remove an outer bearing race as pictured above , is to weld a couple of little blobs on the inside of the bearing race, then when the it cools down just tap the welds in the same manor as you would when removing a complete bearing, if you don't have a welder handy then like others have suggested, a bent screwdriver will eventually do the job, the only thing to make sure of when using this method is to make sure that the hub is on a nice solid surface, if you've just got the hub on your lap then pretty much all the force your generating when hitting the bearing is going to be absorbed by your legs.

what would be the average price for a custom frame?, or perhaps the min and max price that one might expect to pay, also what sort of time frame would be expected from the time of the order to the time it arrives @ the buyers doorstep?. Edit: ignore the last question, found the info on the website under terms and conditions,

yeah it's just a little ss phase unit that i built from scratch a couple of years or more ago now, -35c is the best temp she'll hit with the current refrigerant that's in it, it's currently just sat in the corner gathering dust unfortunately, i do fire her up every now and again just to move the oil round and stop the compressor from ceasing though , i must agree that a 2600k is not what most would call a downgrade, before i gave the 980x rig to my bro and got the 2600k rig i was actually considering keeping one of my rampage extremes along with a q6600 and using that for my daily rig, but unfortunately i got an offer for the rampage extreme's that was too good not to take up. here's a couple of slightly better pic's of the ss phase unit : Frosty goodness .

@ TROYston, if your using air cooling then your cpu temp will always be a few degrees above the ambient temp of the air around it, obviously the temperature differential will increase as more load is put on the cpu, even with watercooling you will never get below ambient temps, you will get slightly closer to the ambient temps when idling but wc'in is more about the load temps, also on a side note some programmes will only read and display the CPU / socket temp as opposed to the actual CPU core temps, programs like Aida64 will read and display both the CPU temp as well as the core temps. i only go by the core temps as the CPU temp is always around 10c lower because it's not actually the CPU temp it's the socket temp. I've some what drifted away from oc'in and building rig's over the last year or two, mainly due to the stupid amounts of money it was costing in order too bench the latest and greatest hardware as well as benching the older platforms, here's a pic of my desk @ the time i decided to give up benching, i've still got the silver v2000 rig on THE right, however it has now been somewhat downgraded, it was originally running the following: HARDWARE I7 980X X58X-UD7 6GB G-SKILL PII 1600MHZ CL7 AMD 6990 CORSAIR HX 1000W WD VELOCIRAPTOR 150GB / SAMSUNG F1 1TB COOLING EK HF NICKEL CPU BLOCK EK NICKEL 6990 FULL COVER BLOCK EK DUAL DDC BAY RES LAING DDC ULTRA PUMP X2 TFC 320 RAD TFC 240 RAD 7X ENERMAX CLUSTER 120MM FANS 2X ENERMAX CLUSTER 80MM FANS Now it's running the following: HARDWARE I7 2600K P67A-UD7 4GB G-SKILL RIPJAW-X 2100MHZ CL7 AMD 6970 SUPER CLOCKED CORSAIR HX 850W PNY 120GB SSD / SAMSUNG F1 1TB COOLING NOCTUA NH-D14 CPU COOLER STOCK CPU COOLER 7X ENERMAX CLUSTER 120MM FANS 2X ENERMAX CLUSTER 80MM FANS If i'm honest even though it has had a downgrade there's no real difference in performance, even in games it still does me proud compared to the old rig that was in it,

Trialtech SL ( 130 x25 ) with 10 - 20mm of stem stackers if your steerer's long enough, with it being a silver stem it would look beastly on that frame.

I'm running a tech on the front of my fourplay, i've only ever bleed it the good old fashoined way, never needed to use the quick bleed screw as it's always bleed fine, i have noticed though that the tech does'nt quite have the same solid feel that the mono's did, but it still has a nice feel have you made doubly sure that the pads are perfectly central and that the caliper/pads are also 100% in line with the disk, even being slightly on the piss will lead to a spongy brake

as above, in this instance tensile bracing would not be the best option due to both the sides being equal in length, however tensile bracing could be used if the hinged beam was say 50% higher, that way you could fix the diaganol above point A and down to point C, thus eliminating the pivot points.

B to C, however it's all dependent on the size of gate, one diagonal may not be suffecient.

As other's have suggested there's numerous ways of removing and fitting headsets, all of the above suggestions will do the job fine, some better than other's. Here's a couple of tools i knocked up @ work when i had a spare five mins, Headset remover Headset press i have removed and fitted two ck headsets with the above tools and they worked a treat, not one mark was made on either headset. if you can find the materials they are well worth making.

i do plus a couple of others, mainly bournemouth but poole aswell every now and again.

mine still work ok when there wet but they do lack bite, hold is still good though, the most annoying thing is the god dam noise that they make when wet and also for quite a prolonged period after, the noise does start to fade eventually though and they do start to regain there bite,

as far as i'm aware there is currently no 4g in the uk @ the moment, not too sure when it will be utilized but hopefully it won't be too far off.

no probs , in regards to your query regarding the frequency that it should be running @, the cpu should be psychically running @ 4ghz if the right parameters have been set in the bios, basicly if it's been set to run @ 4ghz then it will run @ 4ghz, there's a little app called cpu-z, which is basically an app that displays your real time cpu frequency as well as the voltage, it also displays all sorts of other info regarding your ram, moby as well, it is quite a handy app. ez.

i'm assuming your rig is the x58 platform, if so running only five sticks would mean that your ram wouldn't be running in triple channel mode which would hurt performance, so your best options would be what JD has recommended, which is either get another set of modules the same as your running @ the moment or replace your current modules with 3x4gb modules, in regards to oc'in it all depends what your running hardware wise to be honest and also what sort of cooling you are using, this will determine roughly what you can realistically achieve using safe voltages as well as being able to keep the temps in check, it's been a while since i benched my old x58 rig but i should still be able to offer some advice in regards to what voltages and frequency's you will need to change in the bios too oc your rig, if you could post up what hardware your running that would be great. ez